The Murphy Builders Site

At 08:42 PM 7/30/2007 -0230, you wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm about ready to rivet my rear bottom skins in place on my first float

and I want to make sure that I haven't over looked anything. I have test
fitted the landing gear with the wheel and brake in place for the wheel
well doubler trimming. The gear hardware was tight and binding when first
assembled and required a fair amount of filing and deburring to free up,
but I still wonder if it's free enough ...? The cylinders are really tight
(and were tight when I first received the kit) and hard to work with. Is
this normal? Are they just dry? What type of hydraulic fluid do I use
...can't find that info anywhere ?

I read that the bottom (or all) bolts need to be greased first before

final installation. Is this grease expected to stop water from leaking
into the side wheel well compartments?

Thanks for any help.

Clay
Reb466

Hi Clay The gear should move without binding and not be too stiff. The
cylinders normally should require a lot of breakout force to get them
started moving but not be too hard to keep moving. It's known as sticktion
and is normal. I'm using automatic transmission fluid for hydraulic oil as
are most others I believe. The grease is for lubrication and corrosion
prevention I don't think it will keep out much water. On my floats I had to
get my wife to apply a large gob of sikaflex over each bolt to stop the
huge leaks I had when I first flew.
Drew



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hi clay my 2 cents worth the fluid is ATF the cylinders are tight to
begin with put all the grease you can on all the pivot points there is
always some corrosion between the steel bolts and the alloy frame as it is
always wet

the bottom bolts are critical however you will probably end up filling the
outside corner of that little compartement with Sikoflex to prevent the
ingress of water

which suspension parts are you using? pucks or springs

bob fisher rebel 342 on amphibs

----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 7:12 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions

Hi Guys,
I'm about ready to rivet my rear bottom skins in place on my first float
and I want to make sure that I haven't over looked anything. I have test
fitted the landing gear with the wheel and brake in place for the wheel
well doubler trimming. The gear hardware was tight and binding when first
assembled and required a fair amount of filing and deburring to free up,
but I still wonder if it's free enough ...? The cylinders are really
tight (and were tight when I first received the kit) and hard to work
with. Is this normal? Are they just dry? What type of hydraulic fluid
do I use ...can't find that info anywhere ?
I read that the bottom (or all) bolts need to be greased first before
final installation. Is this grease expected to stop water from leaking
into the side wheel well compartments?

Thanks for any help.

Clay
Reb466



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Hi Clay

You might want to consider putting an extra channel in the wheel wells like
Ciecl did to prevent cracking in that area.

Ray
On 7/30/2007 6:02 PM, rgfisher@zeuter.com wrote to rebel-builders:

-> hi clay my 2 cents worth the fluid is ATF the cylinders are tight to
-> begin with put all the grease you can on all the pivot points there is
-> always some corrosion between the steel bolts and the alloy frame as it is
-> always wet
->
-> the bottom bolts are critical however you will probably end up filling the
-> outside corner of that little compartement with Sikoflex to prevent the
-> ingress of water
->
-> which suspension parts are you using? pucks or springs
->
-> bob fisher rebel 342 on amphibs
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 7:12 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions
->
->
-> > Hi Guys,
-> > I'm about ready to rivet my rear bottom skins in place on my first float
-> > and I want to make sure that I haven't over looked anything. I have
test
-> > fitted the landing gear with the wheel and brake in place for the wheel
-> > well doubler trimming. The gear hardware was tight and binding when
first
-> > assembled and required a fair amount of filing and deburring to free
up,
-> > but I still wonder if it's free enough ...? The cylinders are really
-> > tight (and were tight when I first received the kit) and hard to work
-> > with. Is this normal? Are they just dry? What type of hydraulic fluid
-> > do I use ...can't find that info anywhere ?
-> > I read that the bottom (or all) bolts need to be greased first before
-> > final installation. Is this grease expected to stop water from leaking
-> > into the side wheel well compartments?
-> >
-> > Thanks for any help.
-> >
-> > Clay
-> > Reb466
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
->




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At 05:55 PM 7/31/2007 -0230, you wrote:

Thanks,
I think I'm going to start out with pucks for now only because their
available and less work. I personally believe that the springs would
provide better suspension but just don't have the time and patients to mess
with right now. Maybe later.
I did extend my FL-217stiffener right to the bottom bolt ... hope that will
do it. I plan on water operation (cottage) most of the time with the
occasional trip to a runway.
Ok, so it sounds like big gob of sealant around my bottom bolts (actually,
nuts) to get a water tight seal will be the easiest.
Another question ... what's best to use to secure the water pump out hose
clamps to bulkheads ... rivets, screws and nuts ?

Thanks for your help again. Glad your there!

Clay

Hi Clay It is absolute misery to take the gear apart with the floats
closed up and upright. Unless you're working to a deadline for getting your
floats on and in the water this season it would be a LOT easier to just
take the time and do it now. I attached my pump out hose clamps with a
3/16" screw and a lock nut but a rivet would probably work just as well.
Drew



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Thanks Drew, you've convinced me! I'll look into buying those springs and
get this mod done now while the floats are still upside down on the table.
Thanks to others (Bob and Ken) we have the spring order and thick washer mod
info.

Clay

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions

At 05:55 PM 7/31/2007 -0230, you wrote:

Thanks,
I think I'm going to start out with pucks for now only because their
available and less work. I personally believe that the springs would
provide better suspension but just don't have the time and patients to
mess
with right now. Maybe later.
I did extend my FL-217stiffener right to the bottom bolt ... hope that
will
do it. I plan on water operation (cottage) most of the time with the
occasional trip to a runway.
Ok, so it sounds like big gob of sealant around my bottom bolts (actually,
nuts) to get a water tight seal will be the easiest.
Another question ... what's best to use to secure the water pump out hose
clamps to bulkheads ... rivets, screws and nuts ?

Thanks for your help again. Glad your there!

Clay

Hi Clay It is absolute misery to take the gear apart with the floats
closed up and upright. Unless you're working to a deadline for getting
your
floats on and in the water this season it would be a LOT easier to just
take the time and do it now. I attached my pump out hose clamps with a
3/16" screw and a lock nut but a rivet would probably work just as well.
Drew



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Clay

I also want to do the Spring Mod but would like to use Titanium springs.
They wil be lighter and thinner which should give more travel. I haven't
down much research on it yet but you might be interested in looking into it.

Ray

On 8/1/2007 12:20 PM, cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Thanks Drew, you've convinced me! I'll look into buying those springs
and
-> get this mod done now while the floats are still upside down on the table.
-> Thanks to others (Bob and Ken) we have the spring order and thick
washer mod
-> info.
->
-> Clay
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:56 PM
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions
->
->
-> > At 05:55 PM 7/31/2007 -0230, you wrote:
-> >>Thanks,
-> >>I think I'm going to start out with pucks for now only because their
-> >>available and less work. I personally believe that the springs would
-> >>provide better suspension but just don't have the time and patients to
-> >>mess
-> >>with right now. Maybe later.
-> >>I did extend my FL-217stiffener right to the bottom bolt ... hope that
-> >>will
-> >>do it. I plan on water operation (cottage) most of the time with the
-> >>occasional trip to a runway.
-> >>Ok, so it sounds like big gob of sealant around my bottom bolts
(actually,
-> >>nuts) to get a water tight seal will be the easiest.
-> >>Another question ... what's best to use to secure the water pump out
hose
-> >>clamps to bulkheads ... rivets, screws and nuts ?
-> >>
-> >>Thanks for your help again. Glad your there!
-> >>
-> >>Clay
-> >
-> > Hi Clay It is absolute misery to take the gear apart with the floats
-> > closed up and upright. Unless you're working to a deadline for getting
-> > your
-> > floats on and in the water this season it would be a LOT easier to just
-> > take the time and do it now. I attached my pump out hose clamps with
a
-> > 3/16" screw and a lock nut but a rivet would probably work just as well.
-> > Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
->




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Hi Ray, I haven't ordered my springs just yet. Still need to search around
some more. I'll have to ask around about these lighter springs.
Thanks,

Clay

----- Original Message -----
From: <ray.mason@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions

Clay

I also want to do the Spring Mod but would like to use Titanium springs.
They wil be lighter and thinner which should give more travel. I haven't
down much research on it yet but you might be interested in looking into
it.

Ray

On 8/1/2007 12:20 PM, cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Thanks Drew, you've convinced me! I'll look into buying those springs
and
-> get this mod done now while the floats are still upside down on the
table.
-> Thanks to others (Bob and Ken) we have the spring order and thick
washer mod
-> info.
->
-> Clay
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:56 PM
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions
->
->
-> > At 05:55 PM 7/31/2007 -0230, you wrote:
-> >>Thanks,
-> >>I think I'm going to start out with pucks for now only because their
-> >>available and less work. I personally believe that the springs would
-> >>provide better suspension but just don't have the time and patients
to
-> >>mess
-> >>with right now. Maybe later.
-> >>I did extend my FL-217stiffener right to the bottom bolt ... hope
that
-> >>will
-> >>do it. I plan on water operation (cottage) most of the time with the
-> >>occasional trip to a runway.
-> >>Ok, so it sounds like big gob of sealant around my bottom bolts
(actually,
-> >>nuts) to get a water tight seal will be the easiest.
-> >>Another question ... what's best to use to secure the water pump out
hose
-> >>clamps to bulkheads ... rivets, screws and nuts ?
-> >>
-> >>Thanks for your help again. Glad your there!
-> >>
-> >>Clay
-> >
-> > Hi Clay It is absolute misery to take the gear apart with the floats
-> > closed up and upright. Unless you're working to a deadline for
getting
-> > your
-> > floats on and in the water this season it would be a LOT easier to
just
-> > take the time and do it now. I attached my pump out hose clamps with
a
-> > 3/16" screw and a lock nut but a rivet would probably work just as
well.
-> > Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
->




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The limiting factor for spring stroke is the length of the slot machined
in the gear not the spring itself. So unless you're planning to change the
strut for something that allows more travel the only advantage to titanium
would be making the gear a bit lighter. I suspect it would make your
wallet a lot lighter too.

Hi Ray, I haven't ordered my springs just yet. Still need to search
around some more. I'll have to ask around about these lighter springs.
Thanks,


Clay


----- Original Message -----
From: <ray.mason@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Amphib gear questions

Clay


I also want to do the Spring Mod but would like to use Titanium
springs. They wil be lighter and thinner which should give more travel.
I haven't
down much research on it yet but you might be interested in looking into
it.

Ray

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