Your following message has been delivered to the 154 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 15:45:21 on 4 Jun 2000.
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NO I have never run a fiberglass tail spring on my plane, although the AULA
rebel I completed and sold had one on it and it delaminated and trashed the
rudder this winter. I HAVE broke most other objects on these flying machines
though!!!!! I thought that was part of the game!!
Yes, I have been trying to convince most to use a 3 leaf steel trailer
spring for the tail spring. Works great, doesn't significantly straighten
out over time like the Aluminum ones did, or delaminate like the fiberglass
ones do(the AULA Rebel one had 15 hours on it, so wasn't from exposure to
the elements!) and definitely helps with the C of G!
The spring I use (mine has been on for 4 years, and gets a lot of abuse!) is
from Canadian Tire, 3 leafs X 1&3/4" wide with one end having a bolt "curl"
and the other the spring leaf just bent back (doesn't really matter as you
cut it off anyway). It is rated at 950lbs 25" long. CTC # 40-8417-6. Spring
is same thickness (at 2 leaf area) as the old Aluminum and fiberglass ones
for clamping purposes at the tail post. Looking in Princess Auto's
Catalogue page 131 spring "A" item 2080096 may work also, but I wouldn't
know for sure.
The CTC spring is fitted as follows: Cut the "curl" off as tight to the curl
as possible. This is the Attach end!
Then cut the single leaf area on the other end Flush with the second leaf.
This is the Tail Wheel end!
Then disassemble the 3 leafs so you can cut 2 inches off the 3rd spring (at
the end towards the attach end). This is necessary to clear the Rudder hinge
and safety tie bolts. Reassemble the tail spring. Position spring in holder
to mark for attach bolt location (usually just enough edge distance left on
spring to do so). Remove and drill the 3/8" attach hole. Clamp tailwheel in
place and mark/drill bolt hole to match tail wheel mounting hole. Assemble
everything after coating spring with rust inhibitor or painting. (I prefer
the rust inhibitor LP3 or similar as it will keep things from rusting
between the leafs)
I <HIGHLY RECOMMEND> the SCOTT 3200 tail wheel, using Scott's Tension Spring
kit for the steering chains. Take your bank Manager with you to purchase one
however (close to $600 U.S. for the set)!!! The MAM tailwheel is too small
for anything but pavement/hard dirt flying and the Maule tail wheels can be
a shimmy nightmare (or a casting breaking nightmare, as Angus can confirm!)
If you try to use the compression style "screen door closer" springs on the
Scott tail wheel (or any) you can not run the chains tight. If you do the
spring will bottom out and then bend/crack your tail wheel steering horns,
if you have turned one way, stop and then push opposite rudder to straighten
yourself out prior to rolling straight.
Did that help any?!?!?
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com <LisaFly99@aol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Sunday, June 04, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: Re:Tail Ski
aIn a message dated 6/3/00 9:56:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
oifa@irishfield.on.ca writes:
<< The other great benefit
of not running a tail ski is, that when you start to run out of runway you
can haul back on the stick forcing the tail wheel into the snow to use as
aboutbrake. Yes you might break the tail spring (if you use those fiberglass
ones), but it is better than taking your wings off in the trees!!!!! >>
WAYNE
Is that the voice of experience? Speaking of tail wheels are you the one
running a modified trailer spring from Prince auto? If so could I get some
installation info from you and maybe a part # for the spring. Also I'm
---------*to order a full swiveling tail wheel any one out there have any suggestions
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D.
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