The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

Mike, to confirm what Roger just said, you must "brush" the Polybrush on the
fabric as that is the only way to make it penetrate and adhere to the
polytack holding the fabric on. Basically that is the only way the polybrush
can stick to the fabric itself by working it thru with the brush to overlap
the back of the fabric. If you just sprayed on the 1st coat it would only
end up on the top surface and could peal off. The Polyspray (silver) is
recommended to be sprayed on only to achieve a smooth finish prior to finish
paint. Technically you could brush on the Polyspray but you would not get
rid of the brush marks as it dries so fast. Hence their respective names
(Polybrush/Polyspray) After the Polyspray(silver) has been applied and
normally a minimum of three coats for UV protection, you can apply various
finish paint coatings on it after it has cured. It can also be lightly
sanded to remove runs, (but recoat) On my 1st Rebel, I used Sico Acurthane
(2 part epoxy type) over the fabric with great results. I still have my test
sample frame after six years and the coating is still durable and flexible.
Best regards. Bob J Rebel 652,725,192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike,

page 26 shows how to do the 1st coat of poly brush using a paint brush,
but
it never talks about a 2nd brush coat, then latter in manual there is a
1st
and second spray coat of poly brush, do i have to spray these coats, i
dont
have spray equipment and dont want to go buy it
I don't have the PolyFiber manual in front of me but if I recall
correctly,
it calls for three coats of PolyBrush. Each coat of PolyBrush is applied
with a brush. Don't confuse PolyBrush with PolySpray. PolySpray is applied
with paint spraying equipment.

what about aluminum prep for fabric covering, manual says to clean with
acid
etch and brightener, then conversion coating, then spray with epoxy
primer,
s everone doing this or just scotch bright pads on the surface to clean it
throughly and then mek or lacquer thinner
I prepped the aluminum flaperon structure as you indicate (per the PF
manual). As I recall the PF manual says you can skip either the acid etch
or the conversion coating (I don't remember which) IF you are prepping new
aluminum surfaces. After that step I applied a couple light coats of
PolyFiber EP420/430 epoxy primer to the structure before beginning the
covering process.

Hope this helps,

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

Hi bob

Did you apply 3 coats of poly brush and brush on all 3 coats, spoke to poly
fibre and they now say to brush first coat and spray the rest

What ya think

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Johnson
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 9:01 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike, to confirm what Roger just said, you must "brush" the Polybrush on the

fabric as that is the only way to make it penetrate and adhere to the
polytack holding the fabric on. Basically that is the only way the polybrush

can stick to the fabric itself by working it thru with the brush to overlap
the back of the fabric. If you just sprayed on the 1st coat it would only
end up on the top surface and could peal off. The Polyspray (silver) is
recommended to be sprayed on only to achieve a smooth finish prior to finish

paint. Technically you could brush on the Polyspray but you would not get
rid of the brush marks as it dries so fast. Hence their respective names
(Polybrush/Polyspray) After the Polyspray(silver) has been applied and
normally a minimum of three coats for UV protection, you can apply various
finish paint coatings on it after it has cured. It can also be lightly
sanded to remove runs, (but recoat) On my 1st Rebel, I used Sico Acurthane
(2 part epoxy type) over the fabric with great results. I still have my test

sample frame after six years and the coating is still durable and flexible.
Best regards. Bob J Rebel 652,725,192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike,

page 26 shows how to do the 1st coat of poly brush using a paint brush,
but
it never talks about a 2nd brush coat, then latter in manual there is a
1st
and second spray coat of poly brush, do i have to spray these coats, i
dont
have spray equipment and dont want to go buy it
I don't have the PolyFiber manual in front of me but if I recall
correctly,
it calls for three coats of PolyBrush. Each coat of PolyBrush is applied
with a brush. Don't confuse PolyBrush with PolySpray. PolySpray is applied
with paint spraying equipment.

what about aluminum prep for fabric covering, manual says to clean with
acid
etch and brightener, then conversion coating, then spray with epoxy
primer,
s everone doing this or just scotch bright pads on the surface to clean it
throughly and then mek or lacquer thinner
I prepped the aluminum flaperon structure as you indicate (per the PF
manual). As I recall the PF manual says you can skip either the acid etch
or the conversion coating (I don't remember which) IF you are prepping new
aluminum surfaces. After that step I applied a couple light coats of
PolyFiber EP420/430 epoxy primer to the structure before beginning the
covering process.

Hope this helps,

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

On my ultralight I used 2 coats. Brushed first and sprayed second. First
coat you want the brush as it moves the liquid polybrush fully into the
weave. The second and possible third coats don't have a porous surface to
wick into and it is pretty difficult to avoid brush strokes. Can be done
to some extent, but you only get one or two strokes before it's setting up
and flow-out is nearly done. Might be more do-able with narrow chord stuff
like ailerons because you can just do front to back (chord) strokes with
hardly any overlap strokes till you get to the end of the aileron. On the
other hand, spraying with HVLP is very simple, especially if onto a
horizontal surface. Keep the pressure very low or you'll get overspray
stuff that looks like floating spider webs, and you don't want those
sticking to the just sprayed areas. BTW, I'm not sure I get why one would
do 3 coats of polybrush. Wouldn't you use 2 coats polyspray followed by
1-3 coats of polyspray (silver, UV protection, and very lightly sandable)?
-Ben/ 496R.

Hi bob

Did you apply 3 coats of poly brush and brush on all 3 coats, spoke to poly
fibre and they now say to brush first coat and spray the rest

What ya think

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Johnson
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 9:01 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike, to confirm what Roger just said, you must "brush" the Polybrush on the

fabric as that is the only way to make it penetrate and adhere to the
polytack holding the fabric on. Basically that is the only way the polybrush

can stick to the fabric itself by working it thru with the brush to overlap
the back of the fabric. If you just sprayed on the 1st coat it would only
end up on the top surface and could peal off. The Polyspray (silver) is
recommended to be sprayed on only to achieve a smooth finish prior to finish

paint. Technically you could brush on the Polyspray but you would not get
rid of the brush marks as it dries so fast. Hence their respective names
(Polybrush/Polyspray) After the Polyspray(silver) has been applied and
normally a minimum of three coats for UV protection, you can apply various
finish paint coatings on it after it has cured. It can also be lightly
sanded to remove runs, (but recoat) On my 1st Rebel, I used Sico Acurthane
(2 part epoxy type) over the fabric with great results. I still have my test

sample frame after six years and the coating is still durable and flexible.
Best regards. Bob J Rebel 652,725,192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike,

page 26 shows how to do the 1st coat of poly brush using a paint brush,
but
it never talks about a 2nd brush coat, then latter in manual there is a
1st
and second spray coat of poly brush, do i have to spray these coats, i
dont
have spray equipment and dont want to go buy it
I don't have the PolyFiber manual in front of me but if I recall
correctly,
it calls for three coats of PolyBrush. Each coat of PolyBrush is applied
with a brush. Don't confuse PolyBrush with PolySpray. PolySpray is applied
with paint spraying equipment.

what about aluminum prep for fabric covering, manual says to clean with
acid
etch and brightener, then conversion coating, then spray with epoxy
primer,
s everone doing this or just scotch bright pads on the surface to clean it
throughly and then mek or lacquer thinner
I prepped the aluminum flaperon structure as you indicate (per the PF
manual). As I recall the PF manual says you can skip either the acid etch
or the conversion coating (I don't remember which) IF you are prepping new
aluminum surfaces. After that step I applied a couple light coats of
PolyFiber EP420/430 epoxy primer to the structure before beginning the
covering process.

Hope this helps,

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

3 coats is what poly fibre says now

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
bransom@dcsol.com
Sent: July 17, 2007 2:06 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

On my ultralight I used 2 coats. Brushed first and sprayed second. First
coat you want the brush as it moves the liquid polybrush fully into the
weave. The second and possible third coats don't have a porous surface to
wick into and it is pretty difficult to avoid brush strokes. Can be done
to some extent, but you only get one or two strokes before it's setting up
and flow-out is nearly done. Might be more do-able with narrow chord stuff
like ailerons because you can just do front to back (chord) strokes with
hardly any overlap strokes till you get to the end of the aileron. On the
other hand, spraying with HVLP is very simple, especially if onto a
horizontal surface. Keep the pressure very low or you'll get overspray
stuff that looks like floating spider webs, and you don't want those
sticking to the just sprayed areas. BTW, I'm not sure I get why one would
do 3 coats of polybrush. Wouldn't you use 2 coats polyspray followed by
1-3 coats of polyspray (silver, UV protection, and very lightly sandable)?
-Ben/ 496R.

Hi bob

Did you apply 3 coats of poly brush and brush on all 3 coats, spoke to

poly

fibre and they now say to brush first coat and spray the rest

What ya think

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of

Robert

Johnson
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 9:01 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike, to confirm what Roger just said, you must "brush" the Polybrush on

the

fabric as that is the only way to make it penetrate and adhere to the
polytack holding the fabric on. Basically that is the only way the

polybrush

can stick to the fabric itself by working it thru with the brush to

overlap

the back of the fabric. If you just sprayed on the 1st coat it would only
end up on the top surface and could peal off. The Polyspray (silver) is
recommended to be sprayed on only to achieve a smooth finish prior to

finish

paint. Technically you could brush on the Polyspray but you would not get
rid of the brush marks as it dries so fast. Hence their respective names
(Polybrush/Polyspray) After the Polyspray(silver) has been applied and
normally a minimum of three coats for UV protection, you can apply various

finish paint coatings on it after it has cured. It can also be lightly
sanded to remove runs, (but recoat) On my 1st Rebel, I used Sico Acurthane

(2 part epoxy type) over the fabric with great results. I still have my

test

sample frame after six years and the coating is still durable and

flexible.

Best regards. Bob J Rebel 652,725,192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Mike,

page 26 shows how to do the 1st coat of poly brush using a paint brush,
but
it never talks about a 2nd brush coat, then latter in manual there is a
1st
and second spray coat of poly brush, do i have to spray these coats, i
dont
have spray equipment and dont want to go buy it
I don't have the PolyFiber manual in front of me but if I recall
correctly,
it calls for three coats of PolyBrush. Each coat of PolyBrush is applied
with a brush. Don't confuse PolyBrush with PolySpray. PolySpray is

applied

with paint spraying equipment.

what about aluminum prep for fabric covering, manual says to clean with
acid
etch and brightener, then conversion coating, then spray with epoxy
primer,
s everone doing this or just scotch bright pads on the surface to clean

it

throughly and then mek or lacquer thinner
I prepped the aluminum flaperon structure as you indicate (per the PF
manual). As I recall the PF manual says you can skip either the acid

etch

or the conversion coating (I don't remember which) IF you are prepping

new

aluminum surfaces. After that step I applied a couple light coats of
PolyFiber EP420/430 epoxy primer to the structure before beginning the
covering process.

Hope this helps,

Roger Hoffman
Eugene, OR USA!

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

Hi Mike: I brush on only two coats, cross brushing the 2nd and spray the
third to smooth it out. All three coats of the Polyspray are sprayed, and I
do use an HVLP spray gun which produces very little overspray. Hope this
helps. - Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike jones" <mfj@cogeco.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Hi bob
Did you apply 3 coats of poly brush and brush on all 3 coats, spoke to
poly
fibre and they now say to brush first coat and spray the rest
What ya think
mike

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm**

Thanks bob, and yes I know poly spray is sprayed

Thanks

mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Johnson
Sent: July 17, 2007 8:08 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Hi Mike: I brush on only two coats, cross brushing the 2nd and spray the
third to smooth it out. All three coats of the Polyspray are sprayed, and I
do use an HVLP spray gun which produces very little overspray. Hope this
helps. - Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike jones" <mfj@cogeco.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] re: poly fibre questions

Hi bob
Did you apply 3 coats of poly brush and brush on all 3 coats, spoke to
poly
fibre and they now say to brush first coat and spray the rest
What ya think
mike

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