[rebel-builders] fabric covering

[Ken]

I seem to recall a bit of both Mike but several cuts as I tried to avoid
too thick a buld up of fabric on the ends where they might hit the
hinges. The tape also covers the corners of course so it is pretty strong.
Ken

mike jones wrote:

Hi all



So gona do fabric this weekend, but one question, when you do curved upper
surface and then fold fabric down sides, do you cut the fabric to overlap
the edges or just fold over itself like pleats



Thanks



Mike#007

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[bransom]

From my experience covering wings on another airplane (once as new, later
after rebuild)...

I polybrushed the fabric only to the top edge of the root and end ribs, and
left the overhanging fabric untouched. Then iron the overhanging fabric,
shrinking it so that it no longer needs much (or any) folding or cutting.
This works up to a limit depending on how much curve there is at the top of
the rib. Once it is laid over with the wrinkles ironed out you can then
polybrush it down. Other tips: leave a little excess overhanging fabric
until this shrink fitting is done, so that you can cut after it is near
final size and get a straight line. Leave the last heat step (final temp)
till after polybrushing the overhang to the side.
-Ben /496R

On 6/18/2007 11:44 AM, mfj@cogeco.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

Hi all



So gona do fabric this weekend, but one question, when you do curved upper
surface and then fold fabric down sides, do you cut the fabric to overlap
the edges or just fold over itself like pleats

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[bransom]

PS: For me, if there is cutting or folding I generally would cut. This
leaves just 2 layers and they're definitely gonna stick, whereas folding
leaves 3 layers (accordion style) which is too thick and the sharp fold
needs serious coaxing to stay flat.
-Ben

On 6/19/2007 4:23 PM, bransom wrote to rebel-builders:

From my experience covering wings on another airplane (once as new, later
after rebuild)...

I polybrushed the fabric only to the top edge of the root and end ribs, and
left the overhanging fabric untouched. Then iron the overhanging fabric,
shrinking it so that it no longer needs much (or any) folding or cutting.
This works up to a limit depending on how much curve there is at the top of
the rib. Once it is laid over with the wrinkles ironed out you can then
polybrush it down. Other tips: leave a little excess overhanging fabric
until this shrink fitting is done, so that you can cut after it is near
final size and get a straight line. Leave the last heat step (final temp)
till after polybrushing the overhang to the side.
-Ben /496R

On 6/18/2007 11:44 AM, mfj@cogeco.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

Hi all



So gona do fabric this weekend, but one question, when you do curved upper
surface and then fold fabric down sides, do you cut the fabric to overlap
the edges or just fold over itself like pleats

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[Ron Shannon]

Mike,

I'd suggest you call the PolyFiber tech support folks. I found they were
very helpful.

Ron

Jones, Michael wrote:

i am having trouble with poly fibre polybrush sticking to the metal of the
ailerons, i have creaned and scuffed with wire brush but it does not seem to
stick very good, the poly fibre book says to coat all metal and wood with 2
coats of this stuff before doing anything, then the poly tach cements the
fabric to the metal

the tapes are supposed to be suck onto the fabirc with poly brush too, i
cant believe this stuff could stick toilet paper down

any help would be great, i think i may to metal and then balance the flaps,
sure would be less hassle and less poisoness

mike#007

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[Robert Johnson]

Hi Mike: If you have scuffed the metal, I have found by cleaning with
Lacquer thinner afterwards should solve your problem. I have covered two
sets of Murphy flaperons plus a complete Challenger 2 ultralight and had no
problem with the Poly tack. Note you should be coating the metal with
Polytack not Polybrush. The Poly brush is applied to the fabric after it is
stuck down and shrunk. Then the tapes can be applied with the Polybrush.
Their manual is available as a download from their web site. Bob J Rebel
192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] fabric covering

i am having trouble with poly fibre polybrush sticking to the metal of the
ailerons, i have creaned and scuffed with wire brush but it does not seem
to
stick very good, the poly fibre book says to coat all metal and wood with
2
coats of this stuff before doing anything, then the poly tach cements the
fabric to the metal

the tapes are supposed to be suck onto the fabirc with poly brush too, i
cant believe this stuff could stick toilet paper down

any help would be great, i think i may to metal and then balance the
flaps,
sure would be less hassle and less poisoness

mike#007




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[mike jones]

Hi bob

Manual from poly fibre states on page 18 to cover all wood and metal with
poly brush prior to cementing with poly tack, but going to skip this step
for areas where poly tack goes

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Johnson
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 5:04 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fabric covering

Hi Mike: If you have scuffed the metal, I have found by cleaning with
Lacquer thinner afterwards should solve your problem. I have covered two
sets of Murphy flaperons plus a complete Challenger 2 ultralight and had no
problem with the Poly tack. Note you should be coating the metal with
Polytack not Polybrush. The Poly brush is applied to the fabric after it is
stuck down and shrunk. Then the tapes can be applied with the Polybrush.
Their manual is available as a download from their web site. Bob J Rebel
192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] fabric covering

i am having trouble with poly fibre polybrush sticking to the metal of the
ailerons, i have creaned and scuffed with wire brush but it does not seem
to
stick very good, the poly fibre book says to coat all metal and wood with
2
coats of this stuff before doing anything, then the poly tach cements the
fabric to the metal

the tapes are supposed to be suck onto the fabirc with poly brush too, i
cant believe this stuff could stick toilet paper down

any help would be great, i think i may to metal and then balance the
flaps,
sure would be less hassle and less poisoness

mike#007




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