The Murphy Builders Site

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use all-metal
high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the upper
bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use all-metal
high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the upper
bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts are
semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts
in
place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86.
The
only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazine's 2007 editors' choice for best Web mail-award-winning Windows
Live Hotmail.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/ ... pcmag_0507




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Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts are
semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts in
place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86. The
only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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Jesse,

Used a screwdriver flat here too. Even though the screwdriver flat isn't
all that secure a fit to the bolt head, once the bolt head gets snug,
there's enough friction to keep it from turning.

FWIW, I'm using NAS 6604 bolts (a little lighter, stronger than AN) and
self locking high temp metal nuts (MS21046C), available from
http://www.gen-aricraft-hardware.com

Ron

Correction, they're NAS1291C nuts.

From: Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 13:48:06 -0700

Jesse,

Used a screwdriver flat here too. Even though the screwdriver flat isn't
all that secure a fit to the bolt head, once the bolt head gets snug,
there's enough friction to keep it from turning.

FWIW, I'm using NAS 6604 bolts (a little lighter, stronger than AN) and
self locking high temp metal nuts (MS21046C), available from
http://www.gen-aricraft-hardware.com

Ron




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From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 15:33:43 -0400

I used drilled bolts with castle nuts and too many washers probably because
that's the way the tri-pacer I took apart was built. A screw driver can be
used to jam the bolt head while you tighten the nut. The local maintenance
shop has been very good to me as a source for small quantities of hardware.
They charge a lot more than spruce but if I pay cash the taxes magically
dissapear plus I save on shipping and have my parts right away.

At 10:20 AM 5/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:

Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts

are

semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts

in

place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86.

The

only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

the

all-metal upper

to

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