[rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts

[Jim Cole]

Anybody heard from Bob lately - Back yet Bob???
Are we having a builders club meeting tomorrow in Brampton?

If Bob's not back I can bring some donuts.
Let me know.

Cheers
Jim
Rebel 333


On 5/26/2007 11:56 AM, "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com> wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use all-metal
high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the upper
bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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[Ken]

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use all-metal
high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the upper
bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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[Jesse Jenks]

Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts are
semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts in
place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86. The
only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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[Mike Betti]

That's how my mount was if I remember correctly, slide it off the bolts. I
think I may of just used a screwdriver blade or such and wedged it against
the flat of the bolt. It doesn't take much to hold them.
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts

Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts are
semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts
in
place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86.
The
only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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[Drew Dalgleish]

I used drilled bolts with castle nuts and too many washers probably because
that's the way the tri-pacer I took apart was built. A screw driver can be
used to jam the bolt head while you tighten the nut. The local maintenance
shop has been very good to me as a source for small quantities of hardware.
They charge a lot more than spruce but if I pay cash the taxes magically
dissapear plus I save on shipping and have my parts right away.

At 10:20 AM 5/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:

Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts are
semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts in
place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86. The
only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

I don't seem to have the correct length bolts to attach the mount to the
fus-85/86. Since I have to order some, I am wondering if I can use

all-metal

high temp lock nuts, or if I have to use drilled bolts and cotters?
The issue seems to be that there will be minimal clearance between the

upper

bolts/nuts/washers, and the inside of the cowl. I don't want to have to
stack multiple washers to align a cotter with the hole.

Thanks.
Jesse

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PC Magazine

[Ron Shannon]

Jesse,

Used a screwdriver flat here too. Even though the screwdriver flat isn't
all that secure a fit to the bolt head, once the bolt head gets snug,
there's enough friction to keep it from turning.

FWIW, I'm using NAS 6604 bolts (a little lighter, stronger than AN) and
self locking high temp metal nuts (MS21046C), available from
http://www.gen-aricraft-hardware.com

Ron




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[Ron Shannon]

Correction, they're NAS1291C nuts.

Ron Shannon wrote:

Jesse,

Used a screwdriver flat here too. Even though the screwdriver flat isn't
all that secure a fit to the bolt head, once the bolt head gets snug,
there's enough friction to keep it from turning.

FWIW, I'm using NAS 6604 bolts (a little lighter, stronger than AN) and
self locking high temp metal nuts (MS21046C), available from
http://www.gen-aricraft-hardware.com

Ron

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[Ron Shannon]

Oh geez, they are not! They're MS21043. I hate it when this happens
(foot in mouth disease).

Ron Shannon wrote:

Correction, they're NAS1291C nuts.

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[Jesse Jenks]

Thanks Ron and Mike.

From: Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 13:48:06 -0700

Jesse,

Used a screwdriver flat here too. Even though the screwdriver flat isn't
all that secure a fit to the bolt head, once the bolt head gets snug,
there's enough friction to keep it from turning.

FWIW, I'm using NAS 6604 bolts (a little lighter, stronger than AN) and
self locking high temp metal nuts (MS21046C), available from
http://www.gen-aricraft-hardware.com

Ron




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PC Magazine

[Jesse Jenks]

And Drew, Thanks!

From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 15:33:43 -0400

I used drilled bolts with castle nuts and too many washers probably because
that's the way the tri-pacer I took apart was built. A screw driver can be
used to jam the bolt head while you tighten the nut. The local maintenance
shop has been very good to me as a source for small quantities of hardware.
They charge a lot more than spruce but if I pay cash the taxes magically
dissapear plus I save on shipping and have my parts right away.

At 10:20 AM 5/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:

Thanks Ken,
Also I wanted to ask about how most people deal with the bolts once the
fus-85/86 are bolted together and riveted into the fuselage. The bolts

are

semi permanently held captive by the 3/16" bolts holding the fus-85/86
together, so if you want to remove the mount, do you just leave the bolts

in

place and pull the mount off? Also, how do you hold the bolt head while
torquing the nut? A normal open end wrench won't fit inside the fus-86.

The

only thing I can think of is to modify a wrench to fit.
Thanks again.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Engine mount bolts
Date: Sat, 26 May 2007 17:55:54 -0400

My mount bolts to the firewall with AN5 bolts with metal locknuts on the
FW side. Since the bolts don't move and are torqued tight there would
seem to be no reason to use castle nuts and cotter pins unless you
wanted to.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

the

all-metal upper

to

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