Sorry - can't get dimensions for you now ... someone will
surely beat me to it anyway...
Don't forget to add a 2" channel, or angle, all along the
bottom of the panel, tying into the door posts, with the
middle angles bridged. You need this to stiffen up the
panel, and to give you space to mount the throttle,
primer, mixture, trim switch, and maybe the key,
etc. ... The panel is just deep enough for 2 rows of
instruments, and could use some stiffening anyway.
(Angle can be 1 1/2" - 2", & up to 1/8" thick)
The panel IS part of the structure - if you just run the
throttle through the panel, and don't add the channel
& stiffeners, the fuse will flex enough that the throttle
will move in & out on rough ground ... even if you
hold it completely closed !
If you cut the instrument holes about 1/4" oversize,
and add channels to the back for stiffness, you can
mount the instruments to an .040+ panel that can float
on top of the base panel, with the instruments through
those lage holes, and the floating panel supported by
rubber shock mounts. This helps the durability of
the gyros, and makes it a LOT easier to work on the
instruments - just pull the floating panel down to get
at the connections. This is MUCH easier than trying to
crawl underneath ! :-) The left angle panel can have
a rectangle cut out - as long as the rear of the panel
is reinforced with doubler angles. This swing out panel
(on a couple of piano hinges) is great for mounting
electrical breakers & switches for easy access.
--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 13 May 2007 23:18, Rich Dodson wrote:
Gents,
Could you do me a big favor and email me the width and height of the
standard Rebel panel (all three sections)?
Thanks a bunch!
Rich
Rebel 806
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