G'day Gaz , Wayne & Everyone .....
OK ...... I finally got to go flying today - and the air was like GLASS !!!
Flew down the coast to visit Jim Stonier (a fellow Rebel builder) - and landed on his !$#%&!# bumpy cross strip ... (I'll be using the loooooong / smoother one next time ! ...
Cruising along at 105 Knots in ULTRA smooth air was a HOOT
Once I get the new spats molded up & made - (along with the tailspring shroud I'm planning to make - and the tailwheel spat I just finished) I'm hoping to pick up a few more cruise knots as well !
I'm also just putting the finishing touches to my new three bladed / ground adjustable hub - which will take my new Ozzy made Carbon Fibre blades - (l....i...k....e...... Warp Drive ones - sorta - but with HUGE blade roots - ( so they won't give up the ghost - like my original WD ones did after 5 hours !!!) and 6" wide blade faces - just like a real Sensenich profile ...
but, I digress .................
Anyway - I got to look at the stuff I resealed my new Crankshaft front seal in with - (which hasn't leaked a drop since) ....
The 2 chemicals are both made by Loctite :
The sealant is Loctite 515 "Flange Sealant / Master Gasket"
The Accelerator is Loctite 7649 (which says it's a "Primer N replacement")
The destructions say to use the 7649 to wash & prepare both surfaces - and then wipe it all off
Then it says - once they are clean , to coat both parts again with the 7649 ....
Then to coat one part with the Loctite 515 - ( but to do BOTH parts if they have "rough surfaces")
Assemble & wait 30 minutes (at room temperature) for the 515 & Accelerant to do their stuff & cure - (longer in cold conditions)
Hope this help all you leaky front seal people !
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, ... as an aside - Bob ! ......
Jim is contemplating putting the split flap system into his Rebel - I told him that most say to leave it as it is ........ as it gives MORE control overall - (and you can always to USE LESS control than is available ... but the FULL amount is there for when you really need it !)
But he'd like to talk to you & get your opinion - so I'm CCing this to Jim & you direct - so you guys can exchange e-mails & sort out what Jim needs to know
Blue Skies & Tailwinds folks !
Biggus - (he's NOT the Messiah - he's a very naughty boy !!!
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry Wright
To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] front engine seal O-320
Thanks Wayne and Biggus. Biggus, I await your comments on the sealant
you used. I have to admit that I did not live up to the requirements
described below when I replaced it the first time. Guess I should have
asked sooner. The Lycoming Plyobond adhesive will cost an arm and a leg
at Leavens I suppose.
Garry
Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Howard's seal came loose 2 years back...after a flight I could push it back
in just enough you could feel it move and it was leaking between the seal
and case..not seal and shaft. I had a guy that builds engines every day come
over and stretch a new one piece seal over the prop flange while I was away
and Howard helped him put the prop back etc so I didn't witness the work to
help you Garry. Here's some really good advise from Supercubs.org though...
In my opinion the front oil seal failed because of a poor installation and
not because of the temperature. The biggest problem is degreasing the mating
surfaces. I like the split seal because it allows the most control for
installation. Others prefer the once piece solid. Always use the Lycoming
recommended Plyobond adhesive when installing the seals. I can't over
emphasize how important it is to degrease then degrease some more. It
probably wasn't temperature that did in your seal but rather the
contamination of either the crank case or the seal. I mask off,clean, re
clean and follow the recommended installation procedure of both Lycoming and
Plyobond.
Another responder to a leaking seal...
Is the oil coming around the crank or the case? If it will not seat on the
crank you might check out the service instruction I have posted here.
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/showg ... &ppuser=58
I have solved many leaking nose seals by this method.
Not sure if these pictures are viewable for non-members but try them. Shows
a SBulleting for continentals where they get you to angle scrub the crank
surface itself with emery paper...sure would work for Lyco as well.
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/showp ... &ppuser=58
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/showp ... &ppuser=58
http://www.supercub.org/photopost/showp ... &ppuser=58
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry Wright" <
wrightdg@davincibb.net>
To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 2:17 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] front engine seal O-320
My front engine seal, the cut style, was blowing oil out last summer so
I replaced it with a non-cut type. I sealed around it with Permatex Blue
but after another 20 hours or so, it too is blowing oil out. What is the
recommended material for setting this seal in so it actually functions
properly? I suspect from the appearance of the seal that it is not fully
inserted toward the rear and this may have been caused by the blue not
being fully set before I used the engine. The front of the seal is
pretty close to the lip of its seat and I seem to remember it being
deeper when I took the other one our. ???
Garry
068R
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