[rebel-builders] Heat shield ideas?

[Ken]

Ask again next week Eddie ;)
I recently noticed that some of the fibreglass ahead of my muffler is
starting to discolor so I stuck some some aluminum tape on the nose bowl
to reflect some of the heat. After a few more flights I'll know if it is
going to stay there. Higher temp glue might be needed.
Ken

Eddie Moran wrote:

Hi,

My exhaust stack on my M14 is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas?

I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm.

Eddie Moran

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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Eddie !

You could glue on a strip of FiberFrax - it's a woven ceramic
used for heat shielding - should be used with Silica glue for
high temps. Think you can get it from Spruce ...

This stuff is used in blast furnaces !! And has been used
successfully on aluminum (!) firewalls .... It's a bit like
a very stiff cloth ...

--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 11 May 2007 22:12, Eddie Moran wrote:

Hi,

My exhaust stack on my M14 is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on
the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off
and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too
much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put
on the fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler?
Ideas?

I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power
due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200
rpm.

Eddie Moran

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[Mike Kimball]

You could try Thermo-Tec heat barrier. From Summit Racing a 12"X12" piece
is $9.95 (part number THE-13500). A 12"X24" piece is also available for
$17.95. I have some wrapped around my chromed copper radiator tubes where
they pass very close to my headers. It's self adhesive and the adhesive is
quite sticky. You might be able to simply stick it on (clean the cowl
first). Then keep an eye on it to see if it stays stuck.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Eddie
Moran
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:12 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Heat shield ideas?

Hi,

My exhaust stack on my M14 is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on
the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and
still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much.........
but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the
fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas?

I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power
due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200
rpm.

Eddie Moran


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[ray.mason]

The only thing that worked on my subie powered rebel with a muffler inside
the cowl was a stinless steel heat shield and air gap. Tried the the pad type
stuff direct on the cowl and stilled got burnt.

. On 5/11/2007 6:52 PM, mkimball@gci.net wrote to rebel-builders:

-> You could try Thermo-Tec heat barrier. From Summit Racing a 12"X12"
piece
-> is $9.95 (part number THE-13500). A 12"X24" piece is also available for
-> $17.95. I have some wrapped around my chromed copper radiator tubes
where
-> they pass very close to my headers. It's self adhesive and the adhesive is
-> quite sticky. You might be able to simply stick it on (clean the cowl
-> first). Then keep an eye on it to see if it stays stuck.
->
-> Mike
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Eddie
-> Moran
-> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:12 PM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: [rebel-builders] Heat shield ideas?
->
-> Hi,
->
-> My exhaust stack on my M14 is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling
on
-> the bottom. I see a future problem there. Yes I can cut a "little" off and
-> still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much.........
-> but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the
-> fiberglass there to keep it cool? Metal? Some type of filler? Ideas?
->
-> I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max
power
-> due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at
2200
-> rpm.
->
-> Eddie Moran




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[Ken]

I have some 0.020 aluminum heat shields with small airspaces that seem
to be standing up just fine including a large one between the muffler
and oil pan and some small ones on the engine mount tubes near the
headers to keep the paint from burning off. That is the best bet if
they can be fitted and I seem to recall that each layer of metal
generally reduces the heat by about half. Fibrefrax can take the heat
but the back side of it may still get too hot for fiberglass as
fiberglass is not great for conducting heat away. A reflecting surface
on it would improve the odds greatly which may be what the thermo-tec
pads are that Mike mentioned but the back side still needs to be able to
conduct localized heat away. If the reflecting surface is aluminum it
will also be limited by its melting temp which is not a lot more than
1000 F but I'm surprised that reflective insulated pads were not
adequate for most situations. My headers glow brightly with 820 C (1500
F) egt's which is a bit hotter than most aircooled engines. Temps are
down significantly by the time the exhaust expands into the muffler.
Ceramic exhaust pipe coatings are another way to reduce cowl temps.
Ken

ray.mason@dcsol.com wrote:

The only thing that worked on my subie powered rebel with a muffler inside
the cowl was a stinless steel heat shield and air gap. Tried the the pad type
stuff direct on the cowl and stilled got burnt.

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