"stiffner" channel between "F" and "A" along the bottom edge of Fus-24.
Manual diagrams only show one on a diagonal across the mid section of
Fus-24.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel Fuselage building tip - probably applies
to Elite as well.
Glad someone appreciates the post Rich and note that while I am sharing
some
links to pictures on my website, to help builders out, they are not for
uplink to other storage mediums other than your own computer. If I
want/wanted to upload them elsewhere I will/would do it myself. I'm
disturbed by some liberties being taken around here with privately shared
pictures and private emails lately.
It's just so much nicer to throw an already built bulkhead into place,
that
is already riveted to the right width etc. Just cut the side channels to
length and put it in place. Another thing I like to do when I cut
them.....
is too cut with an extra 3/4" of length. Then I drill, with a #11 drill,
on
the side flange's radius at the 3/4" mark and then clip the side off and
bend over what's left for built in flanges and skip the necessity of using
ST-40 angles, per the manual, to tie them in.
Also right after you are done building the bulkheads in the jig, take two
of
the square sets and do the ST-40 reinforcements to the cut out areas on
two
of them.... so that they are ready for when you are epoxy/riveting the
overlaps. These ones are for the top of "F" and it's doubler bulkhead for
the rear wing attach fittings. I also like to do the side cut outs on the
"F" bulkhead just to strengthen it up a tad more....so where the manuals
says cut 4.... cut 6 instead.... and put 4 of them on F covering the top
and
side cutouts and 2 on the other bulkheads top cut outs only.
Now a few steps before you need these bulkheads........
If you can, you should also bend up the edges of the Fus-39......... after
you have cleco'd it to "A"..... marked it for location on the outside edge
of the bent flange of the lower tailcone skin. Then remove and bend the
Fus-39 from the mark to the forward end of the sheet... about a 1/4" in
from
the edge...both sides. This will hold the Fus-39 flat and make it a lot
easier setting up the tailcone transisiton to the fus-40 and for placing
the
"F" bulkhead. I also like to continue the three crease lines from the
tailcone onto the Fus-39 to stop oil canning. I also do this onto the
Fus-40
as well and the Fus-25 to continue the side crease to the door skin which
has a crease in it....just so it looks right!
Also..when you have the carrythru cage clamped down and ready to place the
Fus-40..be sure you have centerlines drawn on everthing. Be sure to
constantly check that the cage is square to the centerline of the table.
Now
before you place that Fus-40.....Take a couple nails and drive one on each
side of the fus-39..about 4 inches back from the front edge...so they hold
the Fus-39 centered on the table...as once you place Fus-40 you can't see
the C/L anymore. The nails also mainly keep the tailcone from moving side
to
side as you attach things.
Fus-40 WILL NOT cleco to the Fus-39 as stated in the manual. You will also
most likely find that Fus-39 is about 3/4" longer than it needs to be
after
placing the rear drag brace bulkhead. I trim this off before going any
further. Fus-40 still doesn't cleco to Fus-39...there are no pre-punched
matching holes. The only way to get Fus-40 in the right place is to make
sure it's on the table centerline and then install the most forward
bulkhead
in the cabin floor. Cleco it to the Fus-26's and then move the Fus-40
until
the prepunched holes line up in the bulkhead and the fus-40. Drill and
cleco
to table AFTER making sure you have the Fus-26 area straight on the table.
This is really easy...if you c/l is right on the centerline of your table
and your table is 48" wide..then you can draw a line about 1 15/16" in on
both sides and the Fus-26's should run right along the line. Another trick
for check for straightness....take a full length of ST-31 and hold it
against the side.... from the Fus-4, across the fus-26/fus-25 and to
bulkhead A. Check this constantly and always be eye balling cabin
squareness
as you place new pieces....as it's very easy to nudge something crooked
while working in this area for a fair amount of time.
As for the CD...I'm still working on it. 758 pictures of this build up
until
this point...
http://www.irishfield.on.ca/gallery/randyfuselage3.jpg
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Dodson" <r_dodson@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:30 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel Fuselage building tip - probably
applies
to Elite as well.
Wayne,
Thanks SO much for this tip! Another reason to market your CD on the
fuse!
Rich
Rebel 806
----- Original Message ----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 1:04:42 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rebel Fuselage building tip - probably applies
to Elite as well.
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