The Murphy Builders Site

Wayne

Sounds like a good solution. Being a smartass I have brake cylinders on
all four pedals but they bleed easilly from the bottom up. I fed the
brake lines up through a tight fitting plastic conduit that goes
vertically through the 2X2 square tube. It let them come out inside the
gear fairing but now I can't pull the brake line back unless I remove
the ferrule on the end of it. Maybe another place to consider those
push loc fittings although I don't know about using them on the pedals
where there is movement....

I was thinking of the retract lines when I mentioned the ball valves.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

If I may suggest...

Take your brake lines for the floats right up to the pedal cylinders...just
like you did with your wheel gear.

When I swap gear I drain the brake lines to empty the brake pedal
cylinders..drop the floats and pull the brake line completely out..reinstall
the wheel gear with it's own brake lines right back to the pedal cylinders
and refill from the bottom. No joining mid line to add an air bubble that's
hard to bleed and no mess what so ever.

Wayne

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Good idea Wayne I followed the manual and used a bulkhead fitting on the
deck. It's really tight getting the line on from where it exits the strut.
Plus it would save the agrivation of fishing the line through the stut
every time.

At 09:18 AM 3/23/2007 -0400, you wrote:

If I may suggest...

Take your brake lines for the floats right up to the pedal cylinders...just
like you did with your wheel gear.

When I swap gear I drain the brake lines to empty the brake pedal
cylinders..drop the floats and pull the brake line completely out..reinstall
the wheel gear with it's own brake lines right back to the pedal cylinders
and refill from the bottom. No joining mid line to add an air bubble that's
hard to bleed and no mess what so ever.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphib bulkhead G

Hi Drew

Yes let us know what you find out about the push locs. I understand they
are replacing most of the older fittings for industrial uses and it
looks like that includes air brakes. I was also thinking about putting
a small ball valve just above the floor for changing lines. A ball valve
with a push loc connection would make a cheap quick disconnect. I think
Angus recommended a small air bleeder up by the forward cylinders as
well. And eventually I will look for a pressure relief valve.

If it helps the PN that I've jotted down for springs are
MSC 07663891
Davco XHP 67 ( confirmed number as I have those in my hand)
Tipco EH150-350
Superior 344-24x4 (the x is either a 0 or a 1 for a 3.5" long spring,
not sure which it is)

Ken


Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Hi Ken Thanks for the spring source. I started taking my gear apart a
couple days ago. I thought I could just take out the suspension tube but
everything has to come apart to get at them :( much wiser to make the
changes during construction. I'm having good luck with air brake tubing
for
my brake line. Sometime when I'm in London I plan to check out push-loc
metal fittings cuz it's a pain replacing all the metal ferrels (?sp) every
time I switch gear.
Drew

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Drew



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Pretty much the same drill if you use either metal or plastic lines for the
'phibs retract system. With the plastic...I bring the lines under the
fuselage and T them there in the center and up thru the floor to the
selector valve. This way when you drop the floats...selector to
neutral/locked get inside while someone holds the tees outside and undo the
in/out lines and throw a union on them joining them together. No more than a
few drops of fluid will hit the cloth you put down as with the selector in
neutral air can't get in to let fluid out. Now that the lines are joined
tuck them up under the panel for wheel flying..with no worries if someone
hits your pump or selector valve. Heck give the nervous flier something to
do and select gear down and let them pump for hours as the fluid goes round
and round.

With metal lines I use a 90* bulkhead fitting for each line, on each side, a
few inches foreward of the fwd strut pickup and then tee these lines up
behind the panel and then to the selector valve. Same drill again...selector
neutral..pull the lines and put a flare fitting cap nut on each one without
losing a drop of fluid.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Brake lines for floats

Wayne

Sounds like a good solution. Being a smartass I have brake cylinders on
all four pedals but they bleed easilly from the bottom up. I fed the
brake lines up through a tight fitting plastic conduit that goes
vertically through the 2X2 square tube. It let them come out inside the
gear fairing but now I can't pull the brake line back unless I remove
the ferrule on the end of it. Maybe another place to consider those
push loc fittings although I don't know about using them on the pedals
where there is movement....

I was thinking of the retract lines when I mentioned the ball valves.

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

If I may suggest...

Take your brake lines for the floats right up to the pedal
cylinders...just
like you did with your wheel gear.

When I swap gear I drain the brake lines to empty the brake pedal
cylinders..drop the floats and pull the brake line completely
out..reinstall
the wheel gear with it's own brake lines right back to the pedal cylinders
and refill from the bottom. No joining mid line to add an air bubble
that's
hard to bleed and no mess what so ever.

Wayne

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