The Murphy Builders Site

Keith,

Sounds like a great plan.
Do you have any pictures?

Thanks,

Brad Hewlett
Saskatoon, SK
bhewlett@sasktel.net

----- Original Message -----
From: <keith@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 11:46 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Homemade bulkhead fitting

After routing my fuel lines to low areas in the fuselage I attached them
to a
"T" fitting that holdes the Safair drain valve. Where the bottem of the
"T"
meets the fuselage I drilled a hole a bit larger then the threads on the
1/8"
valve.
I then took a 1/4" X 1/8" brass pipe bushing and sawed the hex portion
off,
and with a little filing and a bit of clean up I ended up with a 1/8" pipe
"jamb
nut". With a 1/8" pipe tap I cut the threads deep enough so the nut would
turn on to the end of the threads on the valve.
With the "T" fitting over the hole on the inside, and the "jamb nut" and a
little
thread sealer on the valve, I simply screwed the valve through the hole
into
the "T" fitting as far as It would go then tighened the "jamb nut" up
against
the skin.
Perhaps others have used this trick, but I thought it was a good idea.




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Brad:

Sorry no pictures, and am not capable of posting them

the On 3/3/2007 4:40 AM, rebel-builders@dcsol.com wrote to Keith:

-> Keith,
->
-> Sounds like a great plan.
-> Do you have any pictures?
->
-> Thanks,
->
-> Brad Hewlett
-> Saskatoon, SK
-> bhewlett@sasktel.net
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: <keith@dcsol.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 11:46 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders] Homemade bulkhead fitting
->
->
-> > After routing my fuel lines to low areas in the fuselage I attached them
-> > to a
-> > "T" fitting that holdes the Safair drain valve. Where the bottem of the
-> > "T"
-> > meets the fuselage I drilled a hole a bit larger then the threads on the
-> > 1/8"
-> > valve.
-> > I then took a 1/4" X 1/8" brass pipe bushing and sawed the hex portion
-> > off,
-> > and with a little filing and a bit of clean up I ended up with a 1/8" pipe
-> > "jamb
-> > nut". With a 1/8" pipe tap I cut the threads deep enough so the nut
would
-> > turn on to the end of the threads on the valve.
-> > With the "T" fitting over the hole on the inside, and the "jamb nut" and a
-> > little
-> > thread sealer on the valve, I simply screwed the valve through the hole
-> > into
-> > the "T" fitting as far as It would go then tighened the "jamb nut" up
-> > against
-> > the skin.
-> > Perhaps others have used this trick, but I thought it was a good idea.
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->





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