[rebel-builders] Rivet Removal
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:52 am
You don't need a special rivet removal tool. Those are for bucked rivets.
The cool thing about blind rivets is that once you punch the mandrel out
(step 1) the hole in the rivet centers your drill bit which is something you
don't get when drilling out bucked rivets, hence the need for a rivet
removal tool for those. The easy four step process is as follows:
1. Punch out the mandrel. I have been using a cheap scribe that I have
repeatedly reground to get a nice new point when it wears down or gets
damaged. Try to grind the taper out of the scribe and it'll be easier to
get out after the mandrel is punched out.
2. Using the same size drill as originally used for final sizing the hole
prior to riveting, drill into the head of the rivet. Some people use a bit
that's one size smaller which might help prevent damage to the rivet hole.
3. Turn the same drill bit upside down and use it to wiggle the head off.
4. Punch out the rest of the rivet. I found a nice flat-faced punch that
is just the right size for 1/8 inch rivets to do this. You could use an old
drill bit as a punch too.
You could actually just drill all the way through after punching out the
mandrel and most of the time you get the rivet out without damaging the
hole, but once in a while the hole can get damaged with this shortcut. Some
holes will be damaged using the four step process above too. No big deal,
just go up to a 5/32 rivet. Remember, Avex rivets are known to be much
better at "filling" a less than perfect hole than bucked rivets. Be
advised, sometimes the dang mandrel will simply not cooperate and won't come
out. You have to get creative and sometimes have a damaged hole to deal
with when this happens. When the mandrel stands a little proud of the rivet
head it can be challenging to get your punch onto it without slipping off to
the side. Hold your tongue just right and cross your eyes and you'll get
it.
Mike
044SR
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Richard E. Swan
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rivet Removal
Hello Again Murhpy Builders and Flyers:
I thought I had saved in my "tips and techniques" files the procedures for
removing blind rivets, but now can't seem to find it.
I'm just about finished cleaning up the wings of the project I purchased and
will soon be moving to phase 2 - replacing a couple of sheets under the
cabin area. I've noticed there are a couple of the aircraft suppliers that
offer "rivet removal" tools, but these are kind of pricey. Is there a "home
made" method that works just as well, or am I better off going with a tool
designed for this purpose?
thanks,
Richard
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The cool thing about blind rivets is that once you punch the mandrel out
(step 1) the hole in the rivet centers your drill bit which is something you
don't get when drilling out bucked rivets, hence the need for a rivet
removal tool for those. The easy four step process is as follows:
1. Punch out the mandrel. I have been using a cheap scribe that I have
repeatedly reground to get a nice new point when it wears down or gets
damaged. Try to grind the taper out of the scribe and it'll be easier to
get out after the mandrel is punched out.
2. Using the same size drill as originally used for final sizing the hole
prior to riveting, drill into the head of the rivet. Some people use a bit
that's one size smaller which might help prevent damage to the rivet hole.
3. Turn the same drill bit upside down and use it to wiggle the head off.
4. Punch out the rest of the rivet. I found a nice flat-faced punch that
is just the right size for 1/8 inch rivets to do this. You could use an old
drill bit as a punch too.
You could actually just drill all the way through after punching out the
mandrel and most of the time you get the rivet out without damaging the
hole, but once in a while the hole can get damaged with this shortcut. Some
holes will be damaged using the four step process above too. No big deal,
just go up to a 5/32 rivet. Remember, Avex rivets are known to be much
better at "filling" a less than perfect hole than bucked rivets. Be
advised, sometimes the dang mandrel will simply not cooperate and won't come
out. You have to get creative and sometimes have a damaged hole to deal
with when this happens. When the mandrel stands a little proud of the rivet
head it can be challenging to get your punch onto it without slipping off to
the side. Hold your tongue just right and cross your eyes and you'll get
it.
Mike
044SR
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Richard E. Swan
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rivet Removal
Hello Again Murhpy Builders and Flyers:
I thought I had saved in my "tips and techniques" files the procedures for
removing blind rivets, but now can't seem to find it.
I'm just about finished cleaning up the wings of the project I purchased and
will soon be moving to phase 2 - replacing a couple of sheets under the
cabin area. I've noticed there are a couple of the aircraft suppliers that
offer "rivet removal" tools, but these are kind of pricey. Is there a "home
made" method that works just as well, or am I better off going with a tool
designed for this purpose?
thanks,
Richard
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