[rebel-builders] Corrosion Protection
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:52 am
Hi Tim !
Congratulations on getting started !!! Now the fun begins ! :-)
The preferred method is Polyfiber Epoxy Primer BRUSHED on wet,
between all joints, assembled WET ! This means the epoxy fills the
gap, preventing capillary action from drawing water into the joint,
AND it actually glues the structure together. This is the original
method specified by the factory. There have been lots
of tests by Boeing & DeHavilland in humidity chambers, and this
method was the choice - also used by Dick Schreder on 22 different
glider designs, including several where the epoxy held the wing
skins to the structural foam ribs - no rivets !
The Polyfiber stuff isn't cheap, and you will see lots of
alternatives proposed here - MY choice is definitely to go with
the Polyfiber Epoxy in the joints ONLY (EP-430). You really don't
want to spray any of these epoxies - they're toxic, and can glue
your lungs shut ! :-( You will only need 1 pint (or 2 if you were
to spray the flat surfaces) for the whole Rebel. It isn't just
being used as a 'primer' in this application.
For the large surfaces, inside, and on floats, several builders here
have had great success with Everbright. It's a clear liquid nylon
that you can apply with a cloth or a brush ... flows easily, so you
get a smooth finish without work, and protects for many years.
If damaged, you can just wet a cloth & wipe over - it will soften
the original layer & blend right in. If you need to remove it,
just wipe with Naptha .... Again, you don't need much - it's
like water, and a thin film protects, so hardly any additional
weight to worry about. Do all the joints first with epoxy,
then wipe the Everbright onto the rest - IF you want to ...
We've opened up Rebels that sat outside for 15 years, with just
the joints done, and they were still shiney inside !!
Don't think the epoxy primer will stick well to Everbright ...
Even if you don't do the Everbright, there are treatments
you can spray into the completed aircraft afterwards - like
Northern Shield, or one of the Boeing products (D-29 ??) -
these go in as a fog, creep, spread, and harden to a waxy
finish that lasts for many years.
--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 23 February 2007 01:28, tjhickey@dcsol.com wrote:
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Congratulations on getting started !!! Now the fun begins ! :-)
The preferred method is Polyfiber Epoxy Primer BRUSHED on wet,
between all joints, assembled WET ! This means the epoxy fills the
gap, preventing capillary action from drawing water into the joint,
AND it actually glues the structure together. This is the original
method specified by the factory. There have been lots
of tests by Boeing & DeHavilland in humidity chambers, and this
method was the choice - also used by Dick Schreder on 22 different
glider designs, including several where the epoxy held the wing
skins to the structural foam ribs - no rivets !
The Polyfiber stuff isn't cheap, and you will see lots of
alternatives proposed here - MY choice is definitely to go with
the Polyfiber Epoxy in the joints ONLY (EP-430). You really don't
want to spray any of these epoxies - they're toxic, and can glue
your lungs shut ! :-( You will only need 1 pint (or 2 if you were
to spray the flat surfaces) for the whole Rebel. It isn't just
being used as a 'primer' in this application.
For the large surfaces, inside, and on floats, several builders here
have had great success with Everbright. It's a clear liquid nylon
that you can apply with a cloth or a brush ... flows easily, so you
get a smooth finish without work, and protects for many years.
If damaged, you can just wet a cloth & wipe over - it will soften
the original layer & blend right in. If you need to remove it,
just wipe with Naptha .... Again, you don't need much - it's
like water, and a thin film protects, so hardly any additional
weight to worry about. Do all the joints first with epoxy,
then wipe the Everbright onto the rest - IF you want to ...
We've opened up Rebels that sat outside for 15 years, with just
the joints done, and they were still shiney inside !!
Don't think the epoxy primer will stick well to Everbright ...
Even if you don't do the Everbright, there are treatments
you can spray into the completed aircraft afterwards - like
Northern Shield, or one of the Boeing products (D-29 ??) -
these go in as a fog, creep, spread, and harden to a waxy
finish that lasts for many years.
--
......bobp
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 23 February 2007 01:28, tjhickey@dcsol.com wrote:
right onHi Group:
What do you guys think is a good way to provide for corrosion protection for
the Rebel? My project most likely will never see floats, although I live
guess thatthe Mississippi, and we plan to install the float fittings. But I would
Ithere is less than a 5% chance it will ever go on water.
I know that Zinc Chromate is one material that has been used for years, but
that.have not tried to buy any of it for a long time, and I think I may have been
told that it is no longer on the market in spray cans. I am not sure about
materialI have a friend who just started a Zenith 701, and Zenith provides a
it.called Cortech vci-373 liquid wash primer/coating with corrosion inhibitor.
It looks like milk, and is brushed on and dries clear. I know nothing about
I have seen references on the List about using epoxy primer. I am assuming
that is a two part material that is sprayed on.
I have also heard about a water based product call something like "Deft".
Anybody recommend this?
So that is the question: What is a good choice for corrosion protection?
Oh, yes, I am building to LSA standards, so we got to stay light!
Thanks
Tim Hickey
Rebel 808
Box received today
Clock is ticking.
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