The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

All,

In laying out and fitting the trim horns for the trim servo rod(EL-36L &
EL-36R), I filed the flanges to short to accept three rivets (each side),
spaced at 3D intervals, and still have 2D edge spacing. The manual appears
to show the ends of the flanges squared off, but I should not have done so.
Would anyone have any suggestions?

Of course, one thought I had was to use just two rivets each side, but I
don't like the idea of altering things from the way it is supposed to be
done.

The other thought I had was to fabricate new pieces, if I could find a local
source for the aluminum.Does anybody know what type aluminum these parts
are? 6061-T6?

Thanks for the help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

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Your following message has been delivered to the 152 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 14:00:53 on 6 May 2000.
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Roger, all parts in the Rebel series fo aircraft are 6061-T6, except some of
the .063 and all the .125 pieces!

If you haven't drilled for the 3 rivets, just put them a little closer
together to squeeze the 3 onto the flange.

Regards,
Wayne G.O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger & Alice Hoffman <rognal@continet.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, May 06, 2000 10:56 AM
Subject: Trim Assembly

All,

In laying out and fitting the trim horns for the trim servo rod(EL-36L &
EL-36R), I filed the flanges to short to accept three rivets (each side),
spaced at 3D intervals, and still have 2D edge spacing. The manual appears
to show the ends of the flanges squared off, but I should not have done so.
Would anyone have any suggestions?

Of course, one thought I had was to use just two rivets each side, but I
don't like the idea of altering things from the way it is supposed to be
done.

The other thought I had was to fabricate new pieces, if I could find a

local

source for the aluminum.Does anybody know what type aluminum these parts
are? 6061-T6?

Thanks for the help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

R & A,
If you have any doubt as to what the alloy of a part that you want to remake, you
should send an e-mail to the factory to get clarification. I have inquired of the factory
several times and they have been very good about responding to these types of questions
however, it may take a week or so to get an answer. Unless you know what sheet the old
part was cut from you could end up using the wrong alloy in a critical spot. Some of the
structural parts are made of 2024-T4.
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 446

Roger & Alice Hoffman wrote:

All,

In laying out and fitting the trim horns for the trim servo rod(EL-36L &
EL-36R), I filed the flanges to short to accept three rivets (each side),
spaced at 3D intervals, and still have 2D edge spacing. The manual appears
to show the ends of the flanges squared off, but I should not have done so.
Would anyone have any suggestions?

Of course, one thought I had was to use just two rivets each side, but I
don't like the idea of altering things from the way it is supposed to be
done.

The other thought I had was to fabricate new pieces, if I could find a local
source for the aluminum.Does anybody know what type aluminum these parts
are? 6061-T6?

Thanks for the help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

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Archives located at:
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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

All,

Regarding my question about the trim horn, part EL-36, thanks for your
responses Richard, Wayne, & Wray.

Richard - I consider you fortunate you only have to wait a week for a
response from MAM. I have several emails to Tech since 3/15/00, a fax, and
snail mail since 4/5/00 which have all gone unanswered to date. Contrast
that with pretty much same day email response from Elaine in shipping. I
know I could call Tech, but that gets expensive.

Another question if I may with regard the trim assembly- I was wondering if
a doubler should be riveted in for the slot cut in the bottom skin of the
left elevator for the trim servo rod to pass through. The manual makes no
mention of one. If any of you suggest doing so, what thickness should the
doubler be?

Thanks for your help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

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Your following message has been delivered to the 152 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 19:07:46 on 8 May 2000.
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Roger, The "sharper" inspectors here in Canada will snag any "hole" in a
skin that does not have a doubler around it.(as they must adhere to
acceptable practices) Usually a doubler is one size thicker than the sheet
it is going on. Your elevator skin is .016 so your doubler would be .020!
Lots of Rebels flying fine without a doubler in this low stress area (mine
included). The choice is, as always, yours!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger & Alice Hoffman <rognal@continet.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, May 08, 2000 1:33 PM
Subject: Trim Assembly

All,

Regarding my question about the trim horn, part EL-36, thanks for your
responses Richard, Wayne, & Wray.

Richard - I consider you fortunate you only have to wait a week for a
response from MAM. I have several emails to Tech since 3/15/00, a fax, and
snail mail since 4/5/00 which have all gone unanswered to date. Contrast
that with pretty much same day email response from Elaine in shipping. I
know I could call Tech, but that gets expensive.

Another question if I may with regard the trim assembly- I was wondering if
a doubler should be riveted in for the slot cut in the bottom skin of the
left elevator for the trim servo rod to pass through. The manual makes no
mention of one. If any of you suggest doing so, what thickness should the
doubler be?

Thanks for your help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------*

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

Roger

There is another approach you may want to look at.

When I did that part on our Elite, I made a fairing which covers the opening keeping any
spray or foreign matter which may come up from the wheels from entering the elevator. It
also serves as a doubler which reinforces the hole and surrounds it all but at the very
back (since the fairing has the rear open to let the rod exit....).

I made it from a piece of utility grade aluminum (soft & malleable) which is easy to form
& stretch. I made a cardboard version first & shaped the aluminum from it using nothing
but a body shop type hammer and an anvil. With care you can form a nice compound curve on
the leading edge and shape the mounting surface to fit to the contour of the elevator
skin. I finished by sanding the hammer marks from it and painted it without filler.

I think it is a part most can make with a bit of patience, for me it was the first time I
had tried to make a compound curved part like that and that it only took me perhaps half
a day to do it. I don't think it is anywhere near an expert's project, I have worked
around sheet metal as a hobby but have had no formal training (cars and such) and I
didn't find it was difficult.

Give it a try, I think you'll be pleased with the result.

Dave R.

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Roger, The "sharper" inspectors here in Canada will snag any "hole" in a
skin that does not have a doubler around it.(as they must adhere to
acceptable practices) Usually a doubler is one size thicker than the sheet
it is going on. Your elevator skin is .016 so your doubler would be .020!
Lots of Rebels flying fine without a doubler in this low stress area (mine
included). The choice is, as always, yours!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger & Alice Hoffman <rognal@continet.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Monday, May 08, 2000 1:33 PM
Subject: Trim Assembly

All,

Regarding my question about the trim horn, part EL-36, thanks for your
responses Richard, Wayne, & Wray.

Richard - I consider you fortunate you only have to wait a week for a
response from MAM. I have several emails to Tech since 3/15/00, a fax, and
snail mail since 4/5/00 which have all gone unanswered to date. Contrast
that with pretty much same day email response from Elaine in shipping. I
know I could call Tech, but that gets expensive.

Another question if I may with regard the trim assembly- I was wondering if
a doubler should be riveted in for the slot cut in the bottom skin of the
left elevator for the trim servo rod to pass through. The manual makes no
mention of one. If any of you suggest doing so, what thickness should the
doubler be?

Thanks for your help.

Roger R687
Eugene, OR USA

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---------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

--
David A. Ricker P. Eng.
DARTEC Engineering Inc.
3 Tamarac Drive
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada, B2T 1E8
ricker@dbis.ns.ca
Ph. 902-860-0256

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