The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> Now for the front end reinforcements.
Being a bit of cheep dude when I made up a new fus-26 (the panel under the door sill) out of .032 I took the original 2 .020 fus-26 and joined them together for the other side. Anyone see any problems with this?
Next for the door sills I'm putting 2 st-31 (.020 channel) together, one inside the other. Any problems? strong enough? overkill?
For the forward corner wraps ...el cheepo again. putting 2 fus-10s (.020) together for one lower wrap, making one new one out of .032 . Then use the 2 fus-70 (.025) corner wraps for the top. That leaves the 4 fus-10s for the upper and lower wraps behind the cabin. Does anyone foresee any problems I might run into trying to do this? Too mickey mouse? Are the .020 wraps at the rear of the cabin still heavy enough?
I'm planning on adding the Murphy float fix gussets at the tops of the door frames, beefing up the firewall and will double pitch the door posts. Anything else I should add at this point for strengthening?
Many thanks for your thoughts
--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/
My ICQ number is 29764664
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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

Wray

As long as you are not concerned about moisture between the sheets and you add
enough extra rivets so that the laminated Fus-26 behaves as one laminated piece,
it is probably OK but 0.032 sheet is quite cheap at Ideal Metals in Brampton.
Think I paid $40 (their minimum sale) for about 5'x4' offcut about 2 years ago.
They will tell you on the phone, (ask for cash sales) what they have in offcuts
(partial sheets). They will also roll a 4x12' sheet into about a 2' roll which
will fit in the back seat of many cars. I figure the floats will need some of
this extra sheet as well.... Easier to cut the holes for the strut bracket in a
single thicknes piece also.

I personally would not even try this on a corner wrap though. Remember how much
fun the rear fuselage wrap was?? Everytime it comes off it will be a bear to
align it again and then you add primer which will change things slightly as
well... My crystal ball envisions oval rivet holes and trapped moisture.... I
made new corner wrap by placing it on a piece of angle iron and pressing a 2x2
length of wood into the end that needed creasing.

As per MAM's recommendation I left my top corner wraps 0.020. If you have a
couple of 0.025 ones why not just use them on the bottom. My bottom ones are
0.025 which are easier to work with than 0.032. If you read all the messages
carefully, I believe MAM recommended 0.020 on the top and 0.025 on the bottom
but then started shipping the 0.032 Elite part just to reduce their parts
inventory.

Another option on the door sills might be to put extra 3/4 x 3/4" angles along
both sides of the horizontal door sill. I think Brian did that to strengthen it
and avoid dents from shoes and such. If you don't have a brake maybe you could
bend up a couple of pieces (of 0.032 ?) in the RAA shop next Saturday. Or the
0.032 Stabiliser spar (ST-31?) works well here.

Ken

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm**

Wray,
This does sound 'mickey-mouse' .... a big worry with using
doubled up parts is that you really should epoxy them together very
completely - the gap between is a perfect trap for corrosion !! They
should have some mechanical connection (rivets ?) as well ...

The BOTTOM front corner wraps are THE important ones !! The
tops are not so much ... I would use the FUS-70's on the bottom.
(FUS-70 has been replaced with a new part (FUS-532 ???) which is
even thicker - .032, I think !!) The corner wraps are IMPORTANT -
this is the ONLY part I had to replace on #068.... (They had small
dents that turned into major cracks within months !) I'd be inclined
to order the new parts & avoid some future grief ....

Haven't heard of ANY problems with FUS-10's at rear of
cabin. If you do decide to use FUS-10's doubled, some builders
have run a piece of stringer or extra channel down the middle of
these .... (Not sure about this possibly creating a "tear along
the dotted line" problem ;-) )

No big problem with the FUS-26's, but you might want to add
a couple of vertical channels or pieces of stringer, partly to tie
them together, and partly for increased stiffness (many have done
this).

Suspect that stuffing one ST-31 inside another would not give
a good physical connection, and would be heavier than ST-28. Not really
a big problem - the original .020's could be easily dented by heavy
luggage - that was the only reason for using ST-28.

You might want to put a few extra channels under the floor in
the baggage area, and under the seats. Doesn't add a lot of weight,
and adds greatly to stiffness and dent resistance.

HTH !
....bobp

------------------------------orig.--------------------------------------
At 11:19 AM 5/5/00 -0400, you wrote:

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Now for the front end reinforcements.
 Being a bit of cheep dude when I made up a new fus-26 (the panel under
the door sill) out of .032 I took the original 2  .020 fus-26 and
joined them together for the other side. Anyone see any problems with this?
 Next for the door sills  I'm putting 2 st-31 (.020 channel) together,
one inside the other. Any problems? strong enough? overkill?
  For the  forward corner wraps  ...el cheepo again.
putting 2 fus-10s (.020) together for one lower wrap, making one new one
out of .032 . Then use the 2 fus-70 (.025) corner wraps for the top. That
leaves the 4 fus-10s for the upper and lower wraps behind the cabin. Does
anyone foresee any problems I might run into trying to do this? Too mickey
mouse? Are the .020 wraps at the rear of the cabin still heavy enough?
 I'm planning on adding the Murphy float fix gussets at the tops of
the door frames, beefing up the firewall and will double pitch the door
posts. Anything else I should add at this point for strengthening?
  Many thanks for your thoughts
--
 Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page <A

HREF="http://webhome.idirect.com/~wrayt/">htt ... ~wrayt/</A>

My ICQ number is 29764664
  </html>

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:47 pm**

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 153 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:02:21 on 10 May 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

While working on Charles Dixon's Rebel I noticed a unique thing done with
the front lower corner wraps. Instead of being trimed off nice and clean
like we have all been doing to make the plane pretty, they are left almost
full size. On the bottom of the fuselage Charles' plane has the row of
rivets as prepunched along the floor pan and then the sheet extends another
4 inches inboard with another row of rivets. This overlap allows for the
lower motor mount "bath tub" fitting to be installed in the area with the
extra .025 overlap and also the rudder pedal mount block is in this area
strenghtening things considerably. On the sides, the wrap is full height to
match the edge coming off the door sill and tapers slightly to the firewall.
The extra rivet row is approximately 2 inches higher then the factory
prepuched one at the carry through and about 1 1/2" higher at the firewall.

Just thought I would share this with everyone so you can loose some more
sleep deciding how to build this great little airplane!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:47 pm**

Hmmmm ! Sounds like it <might> be a "Good Thing"(TM) !! ;-)
Certainly something to consider ... especially the part under the floor.

.....bobp

--------------------------orig.----------------------------------------------
At 10:57 PM 5/10/00 -0400, you wrote:

While working on Charles Dixon's Rebel I noticed a unique thing done with
the front lower corner wraps. Instead of being trimed off nice and clean
like we have all been doing to make the plane pretty, they are left almost
full size. On the bottom of the fuselage Charles' plane has the row of
rivets as prepunched along the floor pan and then the sheet extends another
4 inches inboard with another row of rivets. This overlap allows for the
lower motor mount "bath tub" fitting to be installed in the area with the
extra .025 overlap and also the rudder pedal mount block is in this area
strenghtening things considerably. On the sides, the wrap is full height to
match the edge coming off the door sill and tapers slightly to the firewall.
The extra rivet row is approximately 2 inches higher then the factory
prepuched one at the carry through and about 1 1/2" higher at the firewall.

Just thought I would share this with everyone so you can loose some more
sleep deciding how to build this great little airplane!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*--------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------*

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Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*

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The Murphy Builders Site

Front wraps etc.

Front wraps etc.

Front wraps etc.

Front wraps etc.

Front wraps etc.

Front wraps etc.