The Murphy Builders Site

Richard E. Swan wrote:

Builders:

I sent a email to MAM on Monday with a couple of questions, but I haven't
heard back yet.

Is the tail wrap modification a piece that can be ordered from MAM, or is
it
only a builder-developed item out of scratch 0.032?

builder developed Richard. Some guys order an extra wrap from MAM and
modify it. Some guys just make it from stock which is not difficult. Ron
just made a good posted on fitting this. Only thing I'd add is that I
bolted it at the bottom (tailspring bolt) and did not remove that as I
drilled up from the bottom. I found that some holes were easiest to
locate just by measuring and then drilling to 1/16 then either drill
larger if they are correct or filing or dremelling them into the right
position as needed.

The project I have has only pictorial documentation and I can't readily
tell
what the original builder intended on engine size. Is there a couple of
measurements that can be taken to determine if it is "stock", or if it is
instead built for the heavier O290/O320? I'm sure there is a solution by
back-tracking through the plans, but to be honest I get lost at trying to
do
that. I'm thinking something simple like the forward edge of the bottom
thick plate (SG-13 ?) to the bottom of the firewall.

AFAIK all the Lyc. engines use the same firewall mount points.

Does the nose piece for the riveter need to be modified for the Rebel, or
does one just use the riveter as it comes from the factory?

Use as it comes. There is no mod required for the rivets that are used
on a Rebel.

As for corrosion - I agree with the postings that suggest neutralizing
surface corrosion rather than just trying to mechanically remove it. Of
course I've not seen what you have though. I hope there is primer in the
joints as per the manual recommends. You can wipe on a thin coat of
something like corrosion-X if you are not painting the part. (Lots of it
if it is already painted to it can seep into seams ;) ) I used
alumniprep before painting and you just have to flush with lots of
water. It is pretty benign stuff compared to alodyne. Weak acid and
detergent I believe. It leaves the surface very clean though so I'd only
do that if intending to prime it immediately. I had light surface
corrosion starting to appear on my 1992 kit so in 1998 I primed the
entire fuselage inside and out with epoxy. It was easy to add another
coat of primer and paint in 2005 and so far I am totally happy with my
paint.

Ken

Thanks again,
Richard

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