Jean
Thought I'd chime in here as I've recently just screwed up a Fus-30 and
perhaps you can avoid the mistake I made. (I'm not done with the
replacement, so jury is still out.) My mistake was ending up with a very
slight gap on the front between Fus-30 and Fus-29. Because the holes are
around the circular part, the gap cannot be removed. In retrospect, I know
I could hear and feel a slight click as the drill bit went through Fus-29,
then the slight gap before hitting Fus-30. I should have realized that was
trouble.
I would recommend drilling through the first few bottom holes, clecoing,
then one or two more each side of the bottom center, clecoing as you go so
that Fus-29 and 30 are held right next to each other the whole way up to
the sides. Stating it another way... pulling in the sides of Fus-30 makes
the curve at the bottom (of Fus30) want to move down and away -- which is
what it will do if not fully clecoed as each hole is drilled starting from
the bottom and working up.
Also, since I had screwed up my first Fus-30, I already had #40 holes in
Fus-29. This wasn't bad; in fact, I taped up the replacement Fus-30 and
put a pen mark though the bulkhead and Fus-29 holes onto Fus-30. This
allowed me to remove Fus-30 and trim off some of the excess front of Fus-30
(in front of the pen marks), and then be able to see for sure that it was
definetly laying right on Fus-29 before drilling. A pre-trim of some of
the excess also allows the Fus-30 to be pulled up to the sides instead of
running into clecos holding the Fus-29's to side skins.
Hope this helps (or better yet, was totally unnecessary),
-Ben/ 496R
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[rebel-builders] Fus-31 placement/Fus-30
[rebel-builders] Fus-31 placement/Fus-30
You know now that you are not alone in the learning process... Thanks
Jean
Rebel 747T
Jean Poirier
Pr
Jean
Rebel 747T
Jean Poirier
Pr