Mike , , as far as I know the opening windows ,, ground handler kit , dorsal
fin stabilizer fairing, the float attach points are in you have to buy and
add the float attach fitting to them and rear bulk head door are all
standard on the MOOSE the ground handler kit may be an option now. Dale
SR-033 N269DF
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[rebel-builders] Moose Kit Options
[rebel-builders] Moose Kit Options
Mike,
I have a few opinions on some of the options you are asking about---for
what it is worth!
I have the extended tanks, 120 gallons, you do not have to fill them
full all the time but it is nice to have that option especially if you
plan some remote trips. I plan to add a tab for about half full like
Pipers do in the filler neck. Miguel Nelson was able to put in 122
gallons above the unusable fuel amount.
The bubble windows and opening windows add a lot to looking out and down
as well as fresh air on the ground. I would not be without the opening
feature for fresh air on a plane any more.
Ground handles mounted forward of the horizontal stabilizer will reduce
the stresses on the horizontal stab. The fiberglass dorsal fin which,
helpers have a tendency to grab on to too assist you in moving the
plane.
If you want the skylights, the doublers hold the Plexiglas in place and
add reinforcement to the structure around them.
Drooping wing tips are standard, (at least they were on my kit)the
extended tips add about 2 feet to the wing span and improve flight
characteristics and reduce wing loading, probably worth the price tag
and extra work.
Fiberglass interior is a pretty well made system and if you want to have
a fairly nicely finished off interior probably worth the price verses
your labor of making something work.
Rear bulkhead door, I think it is to big and bulky and causes an
inconvience being in the way to open and close, I plan to use a heavy
fabric, or "window shade" type of system that won't be in the way.
Dick Wampach SR108
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf of
Mike Kraus
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 5:42 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose Kit Options
I am considering buying the rest of my Moose kit and was wondering what
options everyone recommends is worth doing vs. not worth doing.
My ultimate plan is to install amphib floats and fly to Alaska someday.
Some of the options I am considering:
-extended fuel tanks
-float attach points
-seafin kit (I assume I need this for floats?)
-seaplane ventral fin kit (also for floats?)
-opening window kit
-bubble windows
-ground handler kit
Options I have questions on:
-what is the skylight doubler
-what are drooping wingtips? are the for STOL?
-is the fiberglass interior kit worth it?
-what is the dorsal fin kit and the fiberglass stabilizer fairings?
-are the extended boarding steps for float installation?
-anyone recommend or not recommend the rear bulkhead door?
I apologize in advance for my 'rookie' questions. I've built a few RV's
and soon I'm going to the Moose.
Thanks to all for your help!
-Mike Kraus
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I have a few opinions on some of the options you are asking about---for
what it is worth!
I have the extended tanks, 120 gallons, you do not have to fill them
full all the time but it is nice to have that option especially if you
plan some remote trips. I plan to add a tab for about half full like
Pipers do in the filler neck. Miguel Nelson was able to put in 122
gallons above the unusable fuel amount.
The bubble windows and opening windows add a lot to looking out and down
as well as fresh air on the ground. I would not be without the opening
feature for fresh air on a plane any more.
Ground handles mounted forward of the horizontal stabilizer will reduce
the stresses on the horizontal stab. The fiberglass dorsal fin which,
helpers have a tendency to grab on to too assist you in moving the
plane.
If you want the skylights, the doublers hold the Plexiglas in place and
add reinforcement to the structure around them.
Drooping wing tips are standard, (at least they were on my kit)the
extended tips add about 2 feet to the wing span and improve flight
characteristics and reduce wing loading, probably worth the price tag
and extra work.
Fiberglass interior is a pretty well made system and if you want to have
a fairly nicely finished off interior probably worth the price verses
your labor of making something work.
Rear bulkhead door, I think it is to big and bulky and causes an
inconvience being in the way to open and close, I plan to use a heavy
fabric, or "window shade" type of system that won't be in the way.
Dick Wampach SR108
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf of
Mike Kraus
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 5:42 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Moose Kit Options
I am considering buying the rest of my Moose kit and was wondering what
options everyone recommends is worth doing vs. not worth doing.
My ultimate plan is to install amphib floats and fly to Alaska someday.
Some of the options I am considering:
-extended fuel tanks
-float attach points
-seafin kit (I assume I need this for floats?)
-seaplane ventral fin kit (also for floats?)
-opening window kit
-bubble windows
-ground handler kit
Options I have questions on:
-what is the skylight doubler
-what are drooping wingtips? are the for STOL?
-is the fiberglass interior kit worth it?
-what is the dorsal fin kit and the fiberglass stabilizer fairings?
-are the extended boarding steps for float installation?
-anyone recommend or not recommend the rear bulkhead door?
I apologize in advance for my 'rookie' questions. I've built a few RV's
and soon I'm going to the Moose.
Thanks to all for your help!
-Mike Kraus
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[rebel-builders] Moose Kit Options
Hi Dick and others,, The door actually isn't that bulky however the hinge
idea didn't work very well on my application so I fastened it with dzus
fasteners so it can be removed rather then swinging. Seems to work well in
the shop that way. Dale SR-033 N269DF
----- Original Message -----
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idea didn't work very well on my application so I fastened it with dzus
fasteners so it can be removed rather then swinging. Seems to work well in
the shop that way. Dale SR-033 N269DF
----- Original Message -----
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