The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.

Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to use
it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

BTW..for those that have the Float Build CD and are wondering how I did the
sealant spread over rivet heads as shown in the pictures. I just take a wood
tongue depressor..cut it off square and then add a notch in the center just
slightly wider/deeper than a rivet head. Makes for a clean cover seal
without waste/extra weight and it's neat.

Wayne

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The ooze
out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
exacta/olfa knife.

I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
see how it does.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.

Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to use
it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

BTW..for those that have the Float Build CD and are wondering how I did
the
sealant spread over rivet heads as shown in the pictures. I just take a
wood
tongue depressor..cut it off square and then add a notch in the center
just
slightly wider/deeper than a rivet head. Makes for a clean cover seal
without waste/extra weight and it's neat.

Wayne

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

At 03:20 PM 12/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The ooze
out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
exacta/olfa knife.

I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
see how it does.

Wayne

The o-rings peel really easily if you put on a leather glove and rub.
Drew

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process X 100
for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you get
that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
scrubbing until it's all clean.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:20:46 -0500

Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The ooze
out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
exacta/olfa knife.

I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
see how it does.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.

Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to use
it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

BTW..for those that have the Float Build CD and are wondering how I did
the
sealant spread over rivet heads as shown in the pictures. I just take a
wood
tongue depressor..cut it off square and then add a notch in the center
just
slightly wider/deeper than a rivet head. Makes for a clean cover seal
without waste/extra weight and it's neat.

Wayne

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

I've always said...leave it 'till it tacks/cures. Once you start swiping
Acetone into wet proseal the mess justs gets worse and worse. You are also
VERY liable to effect the cure outcome and cause leaks cleaning up right
away. I'll clean a drip/hand print or such in the middle of a large
section..but won't go anywhere near a rivet. It's a matter of catching it at
the right time to start cleaning. Usually a day or three later...but don't
be leaving it a couple weeks. Same goes for the "O-rings" around rivets.
Easier after the first few days...a tad tougher as time goes on from there.

Your disc show yet down in Sunny CA Jesse?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process X
100
for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you get
that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
scrubbing until it's all clean.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:20:46 -0500

Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The
ooze
out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
exacta/olfa knife.

I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
see how it does.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.

Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to
use
it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

Thanks Wayne,
No, I didn't get the CD yet. Maybe the're screening it at the border. They
probably think they have uncovered a terrorist plot to build canoes and
attack from the north.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 14:10:32 -0500

I've always said...leave it 'till it tacks/cures. Once you start swiping
Acetone into wet proseal the mess justs gets worse and worse. You are also
VERY liable to effect the cure outcome and cause leaks cleaning up right
away. I'll clean a drip/hand print or such in the middle of a large
section..but won't go anywhere near a rivet. It's a matter of catching it
at
the right time to start cleaning. Usually a day or three later...but don't
be leaving it a couple weeks. Same goes for the "O-rings" around rivets.
Easier after the first few days...a tad tougher as time goes on from there.

Your disc show yet down in Sunny CA Jesse?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process X
100
for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you get
that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
scrubbing until it's all clean.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:20:46 -0500

Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The
ooze
out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked
up
(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
exacta/olfa knife.

I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the
other
way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first
to
see how it does.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

sealant
bottoms
did
a
center

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

;O)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

Thanks Wayne,
No, I didn't get the CD yet. Maybe the're screening it at the border. They
probably think they have uncovered a terrorist plot to build canoes and
attack from the north.
Jesse

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 2006 14:10:32 -0500

I've always said...leave it 'till it tacks/cures. Once you start swiping
Acetone into wet proseal the mess justs gets worse and worse. You are also
VERY liable to effect the cure outcome and cause leaks cleaning up right
away. I'll clean a drip/hand print or such in the middle of a large
section..but won't go anywhere near a rivet. It's a matter of catching it
at
the right time to start cleaning. Usually a day or three later...but don't
be leaving it a couple weeks. Same goes for the "O-rings" around rivets.
Easier after the first few days...a tad tougher as time goes on from
there.

Your disc show yet down in Sunny CA Jesse?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread

When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process
X
100
for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you
get
that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
scrubbing until it's all clean.
Jesse

up
other
to
sealant
bottoms
did
a
center
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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

I hated working with the proseal, after I took Wayne's advice on the cleanup
when working with elevator doublers and fuselage doublers. Sure was a lot
easier then trying to cleanup the way I was doing it before, it wasn't so
bad working with it then.. Thanks again Wayne... Dale SR-033

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Posted: **Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:30 am**

Tape off everywhere you do not want pro-seal, and if you don't want to
mess with the curing, do not use acetone. It will be somewhat absorbed and
affect the finished product. For pre-cleaning, again don't use acetone as it
reportedly leaves a residue. Xylene or toluene does not ... so say the
chemists. Did I mention to tape off everything you don't want pro-seal on?
For fuel tanks I paint on the thin pro-seal and after a partial cure I filet with
the thick stuff ... after a partail cure (touchable without smearing) I again
paint on the thin stuff. Tape off everthing you .......

On 12/2/2006 10:00 AM, jessejenks@hotmail.com wrote to rebel-builders:

-> When I did the fuel tanks it took me hours with acetone to cleanup the
-> exterior partially cured ooze. I sure would like to avoid that process X 100
-> for the floats. What about the smears from goopy thumbs etc? Can you
get
-> that stuff off post cure as well? The problem is that once you start
-> cleaning with a rag it becomes a huge mess and you're forced to keep
-> scrubbing until it's all clean.
-> Jesse
->
->
-> >From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
-> >Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
-> >Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:20:46 -0500
-> >
-> >Exterior clean up entails nothing but waiting for it to cure and then
-> >putting someone to work peeling the "o-rings" off the rivet heads. The
ooze
-> >out along the chines etc is easy to peel immediately after it's tacked up
-> >(next day) and if you wait a bit longer requires a careful cut with
-> >exacta/olfa knife.
-> >
-> >I've put sikaflex over cured proseal on some repairs..but never the other
-> >way around. They seem to stick alright. I'd play with some scraps first to
-> >see how it does.
-> >
-> >Wayne
-> >
-> >----- Original Message -----
-> >From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
-> >To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 3:16 PM
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Sealant spread
-> >
-> >
-> > >I guessed something like that. I was also thinking that with so much
-> > > sealant you must have a heck of a cleanup job afterwards on the
-> > > exterior. I wasn't planning on being quite as generous with the sealant
-> > > as I was with the fuel tanks but maybe I should be.
-> > >
-> > > Since I have a bunch of proseal and since I'd like to keep the bottoms
-> > > resistant to any leaked hydraulic fluid, anti freeze, etc. I plan to use
-> > > it for at least the lower skins. In my cool basement it seems to take
-> > > forever for the stuff to setup anyway. Seems silly to ask if the two
-> > > stickiest substances that I know of will stick to each other but has
-> > > anybody tried that?? I'm guessing that the proseal will soften the
-> > > sikkaflex and probably adhere nicely??
-> > >
-> > > Ken
-> > >
-> > > Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
-> > >
-> > >>BTW..for those that have the Float Build CD and are wondering how I
did
-> > >>the
-> > >>sealant spread over rivet heads as shown in the pictures. I just take a
-> > >>wood
-> > >>tongue depressor..cut it off square and then add a notch in the
center
-> > >>just
-> > >>slightly wider/deeper than a rivet head. Makes for a clean cover seal
-> > >>without waste/extra weight and it's neat.
-> > >>
-> > >>Wayne
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >>
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
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-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
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