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areI was just looking over the baffle kit I received from Van's. It is a work
of art. The quality of the materials and the details of the instructions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*excellent (10+ pages). It is entirely complete. It makes what I received
from Murphy look very poor indeed. It also make me wonder if maybe some of
the heat problems people had/have/having are possibly due to lack of
attention in this area,
Has anyone, besides Murray Cherkas and myself seen this kit or am I just
easily impressed?
Keith Oliver
kboliver@adelphia.net
Elite #654 TD
N654ME (reserved)
Farmingdale, Maine
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areI was just looking over the baffle kit I received from Van's. It is a work
of art. The quality of the materials and the details of the instructions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*excellent (10+ pages). It is entirely complete. It makes what I received
from Murphy look very poor indeed. It also make me wonder if maybe some of
the heat problems people had/have/having are possibly due to lack of
attention in this area,
Has anyone, besides Murray Cherkas and myself seen this kit or am I just
easily impressed?
Keith Oliver
kboliver@adelphia.net
Elite #654 TD
N654ME (reserved)
Farmingdale, Maine
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https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
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To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
No doubt about it Keith. There's an RV6A under construction in the hangarI was just looking over the baffle kit I received from Van's. It is a work
of art. The quality of the materials and the details of the instructions are
excellent (10+ pages). It is entirely complete. It makes what I received
from Murphy look very poor indeed. It also make me wonder if maybe some of
the heat problems people had/have/having are possibly due to lack of
attention in this area,
Has anyone, besides Murray Cherkas and myself seen this kit or am I just
easily impressed?
Keith Oliver
kboliver@adelphia.net
Elite #654 TD
N654ME (reserved)
Farmingdale, Maine
I was just looking over the baffle kit I received from Van's. It is a work
of art. The quality of the materials and the details of the instructions are
excellent (10+ pages). It is entirely complete. It makes what I received
from Murphy look very poor indeed. It also make me wonder if maybe some of
the heat problems people had/have/having are possibly due to lack of
attention in this area,
Has anyone, besides Murray Cherkas and myself seen this kit or am I just
easily impressed?
Keith Oliver
kboliver@adelphia.net
Elite #654 TD
N654ME (reserved)
Farmingdale, Maine
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
with SMTP-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Legeorgen@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 6:04 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: baffles
Walter managed to cool his 0320...he just
cut the bottom of his speed cowl
out. Well, almost anyway. If you take a look
under his cowl there is this gaping
hole with a flared lip that just kept
getting bigger and bigger. Right
Walter? He keeps telling me I'll have to do
the same to mine after I get it on
floats. He might be right.
Bruce 357R
*--------------------------------------------
-----------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
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Archives located at
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mike.davis@dcsol.com
*--------------------------------------------
-----------------------------*
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 9:03 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: baffles
Hey I thought that big bump on the bottom of
Walter's cowl was where he
warmed his tv dinners. You are right on
track with the thought that you need
bigger inlets. On the last two Elites that I
built I left one stock and
increased the Inlet size buy cutting the
lower lip of the inlet open buy 1"
on the second one. This may not sound like
much but when you work it out you
are adding about 13 square inches to the
inlet area or about 20% more. This
dropped the CHT buy 65-70 degrees climb at
403 and cruise at 360 on a 50
degree day and kept the oil temp at 170 this
was with the stock cooler on the
fire wall with the 3" scat hose and this was
with a brand new 0-360 on it's
first flight. A cowled engine relies on a
preesure differential from the
inlet to the outlet to flow the air over the
cooling surfaces so continued
opening of the bottom cowl stops helping and
just gets ugly. Go measure the
inlet on a 172 with an 0-320 and you will
see how large they are compared to
the Murphy cowls. It is easier to make up
some plates to attach to the front
of the cowl in cold weather than cook and
rebuild your engine. You would be
suprised at how small the outlet is I made
it 150% of the inlet and glasaed
on a nice 1" flange along the whole of the
outlet area. This Elite lives in
Reno Navada and has zero heat problems. Many
feel this may cause more drag
but this is not the case as speed increases
and the pressure builds any
excess air spills out around the inlet and
over the cowl like the bow wave on
a boat. How do you do it? Simple fit you
cowl to the aircraft with all of the
pins and screws or how ever you are going to
do it. Now measure down 1" on
the lower surface 1" blending in the coners.
Now take two small pieces of
blue or pink foam insulationand fit them to
the inside of the cowl you may
sand it with 100 grit sand paper to make it
fit nice. Make sure that you put
a nice radius on the front edge to match the
chunk you cut away when you like
them glue them in place with some 5 minute
epoxy. Time to glass buy some
epoxy resin like West System
www.westsystem.com this can be found at marinas
and hooby shops. use 4 or 6 oz. cloth the
same stuff you make the windshield
retainer out of works fine. Put two neat
layers on and let it cure over
night. Now pick the foam out of the back
side when you have it down to the
last few crumbs you can was them away with a
little MEK don't try to melt the
foam out in one shot it makes a mess and
don't use gas as it has oil in it.
Now sabd the inside until it is smooth and
apply 4 more layers of cloth on
the back side again let it dry over night.
The last thing to do is sand and
fill the outside to make to make it look
good. As for the outlet start with
the 150% rule buy cutting a nice opening a
little bigger won't hurt but stay
under 175% as any larger does nothing. To
Glass the flange on I tape poster
board along the back edge and tape it to the
inside of the cowl You will want
to angle the flange back a bit I go between
70-80 degrees to the bottom of
the cowl. Grind away the gelcoat 2" all
around the outlet before you tape the
poster board on. Again start with two layers
of glass cloth on the out side
and run it up at least 2" and let it dry
overnightn Now peel the tape and as
much poster board of as you can the last bit
of paper can be easly removed
buy wetting it and sanding it of with some
100 grit when the area is clean
apply 2-3 more layers. When it is dry cut
the flange dow to 1" then sand and
fill. Put a crank seal baffle in I to use
the Van's baffles but I just buy
the $7 dollar templates also seal any leaks
in the baffle the stock inter
cylinder baffles fro Lycoming fit lke crap
goop them up with high temp
silicon. I shine a light up from the bottom
and if I see daylight through
anything but the cooling fins I seal it up
with metal or high temp silicon.
If for some strange reson it is still hot
rework the inlets again. Remember
good pressure differential equals goods
cooling air flow. The last thing to
check is the the area around the carb air
filter is sealed up as tight as you
can make it wit baffle seal as this is a
prime spot that lets the high
pressure ram air into the nice low pressure
are you are trying to create on
the botton side of the engine which defeats
the nice increased pressure
differential you have been trying to create.
This may all sound hard to do
but really only takes about 8-10 hours and
you can fly it when it still look
rough to test it before you paint. Good luck
Sean White
Kitplane Solutions Inc.
Kingston ON.
On 10/9/2003 6:53 PM, WALTER.KLATT@SHAW.CA
wrote to MURPHY-REBEL:
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Router v5.6.450.
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EHLO=pd4mo2so.prod.shaw.ca
-> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP
v5.6.450.
-> id 34330265; Thu, 09 Oct 2003
18:29:09 -0800
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(pd3mr3so-ser.prod.shaw.ca
[10.0.141.179])
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for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> Received: from pn2ml3so.prod.shaw.ca
-> (pn2ml3so-qfe0.prod.shaw.ca
[10.0.121.147]) by l-daemon
-> (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.2 HotFix
1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> with ESMTP id <0HMI004NDS4ENL@l-daemon>
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> Received: from user
(h24-82-58-133.vs.shawcable.net [24.82.58.133])
-> by l-daemon (iPlanet Messaging Server
5.2 HotFix 1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> with SMTP id <0HMI00LB4S4EN1@l-daemon>
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 19:26:32 -0700
-> From: Walter Klatt <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
-> Subject: RE: baffles
-> In-reply-to: <15a.25d71ca9.2cb75f6e@aol.com>
-> To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> Message-id:
<PFEOJDIIGOHLFACHDMDNCEPJCIAA.Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
-> X-Orig-MIME-version: 1.0
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->
-> Yup, that's basically it. It's not the
prettiest, but
-> at least is marginally acceptable now. That lexan
-> eyebrow on the left inlet helped, too. I
flew in the
-> hottest weather this summer, and lots of
long, hard,
-> heavily loaded climbs over the mountains,
and it did
-> work. However, I would still like to cool
it about 20
-> more degrees if I could. But without enlarging the
-> inlets, there is nothing more that I know
to try. I
-> have already done what's been discussed
here and more.
-> And yes, after about the 4th enlargement,
it was that
-> big hole that helped the most.
->
-> Walter
->
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> > Legeorgen@aol.com
-> > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 6:04 PM
-> > To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: Re: baffles
-> >
-> >
-> > Walter managed to cool his 0320...he just
-> > cut the bottom of his speed cowl
-> > out. Well, almost anyway. If you take a look
-> > under his cowl there is this gaping
-> > hole with a flared lip that just kept
-> > getting bigger and bigger. Right
-> > Walter? He keeps telling me I'll have to do
-> > the same to mine after I get it on
-> > floats. He might be right.
-> >
-> > Bruce 357R
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > *--------------------------------------------
-> > -----------------------------*
-> > To unsubscribe from this list go to:
-> >
with SMTP with SMTP-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 5:00 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: baffles
Hi Walter there may slightly better cooling
with an increase in the top cowl
inlet area but the whole theory of a
pressure cowl is the pressure
differential from inlet to outlet. I don't
know if you have ever seen the
updraft single inlet cowl that Piper played
with in the 70's but you could
not see any cooling fins through the inlet
that was in the bottom cowl with
the outlet on the top. To open the top would
require a huge amount of work to
make it look good. Opening the bottom will
have the same effect I think you
would be hard pressed to tell the
difference. Good inlet to outlet pressure
differential is the key if you buy the Van's
baffle templates you will find
two little templates that are called
cylinder temp risers. These are
deflector plates the go in front of the two
front cylinder to remove the
direct blast of air from them which makes
them run cool. By playing with the
height of these plates one can balance the
CHT's between the front and rear
cylinders as the rear ones tend to be hot.
If you have the Murphy style
baffles I would throw them away as they are
just one big air leak and lack
the parts that wrap around the bottom of the
cylinders to control airflow
over the fins. Uses good quality baffle seal
buy a large sheet apposed to the
stuff on the rolls this lets one cut all of
the nice curved pieces in one
section instead of trying to make alot of
little overlaping parts can you say
air leak. If you buy the premade baffles
from Van's it saves you many days of
screwing around making you own. The only
thing you need to do witn Van's kit
is trim the upper edge of the baffle around
the top to clear the cowl and
install the seal. Just keep repeating GOOD
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL EQUALS GOOD
FLOW and and you will beat the heat.
Sean
On 10/10/2003 3:18 AM, WALTER.KLATT@SHAW.CA
wrote to MURPHY-REBEL:
-> Received: by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP
Router v5.6.450.
-> for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com;
Thu, 09 Oct 2003 21:09:13 -0800
-> Received: from
shawidc-mo1.cg.shawcable.net ([24.71.223.10])
EHLO=pd2mo1so.prod.shaw.ca
-> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP
v5.6.450.
-> id 43932265; Thu, 09 Oct 2003
21:09:11 -0800
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-> (pd4mr2so-qfe3.prod.shaw.ca
[10.0.141.213]) by l-daemon
-> (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.2 HotFix
1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> with ESMTP id <0HMI00A02XV3OA@l-daemon>
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 22:30:39 -0600 (MDT)
-> Received: from pn2ml6so.prod.shaw.ca
-> (pn2ml6so-qfe0.prod.shaw.ca
[10.0.121.150]) by l-daemon
-> (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.2 HotFix
1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> with ESMTP id <0HMI00BI9XV3XT@l-daemon>
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 22:30:39 -0600 (MDT)
-> Received: from user
(h24-82-58-133.vs.shawcable.net [24.82.58.133])
-> by l-daemon (iPlanet Messaging Server
5.2 HotFix 1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> with SMTP id <0HMI00JKDXV2MZ@l-daemon>
for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> 09 Oct 2003 22:30:39 -0600 (MDT)
-> Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 21:30:33 -0700
-> From: Walter Klatt <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
-> Subject: RE: baffles
-> In-reply-to: <1065758599@dcsol.com>
-> To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> Message-id:
<PFEOJDIIGOHLFACHDMDNMEPKCIAA.Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
-> X-Orig-MIME-version: 1.0
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charset=iso-8859-1
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through wsMailGuard (wsAV)
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->
-> Sean, you're the first that I have heard that has
-> increased the inlet size and confirmed
that works. As
-> you say, I've also noticed how big the
Cessna inlets
-> are compared to ours.
->
-> The only question I have is why the
bottoms and not the
-> tops. Wouldn't larger top openings
provide more direct
-> inflow into the cowl and perhaps less drag? I do
-> realize you might lose some of the
visibility benefits
-> of the speed cowl.
->
-> Walter
->
-> > -----Original Message-----
-> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> > rebel@dcsol.com
-> > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 9:03 PM
-> > To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> > Subject: RE: baffles
-> >
-> >
-> > Hey I thought that big bump on the bottom of
-> > Walter's cowl was where he
-> > warmed his tv dinners. You are right on
-> > track with the thought that you need
-> > bigger inlets. On the last two Elites that I
-> > built I left one stock and
-> > increased the Inlet size buy cutting the
-> > lower lip of the inlet open buy 1"
-> > on the second one. This may not sound like
-> > much but when you work it out you
-> > are adding about 13 square inches to the
-> > inlet area or about 20% more. This
-> > dropped the CHT buy 65-70 degrees climb at
-> > 403 and cruise at 360 on a 50
-> > degree day and kept the oil temp at 170 this
-> > was with the stock cooler on the
-> > fire wall with the 3" scat hose and this was
-> > with a brand new 0-360 on it's
-> > first flight. A cowled engine relies on a
-> > preesure differential from the
-> > inlet to the outlet to flow the air over the
-> > cooling surfaces so continued
-> > opening of the bottom cowl stops helping and
-> > just gets ugly. Go measure the
-> > inlet on a 172 with an 0-320 and you will
-> > see how large they are compared to
-> > the Murphy cowls. It is easier to make up
-> > some plates to attach to the front
-> > of the cowl in cold weather than cook and
-> > rebuild your engine. You would be
-> > suprised at how small the outlet is I made
-> > it 150% of the inlet and glasaed
-> > on a nice 1" flange along the whole of the
-> > outlet area. This Elite lives in
-> > Reno Navada and has zero heat problems. Many
-> > feel this may cause more drag
-> > but this is not the case as speed increases
-> > and the pressure builds any
-> > excess air spills out around the inlet and
-> > over the cowl like the bow wave on
-> > a boat. How do you do it? Simple fit you
-> > cowl to the aircraft with all of the
-> > pins and screws or how ever you are going to
-> > do it. Now measure down 1" on
-> > the lower surface 1" blending in the coners.
-> > Now take two small pieces of
-> > blue or pink foam insulationand fit them to
-> > the inside of the cowl you may
-> > sand it with 100 grit sand paper to make it
-> > fit nice. Make sure that you put
-> > a nice radius on the front edge to match the
-> > chunk you cut away when you like
-> > them glue them in place with some 5 minute
-> > epoxy. Time to glass buy some
-> > epoxy resin like West System
-> > www.westsystem.com this can be found at marinas
-> > and hooby shops. use 4 or 6 oz. cloth the
-> > same stuff you make the windshield
-> > retainer out of works fine. Put two neat
-> > layers on and let it cure over
-> > night. Now pick the foam out of the back
-> > side when you have it down to the
-> > last few crumbs you can was them away with a
-> > little MEK don't try to melt the
-> > foam out in one shot it makes a mess and
-> > don't use gas as it has oil in it.
-> > Now sabd the inside until it is smooth and
-> > apply 4 more layers of cloth on
-> > the back side again let it dry over night.
-> > The last thing to do is sand and
-> > fill the outside to make to make it look
-> > good. As for the outlet start with
-> > the 150% rule buy cutting a nice opening a
-> > little bigger won't hurt but stay
-> > under 175% as any larger does nothing. To
-> > Glass the flange on I tape poster
-> > board along the back edge and tape it to the
-> > inside of the cowl You will want
-> > to angle the flange back a bit I go between
-> > 70-80 degrees to the bottom of
-> > the cowl. Grind away the gelcoat 2" all
-> > around the outlet before you tape the
-> > poster board on. Again start with two layers
-> > of glass cloth on the out side
-> > and run it up at least 2" and let it dry
-> > overnightn Now peel the tape and as
-> > much poster board of as you can the last bit
-> > of paper can be easly removed
-> > buy wetting it and sanding it of with some
-> > 100 grit when the area is clean
-> > apply 2-3 more layers. When it is dry cut
-> > the flange dow to 1" then sand and
-> > fill. Put a crank seal baffle in I to use
-> > the Van's baffles but I just buy
-> > the $7 dollar templates also seal any leaks
-> > in the baffle the stock inter
-> > cylinder baffles fro Lycoming fit lke crap
-> > goop them up with high temp
-> > silicon. I shine a light up from the bottom
-> > and if I see daylight through
-> > anything but the cooling fins I seal it up
-> > with metal or high temp silicon.
-> > If for some strange reson it is still hot
-> > rework the inlets again. Remember
-> > good pressure differential equals goods
-> > cooling air flow. The last thing to
-> > check is the the area around the carb air
-> > filter is sealed up as tight as you
-> > can make it wit baffle seal as this is a
-> > prime spot that lets the high
-> > pressure ram air into the nice low pressure
-> > are you are trying to create on
-> > the botton side of the engine which defeats
-> > the nice increased pressure
-> > differential you have been trying to create.
-> > This may all sound hard to do
-> > but really only takes about 8-10 hours and
-> > you can fly it when it still look
-> > rough to test it before you paint. Good luck
-> >
-> > Sean White
-> > Kitplane Solutions Inc.
-> > Kingston ON.
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > On 10/9/2003 6:53 PM, WALTER.KLATT@SHAW.CA
-> > wrote to MURPHY-REBEL:
-> >
-> > -> Received: by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP
-> > Router v5.6.450.
-> > -> for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com;
-> > Thu, 09 Oct 2003 18:29:11 -0800
-> > -> Received: from
-> > shawidc-mo1.cg.shawcable.net ([24.71.223.10])
-> > EHLO=pd4mo2so.prod.shaw.ca
-> > -> by dcsol.com (Wildcat! SMTP
-> > v5.6.450.
-> > -> id 34330265; Thu, 09 Oct 2003
-> > 18:29:09 -0800
-> > -> Received: from pd3mr3so.prod.shaw.ca
-> > (pd3mr3so-ser.prod.shaw.ca
-> > [10.0.141.179])
-> > -> by l-daemon (iPlanet Messaging Server
-> > 5.2 HotFix 1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> > -> with ESMTP id <0HMI00F5AS4EUY@l-daemon>
-> > for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> > -> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> > -> Received: from pn2ml3so.prod.shaw.ca
-> > -> (pn2ml3so-qfe0.prod.shaw.ca
-> > [10.0.121.147]) by l-daemon
-> > -> (iPlanet Messaging Server 5.2 HotFix
-> > 1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> > -> with ESMTP id <0HMI004NDS4ENL@l-daemon>
-> > for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> > -> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> > -> Received: from user
-> > (h24-82-58-133.vs.shawcable.net [24.82.58.133])
-> > -> by l-daemon (iPlanet Messaging Server
-> > 5.2 HotFix 1.16 (built May 14 2003))
-> > -> with SMTP id <0HMI00LB4S4EN1@l-daemon>
-> > for murphy-rebel@dcsol.com; Thu,
-> > -> 09 Oct 2003 20:26:38 -0600 (MDT)
-> > -> Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 19:26:32 -0700
-> > -> From: Walter Klatt <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
-> > -> Subject: RE: baffles
-> > -> In-reply-to: <15a.25d71ca9.2cb75f6e@aol.com>
-> > -> To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> > -> Message-id:
-> >
<PFEOJDIIGOHLFACHDMDNCEPJCIAA.Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
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-> > ->
-> > -> Yup, that's basically it. It's not the
-> > prettiest, but
-> > -> at least is marginally acceptable
now. That lexan
-> > -> eyebrow on the left inlet helped, too. I
-> > flew in the
-> > -> hottest weather this summer, and lots of
-> > long, hard,
-> > -> heavily loaded climbs over the mountains,
-> > and it did
-> > -> work. However, I would still like to cool
-> > it about 20
-> > -> more degrees if I could. But without
enlarging the
-> > -> inlets, there is nothing more that I know
-> > to try. I
-> > -> have already done what's been discussed
-> > here and more.
-> > -> And yes, after about the 4th enlargement,
-> > it was that
-> > -> big hole that helped the most.
-> > ->
-> > -> Walter
-> > ->
-> > -> > -----Original Message-----
-> > -> > From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -> > [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> > -> > Legeorgen@aol.com
-> > -> > Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 6:04 PM
-> > -> > To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
-> > -> > Subject: Re: baffles
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Walter managed to cool his 0320...he just
-> > -> > cut the bottom of his speed cowl
-> > -> > out. Well, almost anyway. If you
take a look
-> > -> > under his cowl there is this gaping
-> > -> > hole with a flared lip that just kept
-> > -> > getting bigger and bigger. Right
-> > -> > Walter? He keeps telling me I'll have to do
-> > -> > the same to mine after I get it on
-> > -> > floats. He might be right.
-> > -> >
-> > -> > Bruce 357R
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
-> > -> >
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-> -> >
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-> -> > To contact the list admin, e-mail
-> -> > mike.davis@dcsol.com
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-> -> >
-> -> >
-> -> >
-> ->
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->
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-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 10:31 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: baffles
Heres a couple more things for you to try
Walter. There used to by a cessna
aerobat at centralia that the AME owner did
a whole bunch of cooling tricks
to. One of the things he did that he claimed
made a huge difference was
install a baffle from front to back along
the top of the engine case. His
theory was that it reduced the turbulance on
top of the engine and allowed
the air to flow smoothly through the
cylinders. It must have worked because
he kept reducing the inlet size until it's
now only about 2"high. Kind of
the same idea as smoothing the outlet with
an aluminum wrap at the bottom
of the firewall.
On my plane I saw significantly reduced
temps by using header tape to wrap
my exhaust. Bob P. Hates the stuff but I
just did my annual and after 4
years 250hrs. there's no visible
deterioration on either the old piper
cross-over exhaust I used or the mild steel
extension pipes that replace
the piper muffler. With a new oil cooler
installed this summer when I
changed my plane over to floats the highest
oil temperature I've seen is
190 degrees. That was after a long full
power climb on a 30 degree day.
Usually my temps are under 180*
Drew Dalgleish
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https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 2:04 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: baffles
Drew would be talking about a straight piece
from your front baffle back to
the accessory case, bolted on using a couple
of top case bolts down the
center, with baffle seal along the top. This
keeps air from mixing from side
to side. My UTVA's have this down the center
of the GSO-480's.
Happy "Gobble Gobble" Canadians,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <walter.klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 3:31 PM
Subject: RE: baffles
front to backDrew, when you say install a baffle fromplenum? For meon top of the engine, do mean a closedcowl. Thethat would be a little difficult with thisand I think youfibreglass cowl is pretty tight on top,beyond my metalwould need to fabricate compound curves on the top
piece to make it fit. That's a littletemps, as theskills.
In my case, I have no problems with oilright baffle.oil cooler is attached to the rear of mykeep the tempsIn fact, I have to close off air flow towith my #3 CHTup. It's my rear cylinders that get hot,being the highest.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 10:31 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: baffles
Heres a couple more things for you to try
Walter. There used to by a cessna
aerobat at centralia that the AME owner did
a whole bunch of cooling tricks
to. One of the things he did that he claimed
made a huge difference was
install a baffle from front to back along
the top of the engine case. His
theory was that it reduced the turbulance on
top of the engine and allowed
the air to flow smoothly through the
cylinders. It must have worked because
he kept reducing the inlet size until it's
now only about 2"high. Kind of
the same idea as smoothing the outlet with
an aluminum wrap at the bottom
of the firewall.
On my plane I saw significantly reduced
temps by using header tape to wrap
my exhaust. Bob P. Hates the stuff but I
just did my annual and after 4
years 250hrs. there's no visible
deterioration on either the old piper
cross-over exhaust I used or the mild steel
extension pipes that replace
the piper muffler. With a new oil cooler
installed this summer when I
changed my plane over to floats the highest
oil temperature I've seen is
190 degrees. That was after a long full
power climb on a 30 degree day.
Usually my temps are under 180*
Drew Dalgleish
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