sloshing etc.
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:46 pm
Attn. Mr Warren M. in ae, here is another one for you: unless you have a
deathwish, DO NOT SLUSH. There are several ways to get at the outside of
the tank and plug up whatever you need to plug up FROM THE OUTSIDE. It
sounds like you are already past that stage, but may I repeat my old
suggestions to those builders still having to do the integral fueltanks:
reduce the "openings" around the stringers, anywhere with small metal plates
first, before applying the PB. I used a whole bunch of small metal plates
with outline of an upside down J cut out in them, to slide over the
stringer, for example. Other little aluminium plates in the wingroot area
and so on. I know the feeling reference the yoke! I still have the
stick on my Rebel, but had to have a second throttle for the left hand. If
no luck from where you are, I know Atlanta Air Salvage in Griffin, Georgia
has more yokes and the stuff you need with it than any place. They are all
over Trade-A-Plane or I can contact them for you. A little favor in return,
I have flown behind a 14P and it is a great engine, are you doing an SR
taildragger or nosewheel? If nosewheel, prop clearance ok or did you
increase the gear leg height somewhat?? Above all, those former EastBloc
engines have one thing in common, whether 260hp, 300 hp or 1000 hp, you park
and walk away for two minutes and the buggers hydraulic lock on you. I know
that is somewhat exaggerated, but still pull that prop through when in
doubt. Some fop in Holland that did not want his lily-white little hands
dirty, did not pull the prop through on my AN-2 and started it..... I never
saw conrods so bent in my life and you could almost built a Rebel with the
metal in the screens! Geert Frank
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deathwish, DO NOT SLUSH. There are several ways to get at the outside of
the tank and plug up whatever you need to plug up FROM THE OUTSIDE. It
sounds like you are already past that stage, but may I repeat my old
suggestions to those builders still having to do the integral fueltanks:
reduce the "openings" around the stringers, anywhere with small metal plates
first, before applying the PB. I used a whole bunch of small metal plates
with outline of an upside down J cut out in them, to slide over the
stringer, for example. Other little aluminium plates in the wingroot area
and so on. I know the feeling reference the yoke! I still have the
stick on my Rebel, but had to have a second throttle for the left hand. If
no luck from where you are, I know Atlanta Air Salvage in Griffin, Georgia
has more yokes and the stuff you need with it than any place. They are all
over Trade-A-Plane or I can contact them for you. A little favor in return,
I have flown behind a 14P and it is a great engine, are you doing an SR
taildragger or nosewheel? If nosewheel, prop clearance ok or did you
increase the gear leg height somewhat?? Above all, those former EastBloc
engines have one thing in common, whether 260hp, 300 hp or 1000 hp, you park
and walk away for two minutes and the buggers hydraulic lock on you. I know
that is somewhat exaggerated, but still pull that prop through when in
doubt. Some fop in Holland that did not want his lily-white little hands
dirty, did not pull the prop through on my AN-2 and started it..... I never
saw conrods so bent in my life and you could almost built a Rebel with the
metal in the screens! Geert Frank
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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