sloshing etc.

[Geert Frank]

Attn. Mr Warren M. in ae, here is another one for you: unless you have a
deathwish, DO NOT SLUSH. There are several ways to get at the outside of
the tank and plug up whatever you need to plug up FROM THE OUTSIDE. It
sounds like you are already past that stage, but may I repeat my old
suggestions to those builders still having to do the integral fueltanks:
reduce the "openings" around the stringers, anywhere with small metal plates
first, before applying the PB. I used a whole bunch of small metal plates
with outline of an upside down J cut out in them, to slide over the
stringer, for example. Other little aluminium plates in the wingroot area
and so on. I know the feeling reference the yoke! I still have the
stick on my Rebel, but had to have a second throttle for the left hand. If
no luck from where you are, I know Atlanta Air Salvage in Griffin, Georgia
has more yokes and the stuff you need with it than any place. They are all
over Trade-A-Plane or I can contact them for you. A little favor in return,
I have flown behind a 14P and it is a great engine, are you doing an SR
taildragger or nosewheel? If nosewheel, prop clearance ok or did you
increase the gear leg height somewhat?? Above all, those former EastBloc
engines have one thing in common, whether 260hp, 300 hp or 1000 hp, you park
and walk away for two minutes and the buggers hydraulic lock on you. I know
that is somewhat exaggerated, but still pull that prop through when in
doubt. Some fop in Holland that did not want his lily-white little hands
dirty, did not pull the prop through on my AN-2 and started it..... I never
saw conrods so bent in my life and you could almost built a Rebel with the
metal in the screens! Geert Frank

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[Warren T. Montgomery]

From: "Geert Frank" <storchpilot@mediaone.net>

Attn. Mr Warren M. in ae, here is another one for you: unless you have a
deathwish, DO NOT SLUSH.

Thanks again guys. I was under the impression that the sloshing was to coat the PRC to
prevent breakdown by Mogas.
I WILL NOT be sloshing as I have no leaks!!:-)

I used a whole bunch of small metal plates with outline of an upside down J cut out in
them, to slide over the
stringer, for example. Other little aluminium plates in the wingroot area and so on.

I used up lots of time making stringer plates (nothing like MAMs) and others. Result,
solid joints and no leaks!!

I know the feeling reference the yoke! I know Atlanta Air Salvage in Griffin,
Georgia
has more yokes and the stuff you need with it than any place.

Thanks for the tip

Are you doing an SR taildragger or nosewheel?, prop clearance ok or did you
increase the gear leg height somewhat?? Above all, those former EastBloc
engines hydraulic lock on you.

Tail dragger, clearance will be 12.5" with the standard tire, I plan on swapping for the
larger tires however.
I've also been considering (probably not though) custom AL gear legs a couple of inches
longer, price about 1500USD with internal brake lines.
My serviceable engine with logs is still in the box. storage time is up to 10 yrs.
Yes, A Cyl drain kit is a must!!!! Three of my colleges have them (Yak 18T, 52 & SU29)
BTW I'm going to do some measurements on the 18T (low wing four place) cowling next week
to see if compatible with SR profile.
--
Warren T. Montgomery
<monty@emirates.net.ae>
Dubai, United Arab Emirates


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