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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by Ken
Thanks Jim
Spaenaur. They have a website I believe. I use the Kitchener location
but there is another one in the N.E. corner of Toronto. I'm sure they
ship out as well.
Their catalog is huge and makes interesting reading. They used to charge
for it but seem to give it away free at the counter now. Unfortunately
they are a bit pricey but often they are the only place that I can get
certain bolts, unusual hardware items, rubber moldings, etc.
Ken

Jim Cole wrote:
Hi Ken, great to see your Rebel on Sunday and yes your Subaru is certainly
very quite and smooth - sounded great when you left.

I can't remember where you picked up your door locks?

Thanks
Jim
Rebel 333




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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by Dale Fultz
Ken do you have a photo of your door latch??? Dale SR-033



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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by Ken
I uploaded window_knob.jpg
and window_lock.jpg

The left side window lock is just a T handle knob with a key in it -
probably intended for a desk or cabinet. When locked the knob won't
turn. The right side is just a knob with no lock. On the right side I
put a latch on the linkage (inside the fuselage) so that side can be set
to automatically lock when the latch is closed at the end of the day.
You can see much of the linkage in the pics. The linkage rotates two
delrin "pins" down through the top of the door frame and into tabs
rivetted to the top of the window frame. The tabs double as little
handles for pulling the window closed. Probably overkill but I wanted
the latch to engage in two places so that the top forward window corner
did not push out at high speed. As it happens I was at redline speed for
a bit this morining and the window definately doesn't move ;)

I have the door and window closing tight against the fuselage. I haven't
noticed any drafts but there is a bit of fretting on the rivet heads
showing up now so I guess a 1/16" thick piece of weatherstripping foam
on the inside of the overhang "seal" is a good idea. One thing that has
worked well for me on the Rebel is a "rub" plate on the bottom of the
door that mates or rubs against a wear plate on the rear part of the
door sill. That takes the door weight when it is closed and insures that
the latch at the back of the door is aligned properly for latching the
door. My door latch is similar to the manual but again with a wear plate
around the hole in the rear door post.

Ken

Dale Fultz wrote:
Ken do you have a photo of your door latch??? Dale SR-033




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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by Brian Breathnach
Hi Ken !

Instead of foam weatherstripping, Rob glued pieces of leather
around mine - thin, durable, soft enough to seal, and doesn't
hold water like foam ..... Just a thought !

.......bobp
(visiting Brian B.)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Friday 17 November 2006 20:53, Ken wrote:
I uploaded window_knob.jpg
and window_lock.jpg

The left side window lock is just a T handle knob with a key in it -
probably intended for a desk or cabinet. When locked the knob won't
turn. The right side is just a knob with no lock. On the right side I
put a latch on the linkage (inside the fuselage) so that side can be set
to automatically lock when the latch is closed at the end of the day.
You can see much of the linkage in the pics. The linkage rotates two
delrin "pins" down through the top of the door frame and into tabs
rivetted to the top of the window frame. The tabs double as little
handles for pulling the window closed. Probably overkill but I wanted
the latch to engage in two places so that the top forward window corner
did not push out at high speed. As it happens I was at redline speed for
a bit this morining and the window definately doesn't move ;)

I have the door and window closing tight against the fuselage. I haven't
noticed any drafts but there is a bit of fretting on the rivet heads
showing up now so I guess a 1/16" thick piece of weatherstripping foam
on the inside of the overhang "seal" is a good idea. One thing that has
worked well for me on the Rebel is a "rub" plate on the bottom of the
door that mates or rubs against a wear plate on the rear part of the
door sill. That takes the door weight when it is closed and insures that
the latch at the back of the door is aligned properly for latching the
door. My door latch is similar to the manual but again with a wear plate
around the hole in the rear door post.

Ken

Dale Fultz wrote:
Ken do you have a photo of your door latch??? Dale SR-033
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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by gargus
Only wondow_lock made it, but not window_knob.

---- Brian Breathnach <breathnach@shaw.ca> wrote:
Hi Ken !

Instead of foam weatherstripping, Rob glued pieces of leather
around mine - thin, durable, soft enough to seal, and doesn't
hold water like foam ..... Just a thought !

.......bobp
(visiting Brian B.)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Friday 17 November 2006 20:53, Ken wrote:
I uploaded window_knob.jpg
and window_lock.jpg

The left side window lock is just a T handle knob with a key in it -
probably intended for a desk or cabinet. When locked the knob won't
turn. The right side is just a knob with no lock. On the right side I
put a latch on the linkage (inside the fuselage) so that side can be set
to automatically lock when the latch is closed at the end of the day.
You can see much of the linkage in the pics. The linkage rotates two
delrin "pins" down through the top of the door frame and into tabs
rivetted to the top of the window frame. The tabs double as little
handles for pulling the window closed. Probably overkill but I wanted
the latch to engage in two places so that the top forward window corner
did not push out at high speed. As it happens I was at redline speed for
a bit this morining and the window definately doesn't move ;)

I have the door and window closing tight against the fuselage. I haven't
noticed any drafts but there is a bit of fretting on the rivet heads
showing up now so I guess a 1/16" thick piece of weatherstripping foam
on the inside of the overhang "seal" is a good idea. One thing that has
worked well for me on the Rebel is a "rub" plate on the bottom of the
door that mates or rubs against a wear plate on the rear part of the
door sill. That takes the door weight when it is closed and insures that
the latch at the back of the door is aligned properly for latching the
door. My door latch is similar to the manual but again with a wear plate
around the hole in the rear door post.

Ken

Dale Fultz wrote:
Ken do you have a photo of your door latch??? Dale SR-033
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[rebel-builders] Re: Door Latch

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:26 am
by Ken
Might be worth trying again.
They both just now seemed to download OK for me.
Ken

gargus@adelphia.net wrote:
Only wondow_lock made it, but not window_knob.




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