The Murphy Builders Site

You'd be correct Ken. There is a bulkhed that shows 87 degrees or something
like that and it should be 90. Hopefully we can get the CD together in the
next few weeks. Not promising anything with a wife just out of the hospital
and a hangar full of float planes to winterize.

Remind me what FL-36 is so I can confirm it as well.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I assume that the bottom flange angle for bulkhead G is not correct in
Fig 4 on page 3-4 dated 03/27/95. The bottom flange angle of bulkheads D
through F is 90 degrees and it would seem that it should also be 90* on
G. Also the flange has to be 90* to match the 90* angle on the FL-37
angle that is rivetted to the other side of the bulkhead I think. Hope
this saves someone a bunch of head scratching or someone tells me why
I'm wrong... ;)

I notice the pics at the end of chapter 5 show the FL-36 attach angle
installed upside down on bulkhead G compared to Fig 16a of chapter 3.
Since Fig 16a would seem to be an improvement and since I found a pic
from Wayne that shows it as per the diagram, I believe Fig 16a is correct.

Ken




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Ken...I just went out and refreshed my brain. YES both FL-36 and FL-37
flanges face the bottom of the float.

DO NOT seal and rivet the FL-37's as per the manual. Leave them cleco'd only
until you have done final install/sealed/riveted the rear bottom skins.
Otherwise they will be in the way for drilling the doubler angles that go on
FL-36 to sandwich the rear bottom skin and be in the way for
sealing/riveting same.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I assume that the bottom flange angle for bulkhead G is not correct in
Fig 4 on page 3-4 dated 03/27/95. The bottom flange angle of bulkheads D
through F is 90 degrees and it would seem that it should also be 90* on
G. Also the flange has to be 90* to match the 90* angle on the FL-37
angle that is rivetted to the other side of the bulkhead I think. Hope
this saves someone a bunch of head scratching or someone tells me why
I'm wrong... ;)

I notice the pics at the end of chapter 5 show the FL-36 attach angle
installed upside down on bulkhead G compared to Fig 16a of chapter 3.
Since Fig 16a would seem to be an improvement and since I found a pic
from Wayne that shows it as per the diagram, I believe Fig 16a is correct.

Ken




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Hi Wayne
Yes I had noticed that rivetting the FL-37's would make it difficult to
install the rear bottom skin. I will follow your posts here for
installing the gear brackets on bulkhead G as well. Definately put me
down as a
customer when you start taking orders for that CD :)
Ken


Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken...I just went out and refreshed my brain. YES both FL-36 and FL-37
flanges face the bottom of the float.

DO NOT seal and rivet the FL-37's as per the manual. Leave them cleco'd only
until you have done final install/sealed/riveted the rear bottom skins.
Otherwise they will be in the way for drilling the doubler angles that go on
FL-36 to sandwich the rear bottom skin and be in the way for
sealing/riveting same.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I assume that the bottom flange angle for bulkhead G is not correct in
Fig 4 on page 3-4 dated 03/27/95. The bottom flange angle of bulkheads D
through F is 90 degrees and it would seem that it should also be 90* on
G. Also the flange has to be 90* to match the 90* angle on the FL-37
angle that is rivetted to the other side of the bulkhead I think. Hope
this saves someone a bunch of head scratching or someone tells me why
I'm wrong... ;)

I notice the pics at the end of chapter 5 show the FL-36 attach angle
installed upside down on bulkhead G compared to Fig 16a of chapter 3.
Since Fig 16a would seem to be an improvement and since I found a pic
from Wayne that shows it as per the diagram, I believe Fig 16a is correct.

Ken

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I too am waiting for the CD before I start my floats. I hope your wife
recovers well. Winterize? Down here "winterize is what we do to get the
watercraft ready for the season where the coldest day temps are 60's and
the fishing, boating and flying (severe clear) are great! Oh yeah, we also go
out and count Canadians ... they're everywhere!

On 10/28/2006 7:11 PM, oifa@irishfield.on.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->





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I'm probably the last guy to figure this out but I discovered this fall
that my wet/dry shop vac is the perfect tool for getting ALL the water out
of my floats. Sure beats mopping them out with a sponge and there's enough
air flow that it dries them too.
Drew



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Drew....the secret to drying them out is to just move a trouble light from
compartment to compartment. I use two lights and just leave them in for 1/2
to a full day in each.... depending on the compartment size. The heat
evaporates every last drop for a freeze/corrosion free winter of storage.

Bob White's Elite already had ice in the rear compartments when he brought
his in on Friday afternoon. CLAMAR's may not leak at all....but those stupid
spin on access holes do!

We'll try to get to the CD as soon as we can. The evil computer programming
son can up with an excellent idea last night to detour anyone wanting to
copy it for anyone else...so that's one hurdle out of the way.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I'm probably the last guy to figure this out but I discovered this fall
that my wet/dry shop vac is the perfect tool for getting ALL the water out
of my floats. Sure beats mopping them out with a sponge and there's enough
air flow that it dries them too.
Drew



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Thanks for the tip Wayne. Does anyone fog their floats with ACF50 or LPS? I
used sikaflex instead of pro-seal when I built my floats and I don't know
if it would break down If exposed to either of these.

At 11:18 AM 10/29/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Drew....the secret to drying them out is to just move a trouble light from
compartment to compartment. I use two lights and just leave them in for 1/2
to a full day in each.... depending on the compartment size. The heat
evaporates every last drop for a freeze/corrosion free winter of storage.

Bob White's Elite already had ice in the rear compartments when he brought
his in on Friday afternoon. CLAMAR's may not leak at all....but those stupid
spin on access holes do!

We'll try to get to the CD as soon as we can. The evil computer programming
son can up with an excellent idea last night to detour anyone wanting to
copy it for anyone else...so that's one hurdle out of the way.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I'm probably the last guy to figure this out but I discovered this fall
that my wet/dry shop vac is the perfect tool for getting ALL the water out
of my floats. Sure beats mopping them out with a sponge and there's enough
air flow that it dries them too.
Drew



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Drew



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You get the odd rivet that starts to turn white inside the floats. I have
some small sample bottles of ACF that I dab on them to slow it down. Other
than that..haven't seen any need ...even in FOKM's floats that were MAM's
original set of amphibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

Thanks for the tip Wayne. Does anyone fog their floats with ACF50 or LPS?
I
used sikaflex instead of pro-seal when I built my floats and I don't know
if it would break down If exposed to either of these.

At 11:18 AM 10/29/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Drew....the secret to drying them out is to just move a trouble light from
compartment to compartment. I use two lights and just leave them in for
1/2
to a full day in each.... depending on the compartment size. The heat
evaporates every last drop for a freeze/corrosion free winter of storage.

Bob White's Elite already had ice in the rear compartments when he brought
his in on Friday afternoon. CLAMAR's may not leak at all....but those
stupid
spin on access holes do!

We'll try to get to the CD as soon as we can. The evil computer
programming
son can up with an excellent idea last night to detour anyone wanting to
copy it for anyone else...so that's one hurdle out of the way.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I'm probably the last guy to figure this out but I discovered this fall
that my wet/dry shop vac is the perfect tool for getting ALL the water
out
of my floats. Sure beats mopping them out with a sponge and there's
enough
air flow that it dries them too.
Drew



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Drew



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OK thanks again.

At 07:16 PM 10/29/2006 -0500, you wrote:

You get the odd rivet that starts to turn white inside the floats. I have
some small sample bottles of ACF that I dab on them to slow it down. Other
than that..haven't seen any need ...even in FOKM's floats that were MAM's
original set of amphibs.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

Thanks for the tip Wayne. Does anyone fog their floats with ACF50 or LPS?
I
used sikaflex instead of pro-seal when I built my floats and I don't know
if it would break down If exposed to either of these.

At 11:18 AM 10/29/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Drew....the secret to drying them out is to just move a trouble light from
compartment to compartment. I use two lights and just leave them in for
1/2
to a full day in each.... depending on the compartment size. The heat
evaporates every last drop for a freeze/corrosion free winter of storage.

Bob White's Elite already had ice in the rear compartments when he brought
his in on Friday afternoon. CLAMAR's may not leak at all....but those
stupid
spin on access holes do!

We'll try to get to the CD as soon as we can. The evil computer
programming
son can up with an excellent idea last night to detour anyone wanting to
copy it for anyone else...so that's one hurdle out of the way.

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual




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Drew



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Drew



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Ken one other thing I do.... I think the float looks much better with the
rear bulkhead flanges IN. Makes for a smoother looking float. It requires
making the bulkhead ever so slightly shorter and the flanges are of course
bent less than 90 instead of beyond. Also requires making the water rudder
upper pivot bracket longer to match the axis of the lower bracket...but I
think the small extra work is worth it. If you have already made the rear
bulkhead the difference in length is pretty insignificant. You could just
take some of the bend out to turn it around.

We're going through the 1100 + pics and making sure we've got the right
ones. They all need to be "tagged" with Irish Field Aviation. Then Daryl
will do his magic and make copies as they are ordered... that will deter
anyone sharing with anyone but their closest friend. Yep we found naked
pictures of everyone's wives.... ;o) LOL

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

Hi Wayne
Yes I had noticed that rivetting the FL-37's would make it difficult to
install the rear bottom skin. I will follow your posts here for
installing the gear brackets on bulkhead G as well. Definately put me
down as a
customer when you start taking orders for that CD :)
Ken


Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken...I just went out and refreshed my brain. YES both FL-36 and FL-37
flanges face the bottom of the float.

DO NOT seal and rivet the FL-37's as per the manual. Leave them cleco'd
only
until you have done final install/sealed/riveted the rear bottom skins.
Otherwise they will be in the way for drilling the doubler angles that go
on
FL-36 to sandwich the rear bottom skin and be in the way for
sealing/riveting same.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 float manual

I assume that the bottom flange angle for bulkhead G is not correct in
Fig 4 on page 3-4 dated 03/27/95. The bottom flange angle of bulkheads D
through F is 90 degrees and it would seem that it should also be 90* on
G. Also the flange has to be 90* to match the 90* angle on the FL-37
angle that is rivetted to the other side of the bulkhead I think. Hope
this saves someone a bunch of head scratching or someone tells me why
I'm wrong... ;)

I notice the pics at the end of chapter 5 show the FL-36 attach angle
installed upside down on bulkhead G compared to Fig 16a of chapter 3.
Since Fig 16a would seem to be an improvement and since I found a pic
from Wayne that shows it as per the diagram, I believe Fig 16a is
correct.

Ken

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Thanks Wayne

I'll think about this one. Might be harder to repair a tail strike with
the bulkhead turned around but it would add a couple of pounds
displacement for Drew!!

Might be embarrassing if those naked pics went to the wrong address ;)

Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Ken one other thing I do.... I think the float looks much better with the
rear bulkhead flanges IN. Makes for a smoother looking float. It requires
making the bulkhead ever so slightly shorter and the flanges are of course
bent less than 90 instead of beyond. Also requires making the water rudder
upper pivot bracket longer to match the axis of the lower bracket...but I
think the small extra work is worth it. If you have already made the rear
bulkhead the difference in length is pretty insignificant. You could just
take some of the bend out to turn it around.

We're going through the 1100 + pics and making sure we've got the right
ones. They all need to be "tagged" with Irish Field Aviation. Then Daryl
will do his magic and make copies as they are ordered... that will deter
anyone sharing with anyone but their closest friend. Yep we found naked
pictures of everyone's wives.... ;o) LOL

Wayne

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