Just about to start nicopressing the cable ends on at the rudder and
elevator - so after that I'll be deciding how much to cut off the stick.
I'll keep the stick as long as I possibly can.
On that thread - anyone measured the typical travel at the top of the brake
pedals to operate the brakes so I don't position the pedals too close to the
firewall that I can't get full rudder and pedal deflection if I need it ?
I reckon by trig the rudder pedal will travel just over 1.5 inches to
produce 25 degrees at the rudder, but how much does the brake travel alone
add to that figure ?
Thanks
Nig
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Alan Hepburn
Sent: 22 October 2006 13:29
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Nigel;
Agree, though I did mine on CAD software. You also have to watch for
the slope of the top deck - can't put anything too deep in the top row,
at least on the Elite. Similarly, anything near the edge of the side
panels risks hitting the sides of the airplane, particularly on the
Rebel, which has a much greater angle on the panels. For Rebels with
the shorter nose, panel depth may be an issue for the same reason.
What did you do about the stick clearnace problem on the Elite, Nigel?
Those who say you don't need the down elevator have never tried to get
on step with floats. If I was doing mine again, I'd change the gearing
to shorten the elevator travel, and that's a majoe change. I'm
surprised that getting the tail up on wheels does not also require full
down.
Al
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
N.Smith
Sent: October 21, 2006 4:09 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Hi Dale
I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web
to download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
print them out.
That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
size of instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and
it's easy to cut out a hole too close to something else that will
interfere behind).
Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
that close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
around till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the
best place.
I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
cutting metal.
Nig
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
panel build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else
has an opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys..
Dale SR-033 N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
Kept as much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my
bereach without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
enoughtilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
vsiroom
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
Steve W. 637R
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