The Murphy Builders Site

Keep it basic and your eyes outside the cockpit! Too many up there already
"head down" playing with their glass screens.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Fultz" <dfultz17086@earthlink.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:50 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Was wondering if there is anything you guys would recommend as changes to
panels. What I mean is do you have any recommendations as to anything you
would do differently if doing your panel over again. I have got a lot of
wiring done ready to start the panel layout would like to make it close to
right the first time. This panel will be basic VFR with EI's MVP-50,
Garmin 300 XL, 327 transponder w/ ACK-350 encoder,Trutrak ADI, Airspeed,
Compass, Altimeter, Vertical speed and a PS 3000 intercom. As the old
saying goes hind sight is 20 / 20 so I thought I would go ahead and ask
those that have built and flying.. Thanks in advance. Dale SR-033



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Try very hard to get ALL switches and instruments on pull out
(removeable) subpanels. With the structural panel it is a bit difficult
on the Rebel but worth it. The few that I didn't put on a subpanel are
proving to be a bear to modify or trouble shoot and we know those will
be the ones that you need to get at sooner or later.

Other thing is that I have to duck my head a bit to read the frequency
on my com radio (icom A-200). I should tilt the radio up for better
viewing and maybe even angle it toward the left seat.

Ken

Dale Fultz wrote:

Was wondering if there is anything you guys would recommend as changes to panels. What I mean is do you have any recommendations as to anything you would do differently if doing your panel over again. I have got a lot of wiring done ready to start the panel layout would like to make it close to right the first time. This panel will be basic VFR with EI's MVP-50, Garmin 300 XL, 327 transponder w/ ACK-350 encoder,Trutrak ADI, Airspeed, Compass, Altimeter, Vertical speed and a PS 3000 intercom. As the old saying goes hind sight is 20 / 20 so I thought I would go ahead and ask those that have built and flying.. Thanks in advance. Dale SR-033

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Well said! Keep your eyes outside! I remember my oval track racing days ...
one big red truck clearance light mounted on top of the panel wired to ALL
the engine sensors. All those fancy gauges went unobserved because it was
really dangerous to bring your eyes inside. Seriously, make the majority of
your scan outside the cockpit. I know some pilots who can't hold the wings
level without using the artificial horizon.
On 10/19/2006 6:02 PM, oifa@irishfield.on.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Keep it basic and your eyes outside the cockpit! Too many up there
already
-> "head down" playing with their glass screens.
->
->
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "Dale Fultz" <dfultz17086@earthlink.net>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:50 PM
-> Subject: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> > Was wondering if there is anything you guys would recommend as
changes to
-> > panels. What I mean is do you have any recommendations as to
anything you
-> > would do differently if doing your panel over again. I have got a lot of
-> > wiring done ready to start the panel layout would like to make it close to
-> > right the first time. This panel will be basic VFR with EI's MVP-50,
-> > Garmin 300 XL, 327 transponder w/ ACK-350 encoder,Trutrak ADI,
Airspeed,
-> > Compass, Altimeter, Vertical speed and a PS 3000 intercom. As the old
-> > saying goes hind sight is 20 / 20 so I thought I would go ahead and ask
-> > those that have built and flying.. Thanks in advance. Dale SR-033
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->





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Dale: no end of the things to do to a panel.
Sit in a few different airplanes and get the feel of each lay out,
Cessna, Piper, and Bonanza, I like the 182, 206 & 210 for good lay out.
Take a bunch of pictures and study them and get other persons to give
you input. Lay out paper pictures and see if what you come up with is
practical and will fit. Keep in mind you have a good hauling
cross-country airplane not a pattern flyer.

I am going with the Dynon package:
Flight instrument top left in front of pilot. The 100 & 120
Engine monitor in the left angled panel next to flight box
Garmin 296 directly below the flight info box
Radios down the center (or so)
Steam gage 6-pack with gyros to the right for co-pilot and as a
back up for me---4 on the flat panel and 2 in the angled
panel,
(gyros must face forward). Then I will fit everything
else in around them.
I will add a 2" lip along the bottom of the panel to mount
throttle and other controls panel space. Master and
Ignition switches in lower left. Circuit breakers do not get
hi-priority

Try to think of the same relative locations for things as the factory
planes. It will be so much easier to transition back and forth for you
and others. All switches up for on. Knobs; carb heat, throttle, prop,
mixture.

I scared myself and the examiner on my multi check ride because I had
moved back and forth from the Apache to a twin beech craft for a few
flights. On take off found I was pulling back the mixture knobs (I
wanted props)to reduce the RPM. He got pretty loud and wanted to know
what I was doing. A ringing in my ears that I still remember like
yesterday and it was almost 40 years ago---keep it standard.

Dick Wampach SR108



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 6:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Was wondering if there is anything you guys would recommend as changes
to panels. What I mean is do you have any recommendations as to
anything you would do differently if doing your panel over again. I
have got a lot of wiring done ready to start the panel layout would like
to make it close to right the first time. This panel will be basic VFR
with EI's MVP-50, Garmin 300 XL, 327 transponder w/ ACK-350
encoder,Trutrak ADI, Airspeed, Compass, Altimeter, Vertical speed and a
PS 3000 intercom. As the old saying goes hind sight is 20 / 20 so I
thought I would go ahead and ask those that have built and flying..
Thanks in advance. Dale SR-033



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It's about as basic as I can get. I don't think I would have put the MVP-50
engine monitor in but with this engine being different thought it a good
idea to have as much information availible if I needed it. I appreciate you
guys taking the time to email the ideas to help me and others. Hopefully
some of the input will save time in the end and make a fine finished
product. I finally got it through my head -- keep it simple and get it done
enjoy the accomplishment. Dale




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I like the idea of the sub-panel thing too. It makes life a lot easier when you
do need to make changes. I am contemplating doing the same thing myself.

I agree that keeping your head outside the aircraft is a good thing, although
having good information on hand when you need it is important.



On 10/19/2006 7:03 PM, dfultz17086@earthlink.net wrote to rebel-builders:

-> It's about as basic as I can get. I don't think I would have put the MVP-50
-> engine monitor in but with this engine being different thought it a good
-> idea to have as much information availible if I needed it. I appreciate you
-> guys taking the time to email the ideas to help me and others. Hopefully
-> some of the input will save time in the end and make a fine finished
-> product. I finally got it through my head -- keep it simple and get it done
-> enjoy the accomplishment. Dale
->





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Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and vsi
in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival celebrating
the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and vsi
in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival celebrating
the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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Hi Dale

I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web to
download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and print
them out.

That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum size of
instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's easy to
cut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).

Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came that
close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.

Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things around
till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the best place.

I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started cutting
metal.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior. Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and vsi
in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival celebrating
the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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Nigel;

Agree, though I did mine on CAD software. You also have to watch for
the slope of the top deck - can't put anything too deep in the top row,
at least on the Elite. Similarly, anything near the edge of the side
panels risks hitting the sides of the airplane, particularly on the
Rebel, which has a much greater angle on the panels. For Rebels with
the shorter nose, panel depth may be an issue for the same reason.

What did you do about the stick clearnace problem on the Elite, Nigel?
Those who say you don't need the down elevator have never tried to get
on step with floats. If I was doing mine again, I'd change the gearing
to shorten the elevator travel, and that's a majoe change. I'm
surprised that getting the tail up on wheels does not also require full
down.

Al
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
N.Smith
Sent: October 21, 2006 4:09 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


Hi Dale

I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web
to download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
print them out.

That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
size of instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and
it's easy to cut out a hole too close to something else that will
interfere behind).

Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
that close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.

Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
around till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the
best place.

I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
cutting metal.

Nig
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels


I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
panel build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else
has an opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys..
Dale SR-033 N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels

Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
Kept as much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my

reach without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can

be

tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left

enough

room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and

vsi

in case someone wanted to put in gyros.

Steve W. 637R

_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
celebrating the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile
Jam Fest for your a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com




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I am thinking about using "removable panels" for all of my instruments. I
figure that I can then service behind the gear easily and change my mind if I
want to, with the avionics.

I went to a site www.epanelbuilder.com and they have the Rebel, Elite and
Moose panels to work with and everything is to scale.

On 10/22/2006 4:28 AM, ahepburn@xplornet.com wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Nigel;
->
-> Agree, though I did mine on CAD software. You also have to watch for
-> the slope of the top deck - can't put anything too deep in the top row,
-> at least on the Elite. Similarly, anything near the edge of the side
-> panels risks hitting the sides of the airplane, particularly on the
-> Rebel, which has a much greater angle on the panels. For Rebels with
-> the shorter nose, panel depth may be an issue for the same reason.
->
-> What did you do about the stick clearnace problem on the Elite, Nigel?
-> Those who say you don't need the down elevator have never tried to get
-> on step with floats. If I was doing mine again, I'd change the gearing
-> to shorten the elevator travel, and that's a majoe change. I'm
-> surprised that getting the tail up on wheels does not also require full
-> down.
->
-> Al
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
-> N.Smith
-> Sent: October 21, 2006 4:09 AM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> Hi Dale
->
-> I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
-> panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web
-> to download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
-> print them out.
->
-> That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
-> size of instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and
-> it's easy to cut out a hole too close to something else that will
-> interfere behind).
->
-> Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
-> that close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
->
-> Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
-> around till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the
-> best place.
->
-> I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
-> cutting metal.
->
-> Nig
-> 745E
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> Dale Fultz
-> Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else
-> has an opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys..
-> Dale SR-033 N269DF
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > Hi Dale
-> > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> > Kept as much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my
->
-> > reach without
-> > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> be
-> > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > room
-> > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> vsi
-> > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> >
-> > Steve W. 637R
-> >
-> >
_________________________________________________________________
-> > Ready for the world's first international mobile film festival
-> > celebrating the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile
-> > Jam Fest for your a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
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->
-> > password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->
->
->
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-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->
->
->
->
->
->
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->
->
->
->





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