I am thinking about using "removable panels" for all of my instruments. I
figure that I can then service behind the gear easily and change my mind if I
want to, with the avionics.
I went to a site
www.epanelbuilder.com and they have the Rebel, Elite and
Moose panels to work with and everything is to scale.
On 10/22/2006 4:28 AM,
ahepburn@xplornet.com wrote to rebel-builders:
-> Nigel;
->
-> Agree, though I did mine on CAD software. You also have to watch for
-> the slope of the top deck - can't put anything too deep in the top row,
-> at least on the Elite. Similarly, anything near the edge of the side
-> panels risks hitting the sides of the airplane, particularly on the
-> Rebel, which has a much greater angle on the panels. For Rebels with
-> the shorter nose, panel depth may be an issue for the same reason.
->
-> What did you do about the stick clearnace problem on the Elite, Nigel?
-> Those who say you don't need the down elevator have never tried to get
-> on step with floats. If I was doing mine again, I'd change the gearing
-> to shorten the elevator travel, and that's a majoe change. I'm
-> surprised that getting the tail up on wheels does not also require full
-> down.
->
-> Al
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From:
mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:
mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
-> N.Smith
-> Sent: October 21, 2006 4:09 AM
-> To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> Hi Dale
->
-> I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
-> panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web
-> to download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and
-> print them out.
->
-> That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum
-> size of instruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and
-> it's easy to cut out a hole too close to something else that will
-> interfere behind).
->
-> Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted came
-> that close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
->
-> Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
-> around till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the
-> best place.
->
-> I'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and started
-> cutting metal.
->
-> Nig
-> 745E
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From:
mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:
mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
-> Dale Fultz
-> Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
-> To:
rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the
-> panel build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else
-> has an opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys..
-> Dale SR-033 N269DF
-> ----- Original Message -----
-> From: "steve whitenect" <
srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
-> To: <
rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
->
->
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > Hi Dale
-> > I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
-> > Kept as much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my
->
-> > reach without
-> > leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
-> be
-> > tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
-> > doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left
-> enough
-> > room
-> > in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt and
-> vsi
-> > in case someone wanted to put in gyros.
-> >
-> > Steve W. 637R
-> >
-> >
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-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
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