The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Ian
9044 are listed in ASS for $16.00 for the Hatz Bi-plane. 9/16" cross section,
4.5"dia.
I would also check the Wicks Aircraft site. Maybe I'll try making my own....
Ken

Ian Donaldson wrote:

Maybe I could order these from the USA if some one could recommend a
supplier.

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G'day

Thanks to those who responded regarding the bungee suspension rings. I
now have a better handle on the whole subject.

Bobp suggested #9044 bungees. Would anyone know if these rings were made
to suit a particular aircraft? It would be helpful to quote this to our
nearest aircraft shop, as he does not have a clue as to what I am
talking about!

Maybe I could order these from the USA if some one could recommend a
supplier.

Thanks and regards

Ian Donaldson


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G'day


I am still wrestling with the bungee suspension. I am not going to use the factory method, but individual rings.

What I propose is to make individual rings from the factory supplied bungee. But instead of lacing them together I will
join them together with stainless steel "pig rings" firmly clinched onto the rubber.


I have found this method successful before and I would like to know if anyone has used this method, with success.


Could some one advise me of the unstretched diameted of the #9044 rings that some people use.


Thanks and regards


Ian Donaldson

Hi Ian !

Those pig rings might work, if you can be sure they won't slip
out. Some folks have used steel gear clamps to tie the bungees together,
too. You DO want to fasten the clamps when the bungee is stretched,
though, as it reduces in diameter under tension.

The "9044" bungees - the number tells it all :

the "9" says it is 9/16" in diameter (the first 2 digits are dia.
in 1/16"'s)

the "44" gives the unstretched ring inside diameter = 4.4"

When installing the rings, do them one at a time. Just hook the
ring over the top bolt, and use a ratchet strap hooked to the other end
and the bottom of the gear leg tube to stretch the ring. A large
screwdriver can then pull the bungee over onto the bottom bolt.
Put the penny washer on the top bolt, and insert the bottom bolt the
other way, so you just have to slip the bungee over the bolt end.
Doing the other side is a bit trickier ;-)

.....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 10:20 PM 8/19/01 +1000, you wrote:

G'day


I am still wrestling with the bungee suspension. I am not going to use the

factory method, but individual rings.

What I propose is to make individual rings from the factory supplied

bungee. But instead of lacing them together I will

join them together with stainless steel "pig rings" firmly clinched onto

the rubber.

I have found this method successful before and I would like to know if

anyone has used this method, with success.

Could some one advise me of the unstretched diameted of the #9044 rings

that some people use.

Thanks and regards


Ian Donaldson
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT size=2>G'day</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I am still wrestling with the bungee suspension. I am not
going to use the factory method, but individual rings.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>What I propose is to make individual rings from the factory
supplied bungee. But instead of lacing them together I&nbsp;will</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>join them together with stainless steel "pig rings" firmly
clinched onto the rubber.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have found this method successful before and I would

like to

know if anyone has used this method, with success.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Could some one advise me of the unstretched diameted of the
#9044 rings that some people use.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Thanks and regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Ian Donaldson</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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G'day Bob

I have tried the "pig rings on an unstretched bungee and as the rings are
clamped up, they really squeeze down into the bungee
rubber.

I have used this method before and it would appear to be as successful as
lashing with twine.

Thanks for the dimensions on the 9044 rings. I will make mine the same size


That's a great method of getting the bungees into position. I was wondering
just how I would do that.


Regards

Ian Donaldson




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Hi Ian !

Maybe you could post a photo of the pig rings, once you've
got them installed. This sure sounds like it might be an easier way
to join bungees !

Don't make your rings 4.4" I.D. if you are using the bungee
supplied by Murphy - it is thicker than 9/16", and you'd end up too
stiff ! What you are aiming for is about 40% pre-loading, so figure
on about 60% of the distance between your gear bolts ....

I'm assuming that the new manual shows the bungee bolts as
being installed parallel to the Rebel floor ..... the early ones
had one bolt 90 degrees to the other. This works, but makes it hard
to install bungees and fairings ! It is definitely worth the effort
to fair the gear legs and bungees - you'll gain 10 mph !!

......bobp

----------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 10:45 PM 8/20/01 +1000, you wrote:

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G'day Bob

I have tried the "pig rings on an unstretched bungee and as the rings are
clamped up, they really squeeze down into the bungee
rubber.

I have used this method before and it would appear to be as successful as
lashing with twine.

Thanks for the dimensions on the 9044 rings. I will make mine the same size


That's a great method of getting the bungees into position. I was wondering
just how I would do that.


Regards

Ian Donaldson

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G'day Bob

When I get the bungee rings sorted out, I will post a few pics.

I'm confused with the diameter of the bungee rings! The distance between the
bungee
bolts is 7", and 60% of that is about 4 1/2".

I have made one at 4.5" and it is sure stiff! What diameter would yuo
suggest?

Thankfully the bungee bolts are parallel to each other so installation will
be OK.

I have not yet thought about fairings, but I will.


Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson





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Hi Ian !

You could try marking a length of bungee, then applying
about a 4,500 lb load & seeing how much it stretches, then use
40% of that as the preload factor ....

Or just try, say, 5 1/2" ...... ;-)

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 10:38 PM 8/21/01 +1000, you wrote:

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G'day Bob

When I get the bungee rings sorted out, I will post a few pics.

I'm confused with the diameter of the bungee rings! The distance between the
bungee
bolts is 7", and 60% of that is about 4 1/2".

I have made one at 4.5" and it is sure stiff! What diameter would yuo
suggest?

Thankfully the bungee bolts are parallel to each other so installation will
be OK.

I have not yet thought about fairings, but I will.


Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson


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G'day Bob


Your response gave me a little chuckle!

I will try 51/2".


Regards


Ian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel suspension


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Hi Ian !

You could try marking a length of bungee, then applying
about a 4,500 lb load & seeing how much it stretches, then use
40% of that as the preload factor ....

Or just try, say, 5 1/2" ...... ;-)

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 10:38 PM 8/21/01 +1000, you wrote:

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G'day Bob

When I get the bungee rings sorted out, I will post a few pics.

I'm confused with the diameter of the bungee rings! The distance between

the

bungee
bolts is 7", and 60% of that is about 4 1/2".

I have made one at 4.5" and it is sure stiff! What diameter would yuo
suggest?

Thankfully the bungee bolts are parallel to each other so installation

will

be OK.

I have not yet thought about fairings, but I will.


Regards and thanks

Ian Donaldson

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