Received: from CWS1932@aol.com
by imo20.mx.aol.com (IMOv13.ems) id GRVPa04942
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:01:40 -0500 (EDT)
From: CWS1932 <CWS1932@aol.com>
Message-ID: <79b24d9d.352e2646@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 10:01:40 EDT
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Screwed up wing skin
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 18
For SR-2500 builders with extended tanks................
After seeing previews of the "New - Lost in Space" movie, I want to sound
like
the robot (so you don't screw up a very expensive piece of wing skin:
WARNING
Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Screwed up wing skin
-
Mike Davis
Screwed up wing skin
Received: from tim.intrixsg - 153.35.237.232 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:54:16 -0700
Received: by localhost with Microsoft MAPI; Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:52:49 -0700
Message-ID: <01BD6466.6BCA3E20.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Reply-To: "tlcarter@msn.com" <tlcarter@msn.com>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Screwed up wing skin
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:52:05 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet E-mail/MAPI - 8.0.0.4211
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com
Hi gang:
I screwed up a wing skin on my Rebel, too, all around this business of skin
trimming around the tank . Not a big deal in the final analysis if you
still have the other wing skin in tact, or if the ruined skin is not too
butchered up.
This worked for the Rebel because the RH top wing skin is a mirror if the
LH top wing skin, and the same holds for the bottom skins.
Do this to save $$. A MAM skin for the Rebel is $200 - $250. It is
nothing more than a sheared full sheet run thru their expensive CNC punch.
I made my new ones for $75.00.
Sometimes you will want MAM parts, but here, you can do it yourself.
Here's how:
All wing skins are 12 feet., and all made from 12' x 4' stock. On the
Rebel this is .020 6061-T6. So, order a full sheet from A/C Spruce, or if
you want, order it cut to the proper vertical width from Wicks. Wicks has
a continuous 20' shear, and they are right on the money with whatever cut
you tell them, no cutting fee. A/C Spruce charges an extra $15 for the
cutting.
I ended up ordering my cut a little long just to cover any possible
boo-boos, and, I ended up doing the final trim myself. No big deal.
Now, lay the good skin on the bench on top of the new sheet. Make SURE the
bench is clean and there is no FO on the bench top. That will put a woobie
or a pimple in both sheets immediately when you start drilling. Pay
particular attention to the corners and edge alignments, and line it all up
so that the new sheet material will catch the entire good skin. I found
that the sheets were not cut exactly square, but that was no big deal.
This is the good reason to order the sheet a little long on the vertical,
so you can have a little extra to jockey it around, etc.
Using plenty of 3/32" clecos, match drill the new sheet thru the good skin
on top. I drilled right into the bench top, and cleco'd the sheets right
to it. Drill away.
Now, once that is done, what you have is two of whatever the good skin was.
Flip the freshly drilled sheet end-to-end, and you'll have the mirror for
the 'other' wing.
When flipping the sheets end-to-end, I found this works best: gently take
RH end, and start to move it (like a fold, except no crease keep that loop
wide open!) toward the LH end, letting it slide along the surface of the
skin. When the two ends match up on the LH side you will have sort of a
sideways tear-drop loop of material laying there. Now gently start pulling
the skin that is underneath out towards the RH end of the bench.
This is where you will want your buddy to help. As you gently pull the
underside material out, DO NOT let that material whip out from underneath,
as it will tend to do. That will give you a bonafide eyebrow in the
material. Just control it, and take end out in your hands, and lay it
flat. It will work.
Hope that helps.
Tim
----------
From: CWS1932[SMTP:CWS1932@aol.com]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, April 10, 1998 7:01 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Screwed up wing skin
For SR-2500 builders with extended tanks................
After seeing previews of the "New - Lost in Space" movie, I want to sound
like
the robot (so you don't screw up a very expensive piece of wing skin:
WARNING - WARNING!!!!
The manual calls for trimming the extra bay of wing skin (top and bottom)
in
section 7, however this needs to be done before doing any of the riveting
or
prosealing in section 6. I sent several messages to MAM, and Dennis
confirmed
that this should be done. However, I still managed to screw up a skin. BE
SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE END OF THE SKIN WITH THE DOUBLE ROW OF RIVET HOLES
FACING TOWARD THE ROOT WHEN DRILLING THE OVERLAP HOLES AND TRIMMING. The
skins can be joined for drilling and trimming at either end, and I measured
and measured for correct rib spacing. But learned (after I had trimmed)
that I
had joined them at the wrong end. This leaves your wing skin about 3/4"
too
short at the tip. The solutions???? I guess buy another wing skin (read
big
$$$$$) or possibly overlap a piece in the last bays to extend the skin -
would
look funny, though. Anyway, for those with extended tanks - be careful,
the
manual doesn't mention the orientation and the drawing is so small that it
would be easily missed. An expensive lesson to learn. But fortunately, I
can
use the other wing's skin while I figure out a solution.
One other question while I'm really feeling stupid and depressed - on
testing
tanks - where does one find a pressure gage that reads as low as two to
three
p.s.i., and where do you mount it, and how did you plug the other holes?
Oh, and the other bad news I got the same day was that I owe the government
a
couple thousand dollars in income taxes - what a day!!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SMTPSVC;
Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:54:16 -0700
Received: by localhost with Microsoft MAPI; Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:52:49 -0700
Message-ID: <01BD6466.6BCA3E20.tlcarter@email.msn.com>
From: Tim Carter <tlcarter@email.msn.com>
Reply-To: "tlcarter@msn.com" <tlcarter@msn.com>
To: "'murphy-rebel@dcsol.com'" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Screwed up wing skin
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 09:52:05 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet E-mail/MAPI - 8.0.0.4211
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Return-Path: tlcarter@email.msn.com
Hi gang:
I screwed up a wing skin on my Rebel, too, all around this business of skin
trimming around the tank . Not a big deal in the final analysis if you
still have the other wing skin in tact, or if the ruined skin is not too
butchered up.
This worked for the Rebel because the RH top wing skin is a mirror if the
LH top wing skin, and the same holds for the bottom skins.
Do this to save $$. A MAM skin for the Rebel is $200 - $250. It is
nothing more than a sheared full sheet run thru their expensive CNC punch.
I made my new ones for $75.00.
Sometimes you will want MAM parts, but here, you can do it yourself.
Here's how:
All wing skins are 12 feet., and all made from 12' x 4' stock. On the
Rebel this is .020 6061-T6. So, order a full sheet from A/C Spruce, or if
you want, order it cut to the proper vertical width from Wicks. Wicks has
a continuous 20' shear, and they are right on the money with whatever cut
you tell them, no cutting fee. A/C Spruce charges an extra $15 for the
cutting.
I ended up ordering my cut a little long just to cover any possible
boo-boos, and, I ended up doing the final trim myself. No big deal.
Now, lay the good skin on the bench on top of the new sheet. Make SURE the
bench is clean and there is no FO on the bench top. That will put a woobie
or a pimple in both sheets immediately when you start drilling. Pay
particular attention to the corners and edge alignments, and line it all up
so that the new sheet material will catch the entire good skin. I found
that the sheets were not cut exactly square, but that was no big deal.
This is the good reason to order the sheet a little long on the vertical,
so you can have a little extra to jockey it around, etc.
Using plenty of 3/32" clecos, match drill the new sheet thru the good skin
on top. I drilled right into the bench top, and cleco'd the sheets right
to it. Drill away.
Now, once that is done, what you have is two of whatever the good skin was.
Flip the freshly drilled sheet end-to-end, and you'll have the mirror for
the 'other' wing.
When flipping the sheets end-to-end, I found this works best: gently take
RH end, and start to move it (like a fold, except no crease keep that loop
wide open!) toward the LH end, letting it slide along the surface of the
skin. When the two ends match up on the LH side you will have sort of a
sideways tear-drop loop of material laying there. Now gently start pulling
the skin that is underneath out towards the RH end of the bench.
This is where you will want your buddy to help. As you gently pull the
underside material out, DO NOT let that material whip out from underneath,
as it will tend to do. That will give you a bonafide eyebrow in the
material. Just control it, and take end out in your hands, and lay it
flat. It will work.
Hope that helps.
Tim
----------
From: CWS1932[SMTP:CWS1932@aol.com]
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Friday, April 10, 1998 7:01 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Screwed up wing skin
For SR-2500 builders with extended tanks................
After seeing previews of the "New - Lost in Space" movie, I want to sound
like
the robot (so you don't screw up a very expensive piece of wing skin:
WARNING - WARNING!!!!
The manual calls for trimming the extra bay of wing skin (top and bottom)
in
section 7, however this needs to be done before doing any of the riveting
or
prosealing in section 6. I sent several messages to MAM, and Dennis
confirmed
that this should be done. However, I still managed to screw up a skin. BE
SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE END OF THE SKIN WITH THE DOUBLE ROW OF RIVET HOLES
FACING TOWARD THE ROOT WHEN DRILLING THE OVERLAP HOLES AND TRIMMING. The
skins can be joined for drilling and trimming at either end, and I measured
and measured for correct rib spacing. But learned (after I had trimmed)
that I
had joined them at the wrong end. This leaves your wing skin about 3/4"
too
short at the tip. The solutions???? I guess buy another wing skin (read
big
$$$$$) or possibly overlap a piece in the last bays to extend the skin -
would
look funny, though. Anyway, for those with extended tanks - be careful,
the
manual doesn't mention the orientation and the drawing is so small that it
would be easily missed. An expensive lesson to learn. But fortunately, I
can
use the other wing's skin while I figure out a solution.
One other question while I'm really feeling stupid and depressed - on
testing
tanks - where does one find a pressure gage that reads as low as two to
three
p.s.i., and where do you mount it, and how did you plug the other holes?
Oh, and the other bad news I got the same day was that I owe the government
a
couple thousand dollars in income taxes - what a day!!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Mike Davis
Screwed up wing skin
Received: from d.james (ba1p16.planeteer.com [204.50.144.49])
by toronto.planeteer.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id OAA11595
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <352FB968.C355CE0F@planeteer.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:41:44 -0400
From: David James <dmjames@planeteer.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Screwed up wing skin
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
References: <79b24d9d.352e2646@aol.com>
X-Corel-MessageType: EMail
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by toronto.planeteer.com
id OAA11595
CWS1932 wrote:
snip
way, measure the diameter and wait, any leak will be evident is short
order, if you are going to wait overnight or langer you have to factor
in changes in barometric pressure.
David James, Rebel 228
BMW K100 Power
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
by toronto.planeteer.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id OAA11595
for <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <352FB968.C355CE0F@planeteer.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 14:41:44 -0400
From: David James <dmjames@planeteer.com>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: " (Murphy Rebel)" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Screwed up wing skin
X-Priority: 3 (Normal)
References: <79b24d9d.352e2646@aol.com>
X-Corel-MessageType: EMail
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by toronto.planeteer.com
id OAA11595
CWS1932 wrote:
snip
Most people are using a balloon, use enough pressure to inflate it 1/2One other question while I'm really feeling stupid and depressed =96 on
testing
tanks =96 where does one find a pressure gage that reads as low as two
to three
p.s.i., and where do you mount it, and how did you plug the other
holes?
way, measure the diameter and wait, any leak will be evident is short
order, if you are going to wait overnight or langer you have to factor
in changes in barometric pressure.
David James, Rebel 228
BMW K100 Power
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
