The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Jean: The tail cone floor is not really structural so I guess any
fastening method would be O.K. Personally I prefer to rivet for simplicity
and strength. I did chromate all interior surfaces before close up and also
added two drain holes in front of each cross member. That way any
condensation that may build up has a way out and would also ventilate while
flying. Sounds like your making good progress - Bob J - Rebel192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: <jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] fuselage cone... inner floor...

Hello!

I am doing the floor channel of the fuselage cone.... When the floor
skin will be fix, the "boxes" will be good trap for humidity!?! Should
I
make some holes in the channels to let the air circulate? The manual
ask for riveted floor skin... is it ok or is it better to use screw with
tinnerman?

Jean
Rebel 747R




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Yup rivets are cheap, quick, and don't fall out.
Some inspectors apparently like to see water drain holes and some 1/8"
holes are a good idea. A surprising amount of water comes out of some
cessna's when you poke something into those drain holes to unplug the
accumulated dirt.
I primed before closing the tailcone floor as well and I didn't worry
about holes in the channels back there. However I did put some 3/4"
holes in some of the channels farther forward where I added a bunch of
extra channels and wanted a bit more ventilation.
Ken

jean.poirier@oxyportneuf.com wrote:

Hello!

I am doing the floor channel of the fuselage cone.... When the floor skin will be fix, the "boxes" will be good trap for humidity!?! Should I
make some holes in the channels to let the air circulate? The manual ask for riveted floor skin... is it ok or is it better to use screw with
tinnerman?

Jean
Rebel 747R

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