[rebel-builders] Rebel -Dimpled rivet assemblies
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:12 am
Hi Charlie !
You've certainly done a lot of work ! It's your airplane,
and you should do what you think is best, but there's never been
a problem with the countersunk Avex rivets on the Rebel.
You ARE following the recommended practice, and dipping the rivets
in EP-430 epoxy primer before installing .... if so, there's virtually
no chance they'll turn when set.
If it makes you feel better, you can use solid rivets everywhere,
but all it will mean is more work .... but keep rivetting ! You
will really LOVE the Rebel when you get it flying !! :-)
--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 24 September 2006 12:06 pm, Charlie Eubanks wrote:
have built three other metal aircraft before that used mostly the solid AN
type rivets. Rebel's all Avex blind rivets are a lot easer but I have
encountered a couple of places where I think solid rivets should be
considered. For example the dimpled outboard ribs and skin of the rudder and
elevators. I didn't just want to arbitrarily replace the Avex rivets with out
giving it some thought and studying the available data. The manual talks a
little bit about edge distance, maximum grip length and displays a chart of
all the rivets used in the kit. It really does not get into the design data
of their rivets. I downloaded some data from www.avdel.trextron.com which
revealed that the 120* countersunk rivet RV- 4412 has a grip range of .093
Min. to .250 Max. I am sure a number of you have already done this, but I
made up a few test cou
rivets and drove two 1/8 x 1/4 solid rivets. In this sample I band sawed
through the rivets centers, sanded and polish the sawed edge to get a good
look at the cross section of the assembly. The rivets all looked good except
the RV-4412. In the other sample I dimpled 4 holes and pulled 4 more RV4412
rivets. I found the countersunk rivets could (with some effort) be rotated by
hand between the thumb and index finger. I am not a student of the entire
manual yet so I don't know if their or other thin, dimpled assemblies where
this rivet is called for but after seeing this I have decided to use AN type
rivets in these type of assemblies.
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You've certainly done a lot of work ! It's your airplane,
and you should do what you think is best, but there's never been
a problem with the countersunk Avex rivets on the Rebel.
You ARE following the recommended practice, and dipping the rivets
in EP-430 epoxy primer before installing .... if so, there's virtually
no chance they'll turn when set.
If it makes you feel better, you can use solid rivets everywhere,
but all it will mean is more work .... but keep rivetting ! You
will really LOVE the Rebel when you get it flying !! :-)
--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Sunday 24 September 2006 12:06 pm, Charlie Eubanks wrote:
ailerons, flaps and the rudder and am presently working on the elevators. IHello All
I am just getting a good start on building my Rebel. I have completed the
have built three other metal aircraft before that used mostly the solid AN
type rivets. Rebel's all Avex blind rivets are a lot easer but I have
encountered a couple of places where I think solid rivets should be
considered. For example the dimpled outboard ribs and skin of the rudder and
elevators. I didn't just want to arbitrarily replace the Avex rivets with out
giving it some thought and studying the available data. The manual talks a
little bit about edge distance, maximum grip length and displays a chart of
all the rivets used in the kit. It really does not get into the design data
of their rivets. I downloaded some data from www.avdel.trextron.com which
revealed that the 120* countersunk rivet RV- 4412 has a grip range of .093
Min. to .250 Max. I am sure a number of you have already done this, but I
made up a few test cou
dimpled. I then pulled two RV-1410 domed rivets, two 120* RV-4412 countersunkpons of two pieces of .020 thick
aluminum each, In one I drilled six # 30 holes, two of these holes I
rivets and drove two 1/8 x 1/4 solid rivets. In this sample I band sawed
through the rivets centers, sanded and polish the sawed edge to get a good
look at the cross section of the assembly. The rivets all looked good except
the RV-4412. In the other sample I dimpled 4 holes and pulled 4 more RV4412
rivets. I found the countersunk rivets could (with some effort) be rotated by
hand between the thumb and index finger. I am not a student of the entire
manual yet so I don't know if their or other thin, dimpled assemblies where
this rivet is called for but after seeing this I have decided to use AN type
rivets in these type of assemblies.
Charlie E. Rebel 802R
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