The Murphy Builders Site

Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area. 2)Get rid of
the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method of bolting
two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to flex to
accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until the wings are
on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating the torque
tubes.

I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine the way it
is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing, it has never
seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at pictures of
Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the flap/aileron
mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the idea that
you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap, er... Moosetrap?
Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the ceiling a
la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to face forward
with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel flaperon
bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose aileron
torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with pushrods back
to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns would need to
be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current position, and be
shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds pretty cool
to me.
Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area. 2)Get rid of
the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method of bolting
two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to flex to
accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until the wings are
on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating the torque
tubes.
Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am interested in how
well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part #s too if
it goes that far.
Thanks.
Jesse

Hi Jesse !

"Leave it alone, it works fine the way it is" !!! :-)

The Moose setup is completely different, and will never match
the control response you will get with the standard Rebel setup.
This is not a slight to the Moose, it's a different airplane, with
different needs & control loads - using 747 ailerons wouldn't be
pretty either ! ;-)

You will add at least 6 months to your build time (every change
...)AND you will end up with an oddball Rebel that will be that
much
harder to sell one day. You are adding a lot of extra complexity,
still need a cable, and springs, and will have less control response.

"JUST GET IT FLYING !!!!" :-)

(You can always tinker later ....)

Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.

1) Just put a plate of 1/8" Lexan over the mixer area -
keeps stuff
out, and lets you inspect easily. 2) The Teleflex cable is easy,
simple,inexpensive, and works just fine 3) If you build it right
(1 degree DH),
there shouldn't be noticeable flex - over 15 years without problems
4) They might line up better if the wings are on first ! ;-)


Just couldn't resist !! ;-) :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 08 September 2006 05:19 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine

the way it

is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing,

it has never

seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at

pictures of

Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the

flap/aileron

mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the

idea that

you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap,

er... Moosetrap?

Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the

ceiling a

la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to

face forward

with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel

flaperon

bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose

aileron

torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with

pushrods back

to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns

would need to

be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current

position, and be

shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds

pretty cool

to me.
Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.
Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am

interested in how

well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part

#s too if

it goes that far.
Thanks.
Jesse

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From: WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 15:29:59 -0700

I'm with Bob on this one. I just have the stock MAM set-up and wouldn't
change a thing if I was building again, other than maybe the dog leg
handle. Has always done the job for me, and is light, simple and out of the
way, but very easy to reach and use inflight. I cram stuff in the back of
mine all the time, and just try to make sure that I don't affect the
operation of the push rods, but again never had a problem. And don't worry
about the slop in the system, as it has no bad effects when flying. If
anything, it helps, in that at higher speeds there is some give on the
flaperons so you don't overstress them or the hinges. And when you slow
down, you gain maximum deflection on the flaps which is exactly what you
want when you land. I have my float pump between the seats with the handle
forward, and that works great, too, so have nothing behind my seats to get
in the way of baggage.

There are a lot of other more important changes on the Rebel that I would
worry about, and focus my efforts on those. Why change something that
doesn't need changing?

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <beep@sympatico.ca>
Date: Friday, September 8, 2006 2:50 pm
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose

Hi Jesse !

"Leave it alone, it works fine the way it is" !!! :-)

The Moose setup is completely different, and will never match
the control response you will get with the standard Rebel setup.
This is not a slight to the Moose, it's a different airplane, with
different needs & control loads - using 747 ailerons wouldn't be
pretty either ! ;-)

You will add at least 6 months to your build time (every change
...)AND you will end up with an oddball Rebel that will be that
much
harder to sell one day. You are adding a lot of extra complexity,
still need a cable, and springs, and will have less control response.

"JUST GET IT FLYING !!!!" :-)

(You can always tinker later ....)

Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.

1) Just put a plate of 1/8" Lexan over the mixer area -
keeps stuff
out, and lets you inspect easily. 2) The Teleflex cable is easy,
simple,inexpensive, and works just fine 3) If you build it right
(1 degree DH),
there shouldn't be noticeable flex - over 15 years without problems
4) They might line up better if the wings are on first ! ;-)


Just couldn't resist !! ;-) :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 08 September 2006 05:19 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine

the way it

is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing,

it has never

seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at

pictures of

Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the

flap/aileron

mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the

idea that

you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap,

er... Moosetrap?

Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the

ceiling a

la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to

face forward

with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel

flaperon

bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose

aileron

torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with

pushrods back

to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns

would need to

be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current

position, and be

shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds

pretty cool

to me.
Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.
Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am

interested in how

well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part

#s too if

it goes that far.
Thanks.
Jesse

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From: WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 15:29:59 -0700

I'm with Bob on this one. I just have the stock MAM set-up and wouldn't
change a thing if I was building again, other than maybe the dog leg
handle. Has always done the job for me, and is light, simple and out of the

way, but very easy to reach and use inflight. I cram stuff in the back of
mine all the time, and just try to make sure that I don't affect the
operation of the push rods, but again never had a problem. And don't worry
about the slop in the system, as it has no bad effects when flying. If
anything, it helps, in that at higher speeds there is some give on the
flaperons so you don't overstress them or the hinges. And when you slow
down, you gain maximum deflection on the flaps which is exactly what you
want when you land. I have my float pump between the seats with the handle
forward, and that works great, too, so have nothing behind my seats to get
in the way of baggage.

There are a lot of other more important changes on the Rebel that I would
worry about, and focus my efforts on those. Why change something that
doesn't need changing?

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <beep@sympatico.ca>
Date: Friday, September 8, 2006 2:50 pm
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose

Hi Jesse !

"Leave it alone, it works fine the way it is" !!! :-)

The Moose setup is completely different, and will never match
the control response you will get with the standard Rebel setup.
This is not a slight to the Moose, it's a different airplane, with
different needs & control loads - using 747 ailerons wouldn't be
pretty either ! ;-)

You will add at least 6 months to your build time (every change
...)AND you will end up with an oddball Rebel that will be that
much
harder to sell one day. You are adding a lot of extra complexity,
still need a cable, and springs, and will have less control response.

"JUST GET IT FLYING !!!!" :-)

(You can always tinker later ....)

Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.

1) Just put a plate of 1/8" Lexan over the mixer area -
keeps stuff
out, and lets you inspect easily. 2) The Teleflex cable is easy,
simple,inexpensive, and works just fine 3) If you build it right
(1 degree DH),
there shouldn't be noticeable flex - over 15 years without problems
4) They might line up better if the wings are on first ! ;-)


Just couldn't resist !! ;-) :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 08 September 2006 05:19 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine

the way it

is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing,

it has never

seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at

pictures of

Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the

flap/aileron

mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the

idea that

you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap,

er... Moosetrap?

Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the

ceiling a

la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to

face forward

with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel

flaperon

bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose

aileron

torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with

pushrods back

to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns

would need to

be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current

position, and be

shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds

pretty cool

to me.
Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.
Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am

interested in how

well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part

#s too if

it goes that far.
Thanks.
Jesse

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-----------------------------------------------------------------

As for adding building time with making changes: I have added a year to my
building time by just reading all these posts! I've picked up invaluable
info,
but am now addicted to reading all the posts ... I put off starting the
floats
waiting for a rumored CD. The tools are in place, the work table is built,
the
complete kit (rebel and amphibs) are sitting and waiting. Now if I could
just
make that first "Sharpie" mark on a piece of aluminum I might break the
trance.

As for adding building time with making changes: I have added a year to my
building time by just reading all these posts! I've picked up invaluable info,
but am now addicted to reading all the posts ... I put off starting the floats
waiting for a rumored CD. The tools are in place, the work table is built, the
complete kit (rebel and amphibs) are sitting and waiting. Now if I could just
make that first "Sharpie" mark on a piece of aluminum I might break the
trance.
On 9/8/2006 8:58 PM, mkimball@gci.net wrote to rebel-builders:

-> Or do like I did and put the flap handle on the roof then turn the
-> flap/aileron mixer block around and attach it to a servo. Aileron droop is
-> completely under the control of the pilot, separate from flap deflection.
-> Pictures and a drawing of the system are in the archives. Of course,
-> applicability to other than a Super Rebel/Moose is unknown.
->
-> On the other hand, I agree with the others. The Rebel is a well proven
-> great design. Just leave it alone. My mods have added at least three
years
-> to my build.
->
-> Mike
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jesse
-> Jenks
-> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:22 PM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
->
->
-> Ok, thanks guys. I just thought it would be cool to have everything in the
-> ceiling, but I know it's like I said...crazy. If I knew an engineer I would
-> check it out more, but I guess I'll give it up.
-> Jesse
->
-> >From: WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
-> >Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
-> >Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 15:29:59 -0700
-> >
-> >I'm with Bob on this one. I just have the stock MAM set-up and wouldn't
-> >change a thing if I was building again, other than maybe the dog leg
-> >handle. Has always done the job for me, and is light, simple and out of
the
->
-> >way, but very easy to reach and use inflight. I cram stuff in the back of
-> >mine all the time, and just try to make sure that I don't affect the
-> >operation of the push rods, but again never had a problem. And don't
worry
-> >about the slop in the system, as it has no bad effects when flying. If
-> >anything, it helps, in that at higher speeds there is some give on the
-> >flaperons so you don't overstress them or the hinges. And when you slow
-> >down, you gain maximum deflection on the flaps which is exactly what
you
-> >want when you land. I have my float pump between the seats with the
handle
-> >forward, and that works great, too, so have nothing behind my seats to
get
-> >in the way of baggage.
-> >
-> >There are a lot of other more important changes on the Rebel that I
would
-> >worry about, and focus my efforts on those. Why change something that
-> >doesn't need changing?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >----- Original Message -----
-> >From: Bob Patterson <beep@sympatico.ca>
-> >Date: Friday, September 8, 2006 2:50 pm
-> >Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
-> >
-> > >
-> > > Hi Jesse !
-> > >
-> > > "Leave it alone, it works fine the way it is" !!! :-)
-> > >
-> > > The Moose setup is completely different, and will never match
-> > > the control response you will get with the standard Rebel setup.
-> > > This is not a slight to the Moose, it's a different airplane, with
-> > > different needs & control loads - using 747 ailerons wouldn't be
-> > > pretty either ! ;-)
-> > >
-> > > You will add at least 6 months to your build time (every change
-> > > ...)AND you will end up with an oddball Rebel that will be that
-> > > much
-> > > harder to sell one day. You are adding a lot of extra complexity,
-> > > still need a cable, and springs, and will have less control response.
-> > >
-> > > "JUST GET IT FLYING !!!!" :-)
-> > >
-> > > (You can always tinker later ....)
-> > >
-> > > > Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.
-> > > 2)Get rid of
-> > > > the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method
-> > > of bolting
-> > > > two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to
-> > > flex to
-> > > > accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until
-> > > the wings are
-> > > > on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating
-> > > the torque
-> > > > tubes.
-> > >
-> > > 1) Just put a plate of 1/8" Lexan over the mixer area -
-> > > keeps stuff
-> > > out, and lets you inspect easily. 2) The Teleflex cable is easy,
-> > > simple,inexpensive, and works just fine 3) If you build it right
-> > > (1 degree DH),
-> > > there shouldn't be noticeable flex - over 15 years without problems
-> > > 4) They might line up better if the wings are on first ! ;-)
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > Just couldn't resist !! ;-) :-)
-> > >
-> > > --
-> > > ......bobp
-> > > http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
-> > > http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
-> > > http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com
-> > >
-> > > -------------------------------orig.-------------------------
-> > > On Friday 08 September 2006 05:19 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:
-> > > > I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine
-> > > the way it
-> > > > is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing,
-> > > it has never
-> > > > seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at
-> > > pictures of
-> > > > Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the
-> > > flap/aileron
-> > > > mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the
-> > > idea that
-> > > > you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap,
-> > > er... Moosetrap?
-> > > > Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the
-> > > ceiling a
-> > > > la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to
-> > > face forward
-> > > > with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel
-> > > flaperon
-> > > > bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose
-> > > aileron
-> > > > torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with
-> > > pushrods back
-> > > > to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns
-> > > would need to
-> > > > be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current
-> > > position, and be
-> > > > shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds
-> > > pretty cool
-> > > > to me.
-> > > > Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.
-> > > 2)Get rid of
-> > > > the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method
-> > > of bolting
-> > > > two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to
-> > > flex to
-> > > > accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until
-> > > the wings are
-> > > > on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating
-> > > the torque
-> > > > tubes.
-> > > > Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am
-> > > interested in how
-> > > > well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part
-> > > #s too if
-> > > > it goes that far.
-> > > > Thanks.
-> > > > Jesse
-> > > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> > >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
->
->
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->
->





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As for adding building time with making changes: I have added a year to my
building time by just reading all these posts! I've picked up invaluable info,
but am now addicted to reading all the posts ... I put off starting the floats
waiting for a rumored CD. The tools are in place, the work table is built, the
complete kit (rebel and amphibs) are sitting and waiting. Now if I could just
make that first "Sharpie" mark on a piece of aluminum I might break the
trance.

eric.r@dcsol.com wrote:

As for adding building time with making changes: I have added a year to my
building time by just reading all these posts! I've picked up invaluable

but am now addicted to reading all the posts ... I put off starting the

waiting for a rumored CD. The tools are in place, the work table is

complete kit (rebel and amphibs) are sitting and waiting. Now if I could

make that first "Sharpie" mark on a piece of aluminum I might break the
trance.

Most guys build the plane first Eric then they build the floats at their
leisure while flying on wheels and enjoying the fruits of their labour :) I
figure each float was about the same work as building the fuselage and
they're not much good without a plane to put them on. Plus you have to
store them somewhere and they take up a ton of space.
Drew

From: WALTER KLATT <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 15:29:59 -0700

I'm with Bob on this one. I just have the stock MAM set-up and wouldn't
change a thing if I was building again, other than maybe the dog leg
handle. Has always done the job for me, and is light, simple and out of the

way, but very easy to reach and use inflight. I cram stuff in the back of
mine all the time, and just try to make sure that I don't affect the
operation of the push rods, but again never had a problem. And don't worry
about the slop in the system, as it has no bad effects when flying. If
anything, it helps, in that at higher speeds there is some give on the
flaperons so you don't overstress them or the hinges. And when you slow
down, you gain maximum deflection on the flaps which is exactly what you
want when you land. I have my float pump between the seats with the handle
forward, and that works great, too, so have nothing behind my seats to get
in the way of baggage.

There are a lot of other more important changes on the Rebel that I would
worry about, and focus my efforts on those. Why change something that
doesn't need changing?

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <beep@sympatico.ca>
Date: Friday, September 8, 2006 2:50 pm
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] My latest crazy idea Rebel/Moose

Hi Jesse !

"Leave it alone, it works fine the way it is" !!! :-)

The Moose setup is completely different, and will never match
the control response you will get with the standard Rebel setup.
This is not a slight to the Moose, it's a different airplane, with
different needs & control loads - using 747 ailerons wouldn't be
pretty either ! ;-)

You will add at least 6 months to your build time (every change
...)AND you will end up with an oddball Rebel that will be that
much
harder to sell one day. You are adding a lot of extra complexity,
still need a cable, and springs, and will have less control response.

"JUST GET IT FLYING !!!!" :-)

(You can always tinker later ....)

Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.

1) Just put a plate of 1/8" Lexan over the mixer area -
keeps stuff
out, and lets you inspect easily. 2) The Teleflex cable is easy,
simple,inexpensive, and works just fine 3) If you build it right
(1 degree DH),
there shouldn't be noticeable flex - over 15 years without problems
4) They might line up better if the wings are on first ! ;-)


Just couldn't resist !! ;-) :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.qbeautyzone.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Friday 08 September 2006 05:19 pm, Jesse Jenks wrote:

I can hear Bob P already saying "leave it alone, it works fine

the way it

is". Ok here goes anyway. Regarding the Rebel flaperon mixing,

it has never

seemed like the most elegant solution to me. While looking at

pictures of

Moose on Scott Aldrichs' site, I had the thought that the

flap/aileron

mixing system on the Moose is a bit more refined. It gave me the

idea that

you could use some Moose parts and make a better mousetrap,

er... Moosetrap?

Anyway, here it is: run cables from the control column up to the

ceiling a

la Moose. Use the Moose flap/aileron mixer, turned around to

face forward

with a short linkage forward to the flap handle. Use the Rebel

flaperon

bellcrank to maintain the geometry, with pushrods back to Moose

aileron

torque tubes. These would exit the cabin about mid chord, with

pushrods back

to the flaperon torque tubes. The flaperon torque tube horns

would need to

be replaced or modified to end up 90* from their current

position, and be

shortened. Of course the devil is in the details, but it sounds

pretty cool

to me.
Why? you ask. 1)Keep controls out of the baggage/jumpseat area.

2)Get rid of

the Teleflex cable. 3) Eliminate the rather crude (IMO) method

of bolting

two control horns together at the wing root and forcing them to

flex to

accommodate for the dihedral angle. 4)Not having to wait until

the wings are

on to finish the cabin flight control installation ie locating

the torque

tubes.
Any comments appreciated. You Moose guys as well. I am

interested in how

well the flap/aileron mixer works in the Moose. I will need part

#s too if

it goes that far.
Thanks.
Jesse

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