The Murphy Builders Site

All

I've reached the stage in the building of the aileron assembly where I need
to "disassemble and deburr all parts".

This is the first deburring I've had to do and I was wondering if anyone
could offer some advice....

Does this include ALL the factory edges, ie: edges of the aileron spars,
ribs, lightening holes, and ALL those little 'finger' flanges on the leading
edge ribs,etc? For the most part the factory edges feel pretty smooth to me.

OR do I just deburr the holes I've drilled and the edges I've cut?

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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By all means deburr everything. You don't want any rough edges to have a
place for a crack to start later in the life of your bird. I also give you
a good inspection of the bends and radis to make sure they don't to be
stress relived.

At 11:55 AM 2/21/2000 -0800, you wrote:

All

I've reached the stage in the building of the aileron assembly where I need
to "disassemble and deburr all parts".

This is the first deburring I've had to do and I was wondering if anyone
could offer some advice....

Does this include ALL the factory edges, ie: edges of the aileron spars,
ribs, lightening holes, and ALL those little 'finger' flanges on the leading
edge ribs,etc? For the most part the factory edges feel pretty smooth to me.

OR do I just deburr the holes I've drilled and the edges I've cut?

Roger #687R
Eugene, OR USA

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Doug Martin
greyghost@powernet.net
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Hi

De-burring means just that. Any surface, edge, hole etc, be they factory
generated or done by the builder, requires deburring attention if when
you run a finger over it, you can feel roughness or any lack of
smoothness. The process of drilling or cutting of metal usually leaves
disturbed material which needs to be taken care of. A simple deburring
tool in thge case of drilled holes or a fine file for cut edges is
usually sufficient. REMEMBER TO PRIME SUCH WORK if mating surfaces are
to be made.

Good luck with your project. Mine is comming down the finish path with
only a few more months before first flight.

Bob Hayos
Southern CA.

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Hi There

I agree that all edges should be deburred as it is good practice & can avoid
nasty cuts etc. when handling material when your mind is somewhere else. I
had my worst cut on the stainless steel firewall when I was simply moving it
around the room. On the ailerons, where fabric is going to be in contact
when the aluminium, I think one would not think twice about deburring for
the sake of the damage that could be done on the fabric.

And when you think about the many hours you are spending all alone
deburring, & deburring, & deburring, you can comfort yourself with the
thought "Wow, just about all the weight I am saving on this airplane". It
didn't really work for me, but, I did radius & deburr most everything
forward of the tail group.

Happy building. This airplane is worth it. Just think about flying your
most favourite airplane & then double your smile!

Best Regards


Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Norma J. Hayos [mailto:bobnorma@juno.com]
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 4:03 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Deburring


Hi

De-burring means just that. Any surface, edge, hole etc, be they factory
generated or done by the builder, requires deburring attention if when
you run a finger over it, you can feel roughness or any lack of
smoothness. The process of drilling or cutting of metal usually leaves
disturbed material which needs to be taken care of. A simple deburring
tool in thge case of drilled holes or a fine file for cut edges is
usually sufficient. REMEMBER TO PRIME SUCH WORK if mating surfaces are
to be made.

Good luck with your project. Mine is comming down the finish path with
only a few more months before first flight.

Bob Hayos
Southern CA.

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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I've got two different "hook" style deburrers--they both worked OK but I
still wanted something better. My EAA chapter president (RV builder) loaned
me his deburring tool from Avery Tools (www.averytools.com) and I like it.
Don't think that it will solve your time problem--you WILL get tired of
using it also, but it's better than the drill bit (which I've also used).

About the primer, I've been using the zinc chromate two-part epoxy primer
from Aircraft Spruce--seems to work fine.

What are you building?

Rick Besecker
Fresno, CA
Murphy SR2500 178SR-1 (working on the wings)



<Nielsenbe@aol.com> wrote in message news:a5.3bc04ea6.2c254639@aol.com...

What method do you guys find the most efficient for deburring? I tried one

of

those hook style tools with the plastic handle and v shaped cutter. It was
either not cutting or gauging. I am just using a larger drill bit for

right now

but just doing the 1200 or so chamfer edges on just the horizontal stab
doublers is taking a long time.

Second question, what primer should I get and where do you order it from?

I

am hoping someone is selling it at the Rocky Mountian EAA flyin next

weekend.

Thanks, Brad

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What method do you guys find the most efficient for deburring? I tried one of
those hook style tools with the plastic handle and v shaped cutter. It was
either not cutting or gauging. I am just using a larger drill bit for right now
but just doing the 1200 or so chamfer edges on just the horizontal stab
doublers is taking a long time.

Second question, what primer should I get and where do you order it from? I
am hoping someone is selling it at the Rocky Mountian EAA flyin next weekend.

Thanks, Brad



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working on SR222 slowly slowly slowly.

Brad
in Denver



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My co-builder wife is the deburring queen so I will pass on her tooling
choices. Get both the 4" and 12" single flute tools with a hex shaft
for electric screwdrivers. These have a single hole drilled diagonally
through the taper and do not "hog" metal. Get two electric screwdrivers
as well. The swiveling carbide cutter mounted in a cylindrical handle
works well but will take a deft touch. It will cut easier in one
direction than the other. Larger holes can be done with a 3 flute
cutter on a swivel holder or drill bit.

There is a "blind" deburring tool available that does both sides of the
hole in one pass. These are mucho expensive new but places like the
Boeing surplus store have them used at considerable saving. The cutter
is spring loaded and fragile but where needed they work great. Sizes
#30 and #11 are all you need.

Files are also useful with a 6" fine mill file and a 12" vixen being
most useful. The small milll file is for flat ares with difficult
access and the vixen for long sections which can easily be filed
straight after cutting.

Scotchbrite wheels and pads are also useful for some applications such
as rib holes.

It is important that only deburring be done. Do not chamfer or remove
any more than the barest metal to eliminate burrs or nicks.
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (wiring and plumbing)



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Hi Brad !

The swivel deburring tool, with the curved blade will work
well for sheets - it does take a bit of practice, though. Move
quickly and lightly with it.

For holes, several have had good results using a wood bit
for countersinking 1/2" holes, chucked into a slow-turning electric
screwdriver. It only takes a gentle touch - you don't want to
countersink the hole, just take off the burr. A good test is to
rub a nylon stocking over the sheet - if it catches, more work !

The factory has always strongly recommended using the
PolyFiber Epoxy Primer (EP-430 ??). It is VERY important to
brush it on and assemble the parts WHILE IT IS STILL WET !!
This will 'bond' the parts together, fill any gaps, and completely
prevent corrosion, by keeping water out.

Wipe parts with PolyFiber Metal-Sol, or acetone, first,
to degrease, scuff lightly with a ScotchBrite pad if you want,
then brush on the Epoxy Primer, and stick together.

You should also dip the ends of the rivets in the EP-430
before inserting & pulling them - wet again. Just dip about 1/8"
though - too much will make a mess and possibly glue your rivet
gun jaws together ! ;-) This is especially important for the
Stainless Steel rivets, to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion.

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.-----------------------------
At 01:25 AM 6/21/03 EDT, you wrote:

What method do you guys find the most efficient for deburring? I tried one of
those hook style tools with the plastic handle and v shaped cutter. It was
either not cutting or gauging. I am just using a larger drill bit for right

now

but just doing the 1200 or so chamfer edges on just the horizontal stab
doublers is taking a long time.

Second question, what primer should I get and where do you order it from? I
am hoping someone is selling it at the Rocky Mountian EAA flyin next weekend.

Thanks, Brad



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Now that I'm into this project finally, I was wondering what is the best
way to debur all those holes in the skins. It seems the flute type
cutter could easily over do it on something that thin. How about a
scuffing with emery paper or skotch brite? What works out there?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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Mike

Lots of us are using a drill bit in an battery powered screwdriver. They
are typically slow & not too powerful so you can regulate how much you take
off.

Scotchbrite EXL deburring wheels that you can get from MSC Industrial Supply
are good for edges of ribs & spars etc. Put them in an air powered die
grinder at low pressure and you'd be surprised how much work they can save
and do a great job too. Get the 990S trial pack, it comes with an
assortment of wheels & mandrels. We use the 1" and 3" wheels in 2S fine
grade a lot, don't know what we did without them!

Cheers,

Dave

Mike Betti wrote:

Now that I'm into this project finally, I was wondering what is the best
way to debur all those holes in the skins. It seems the flute type
cutter could easily over do it on something that thin. How about a
scuffing with emery paper or skotch brite? What works out there?
Thanks,
Mike Betti

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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Mike,
First, you are right to be concerned about "over deburring". The idea
is to deburr, not champfer. For the many skin holes and reachable
places I suggest the single flute deburring tools with a 1/4" hex shank.
Get one in short length and one about 12" long. Buy two electric screw
drivers to turn them. They can be sharpened with emery cloth pulled
through the single hole. Also get a small cutter type to do the real
tight places. There are some that can only be reached with a flat file
or curved needle file. You will find them!
Ralph Baker



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Mike,

In addition to the methods already mentioned and following a MAM suggestion,
I used a piece of old dull broken flat file, hold it flat to the surface
and move it over the holes. I rounded the corners of the file a bit so as
not to scratch the surface. I believe some builders are using very high
speed drills (30K RPM?) that do not leave burrs.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Betti" <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 11:29 PM
Subject: Deburring

Now that I'm into this project finally, I was wondering what is the best
way to debur all those holes in the skins. It seems the flute type
cutter could easily over do it on something that thin. How about a
scuffing with emery paper or skotch brite? What works out there?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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I simply used a drill bit (about 5/16 I think) spun with my fingers for all
holes up to 3/16. For holes larger than that I used a deburring tool that
you can get from Aircraft Spruce. It has replaceable blades and you use the
tool to spin the blade around the hole. Works great. With practice you can
even use it to deburr the blind side of a hole.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Betti
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2005 7:29 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Deburring


Now that I'm into this project finally, I was wondering what is the best
way to debur all those holes in the skins. It seems the flute type
cutter could easily over do it on something that thin. How about a
scuffing with emery paper or skotch brite? What works out there?
Thanks,
Mike Betti



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I would also add that for skins I use a dowel handle and turn the tool by
hand. On thicker material a battery powered screwdriver works well, but be
careful.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: deburring

be careful using this deburing tool that is spring loaded and does both
sides of material
yes it works great when it works but as it is used and gets dirty or
slightly bent it jams an then cuts a hole to big for a 1/8 rivet, i had
this
happen and had to use alot of 5/32 rivets on some parts, but when it work
good it was great just watch it very closely or you have problems and you
may not notice till you go to rivet
can be purchased at aircraft tool supply company for 79.95, here is link
to
page, called two-way deburring toll #td001

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/searc ... x?PageNo=3
mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of Al
Paxhia
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 1:13 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: deburring


I did top and bottom holes and would recommend it. There is a slick
deburing

tool that has a spring loaded cutter, debur the top, push it through and
debur the bottom. Ill dig around and find the source (I got mine from
Boeing

Surplus several years ago).
Al
Moose, N526AP
----- Original Message -----
From: <mbetti@up.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 5:52 AM
Subject: deburring

I don't want to sound stupid but I would like to clarify something on
deburing skins. I'm on the stab and figure I can pass on what I learn
here

to the rest of the project. After drilling the stab skin to final size
I'm

getting ready to debur. The 5/16 drill bit by hand works great and is
fast

for the bottom of the hole. My question is the top of the skin, it seems
the holes are pretty clean already. I can rub my finger over them and
don't really notice any raised edges. I'm using a pretty fast air drill.
Do I still need to put a little chamfer on them too? Is the group here
still running a bit over all those clean holes on the skins or is this
probably acceptable.
Thanks,
Mike Betti
771E



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