[rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket

Robert and Olga Johnson · Post by **Robert and Olga Johnson** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:03 am

Hi Jesse: I ran into this on two of the Rebels I built. I made up brackets
with double bends of 45 deg to miss the existing 3/16 rivets already in
place. There really is not enough room to remove and reuse the existing 3/16
rivets as you will see they are close to the bottom of the fus 27. The
corner gussets cover everything up late anyway and also add to the strength.
Bob J Rebel 192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:19 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket

How do you fit the 90 degree bracket between the bottom of fus 27 and the
door post? The bottom leg of the bracket will have to do a zig-zag or
something to fit over the rivet heads that hold the fus 2. Should I drill
out 3 of those 3/16 rivets and then re-rivet with the bracket there, or
extend the bracket to zig-zag and hit the door post below the fus 2? Not a
very clear description, but those of you who have been there will get it
I'm
sure. If I attach it using the existing 3/16 hole in the fus 2 per the
manual, then do I just use that one hole or drill 2 more? This would seem
to
put many holes in a small area of the fus 2/door post intersection as the
3/16 holes are 3 abreast in this area. (sort of a triple nipple, one could
say)
Thanks
Jesse

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:03 am

Thanks Bob,
Yes, the bottom edge of the fus 27 does intersect with a row of 3/16 rivets,
but there is one more row fully exposed below that. Do you think I should do
the double 45 thing to reach all the way below the fus 2? I think the corner
gusset would still cover everything if I did, and I don't really want to
drill those rivets, but that seems like the bracket would be spanning a lot
of open air. I could make them from .032 I guess.
Do some Rebels have this problem and some not? It seems like all the
alignment in this area is predetermined and there wouldn't be much variation
from one plane to the next. If so, this is a good heads up for future
builders to not drill out the bottom row of holes on the aft fus 2s until
you install the brackets we are talking about, then the rivets could be
shared.
Jesse

From: "Robert and Olga Johnson" <rjohnson18@cogeco.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 17:06:27 -0400

Hi Jesse: I ran into this on two of the Rebels I built. I made up brackets
with double bends of 45 deg to miss the existing 3/16 rivets already in
place. There really is not enough room to remove and reuse the existing
3/16
rivets as you will see they are close to the bottom of the fus 27. The
corner gussets cover everything up late anyway and also add to the
strength.
Bob J Rebel 192/731
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 4:19 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket

How do you fit the 90 degree bracket between the bottom of fus 27 and
the
door post? The bottom leg of the bracket will have to do a zig-zag or
something to fit over the rivet heads that hold the fus 2. Should I
drill
out 3 of those 3/16 rivets and then re-rivet with the bracket there, or
extend the bracket to zig-zag and hit the door post below the fus 2? Not
a
very clear description, but those of you who have been there will get it
I'm
sure. If I attach it using the existing 3/16 hole in the fus 2 per the
manual, then do I just use that one hole or drill 2 more? This would
seem
to
put many holes in a small area of the fus 2/door post intersection as
the
3/16 holes are 3 abreast in this area. (sort of a triple nipple, one
could
say)
Thanks
Jesse

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Robert and Olga Johnson · Post by **Robert and Olga Johnson** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:03 am

Hi again: I recall using the 2nd set of 3/16 rivets with the bracket, and I
also used .032 or.040 material for these because of the offset. Just make
the brackets max width for proper wall thickness. Removing the existing
rivets is quite easy if you tap the center stem back first and drill
carefully with the #11 drill until the head pops off. A spring loaded center
punch works well for knocking the remaining section out. Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket

Thanks Bob,
Yes, the bottom edge of the fus 27 does intersect with a row of 3/16
rivets,
but there is one more row fully exposed below that. Do you think I should
do
the double 45 thing to reach all the way below the fus 2? I think the
corner
gusset would still cover everything if I did, and I don't really want to
drill those rivets, but that seems like the bracket would be spanning a
lot
of open air. I could make them from .032 I guess.
Do some Rebels have this problem and some not? It seems like all the
alignment in this area is predetermined and there wouldn't be much
variation
from one plane to the next. If so, this is a good heads up for future
builders to not drill out the bottom row of holes on the aft fus 2s until
you install the brackets we are talking about, then the rivets could be
shared.
Jesse

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Jesse Jenks · Post by **Jesse Jenks** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:04 am

To correct myself,
when I said fus 2, the part I was actually referring to is fus 1.
Sorry

From: "Robert and Olga Johnson" <rjohnson18@cogeco.ca>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 08:14:20 -0400

Hi again: I recall using the 2nd set of 3/16 rivets with the bracket, and I
also used .032 or.040 material for these because of the offset. Just make
the brackets max width for proper wall thickness. Removing the existing
rivets is quite easy if you tap the center stem back first and drill
carefully with the #11 drill until the head pops off. A spring loaded
center
punch works well for knocking the remaining section out. Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 12:36 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] fus 27 to door post bracket

Thanks Bob,
Yes, the bottom edge of the fus 27 does intersect with a row of 3/16
rivets,
but there is one more row fully exposed below that. Do you think I
should
do
the double 45 thing to reach all the way below the fus 2? I think the
corner
gusset would still cover everything if I did, and I don't really want to
drill those rivets, but that seems like the bracket would be spanning a
lot
of open air. I could make them from .032 I guess.
Do some Rebels have this problem and some not? It seems like all the
alignment in this area is predetermined and there wouldn't be much
variation
from one plane to the next. If so, this is a good heads up for future
builders to not drill out the bottom row of holes on the aft fus 2s
until
you install the brackets we are talking about, then the rivets could be
shared.
Jesse

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