The Murphy Builders Site

Gents,

Well, the first subkit has arrived, and I figure that I will start the

a. I have not seen any night position (tail) lights on the rudder of the two

b. Any other hints or tips I need before starting on this subassembly?

Thanks in advance!
Rich
806R

Bob, Roger, Charlie, Bill and Ron,

Thanks for the advice. I have decided to put the white position lights on the wingtips (thanks for the links), it just makes more sense. I also appreciate the things to watch out for and the diagram. Since the file archives are kind of spartan on the rudder, I will be taking some pictures for upload.

Best Wishes,
Rich
Rebel 806R

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel-Rudder Building
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 08:27:07 -0400

Hi Rich

You have reminded me that some of the aft most rivets in the control
surfaces are a problem. After you put the top one in, you can't get the
bottom one in because it hits the top one. It may help to draw the holes
away from each other with a file when enlarging them to #30 but from
discussions I think guys have either used short 1/16" ? grip commercial
rivets or shortened the avex rivet. That can be done with a dremel or
even in a lathe by removing some of the aluminum while not cutting into
the steel mandrel. In Canada where you must have the rudder etc.
inspected before closing, this will only become apparent when you close
the rudder up. The other technique that helps with that is to insert the
rivet, pull it very slightly, push it in further, pull a bit more, etc.
That works better with commercial (POP) rivets than with avex rivets as
the commercial ones tend to not expand radially as they are pulled.

Similarly when you install the fiberglass tips, you want to offset the
rearmost screws from each other. The manual says to rivet the tips on
but most people use screws, nutplates, or I used clipnuts. All of the
above only refers to the aft most rivet in each rib.

As you likely know, it is a good idea to dip the tip of each rivet in
primer before installation. And clean any excess primer off the same day
as it will be much more difficult to remove after the epoxy hardens
which generally takes several hours or days depending on the temperature.

One more thing. Not sure where it says to drill the attachment points
for the stab struts but.... I carefully reamed mine one thou
undersize. They were still too loose so I used precision AN173 bolts
that are a bit larger diameter. Well with 30 flight hours they are
starting to bug me on every pre-flight as there is still movement there.
Don't think it is getting worse but I am thinking of upgrading the bolts
to 5 mm which is about 0.200". So if doing this again I would ream at
least 3 thou undersize and if necessary I would use an adjustable
reamer. I'd use the AN3 bolts as per the manual as all the ones I have
are a bit smaller diameter than the AN173 precision bolts.

I am happy with the wing strut bolts but by then I was smart enough to
fit them with a 2.5 thou undersize reamer.

Have fun
Ken
hmmm make that Ken L. since another Ken seems to be here now ;)

Rich Dodson wrote:

Bob, Roger, Charlie, Bill and Ron,

Thanks for the advice. I have decided to put the white position lights

on the wingtips (thanks for the links), it just makes more sense. I also
appreciate the things to watch out for and the diagram. Since the file
archives are kind of spartan on the rudder, I will be taking some pictures
for upload.

Best Wishes,
Rich
Rebel 806R

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