The Murphy Builders Site

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Your following message has been delivered to the 146 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:46:07 on 1 Feb 2000.
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Clay, Not going to go into much detail as to pivot lengths etc. , but will
lay out the basics. The flap handle has a spring loaded button to allow
dis-engagement from each flap position. The handle is fixed to a 1" diameter
"torque tube" (4130 steel). This torque tube is mounted to the floor with
delrin bushings blocks on extensions in front of the control column. On the
left end of this torque tube, I welded an arm. The length of this arm is
dictated by the stroke required for full flap to full reflex at the end of
the mixer arm. Therefore, after you figure out your flap handle positions,
determine how long an arm is needed to match the linear distance the arm
moves (to match the requirement at the mixer arm) during full rotation of
the handle. From this arm a push pull tube runs under the one that already
goes along the door sill for flaperon control. It is hooked to a bearing'd
bellcrank that has a 1 to 1 ratio (L shaped). The other arm of the bellcrank
is linked to the end of the mixer arm. So when the flap handle is moved the
arm pushes/pulls the tube going along the door sill. It in turn moves the
bellcrank the identical amount and the other arm of the bellcrank then lifts
or lowers the mixer arm the same amount. SORRY YOU ASKED???
Took me 25 hours to design and around 30 hours to build, but I just had to
have flaps on the floor like my CESSNA!!!!!!!

OF COURSE you don't want to rivet your tips on! Strobe packs to access.
Hinges to check, etc. etc. I installed mine and Howard's, simply by only
drilling 3/32" holes and then installing #8 S.S. screws while holding the
tips tight to the aluminum. The fiberglass binds the screw in place and
holds in the thin aluminum. Haven't had any come loose or fall out in 5
years. The burred aluminum around each hole (with the screws removed) sure
cuts up the hands when wiping down prior to paint though!! The other
"proper" way to do it is to use clip nuts (or rivnuts but they are terrible
things)! Clip nuts are easy to use as you just drill the location hole on
the rudder/elevator, then slip the clip nut over the hole and it snaps in
place. If you bugger up a thread some time you just slip off, throw away and
install a new one. These will only work for one wing tip however as all the
wing ribs face the same way making it impossible to use them on one side
(for the other side your will have to use rivnuts or anchor nuts). I have
over 19,000 of these floating clip nuts in 6-32 ($1.25eachCDN), 8-32
($1.00each) and 10-32 ($1.00each). This is less than half what they normally
sell for (if you can find them).Minimum order is $50.00 plus S & H. If
anyone wants them fax order (size and qty) to 1-705-527-0874 with VISA #,
expiry date and name on card. Name and address to ship to via Canada Post.
If you are going to order, check out our inventory first to see if there is
anything else you need now to cut your shipping costs. Maybe I will bring
these to the Rebel Beaters meeting also!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Clay Smith <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

Wayne, would you mind briefly describing your mechanical flap system. I

sure am

interested in getting rid of that flex cable. Also, to the group, which

way is

everybody attaching their wing,rudder and elevator tips. I don't think

that I

want to rivet them as Murphy suggests. Thanks. Clay

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Dave, you were so busy working on yours (Osh '95), you never did get down

to

the threeshold of 34 to look at my mechanical flap system did you!!!!!

Took

most of the slop out of it.

Do you have a fax number I can send a sketch to, for the first push pull
tube/rod end linkage. Not too great with my Auto Cad yet! Still kind of

the

old pencil type of designer!

Wayne

-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Saturday, January 29, 2000 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: torqe tube travel

"Wayne G. O'Shea" wrote:

off

others

O.D.

end.

travel

has

and

tired!!

diameter

I'm not visualizing this Wayne. Could you do a sketch and send it.
This thread thing has bothered me since day one but I haven't figured
out how to fix it. I was going to machine a bearing into the end of the
tube but never got to it. Also, have you done any work in trying to
tighten up the whole control linkage thing? Drives me crazy to have so
much slop in the system, yet it flies okay. Want to fix that. Anyone
come up with a mechanical flaperon system to eliminate the teleflex
cable slop?


--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
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Wayne, it sounds like your mechanical flaps system works great. I also would
prefer a flap handle on the floor, just like my old Maule. I don't think that I
want to spend too much time on modifying the flaperon system though. It seems
that the 7 or 8 Rebels around here (all on floats) has changed over to the
split-flap system and claim to be very happy with their decision. So, chances
are I will be doing the same thing. I think Murphy offers the kit for $600.00
. That's going to hurt a little ... probably wait until I get some flying in
first.
Clay.




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Gee Clay, this is really different news ! EVERYBODY we know of here
who has tried split flaps for float flying went BACK to flapperons because
they really work better, both for take-off AND landing on the water !!!

The standard flap handle position is great - it's right up out of the
way in cruise (1 or 2 notches negative). Do NOT use the straight bar type
lever the plans show ! A handle with about a 45 degree dogleg in the
middle works best - can get a sketch if needed ....

Having the flaps on the floor gives an obstacle to trip over, when you
want to hop out the other side for docking.

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 11:27 PM 2/5/00 -0330, you wrote:

Wayne, it sounds like your mechanical flaps system works great. I also would
prefer a flap handle on the floor, just like my old Maule. I don't think

that I

want to spend too much time on modifying the flaperon system though. It seems
that the 7 or 8 Rebels around here (all on floats) has changed over to the
split-flap system and claim to be very happy with their decision. So, chances
are I will be doing the same thing. I think Murphy offers the kit for $600.00
. That's going to hurt a little ... probably wait until I get some flying in
first.
Clay.




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The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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That's encouraging, Bob. I certainly hope that the flapperons system works well,
because that's what I'm starting out with. I can always change it around later if
I want, and YES, if it isn't too much trouble, please send me a sketch of that
handle just to make sure that I get it right. Thank You.

Bob Patterson wrote:

Gee Clay, this is really different news ! EVERYBODY we know of here
who has tried split flaps for float flying went BACK to flapperons because
they really work better, both for take-off AND landing on the water !!!

The standard flap handle position is great - it's right up out of the
way in cruise (1 or 2 notches negative). Do NOT use the straight bar type
lever the plans show ! A handle with about a 45 degree dogleg in the
middle works best - can get a sketch if needed ....

Having the flaps on the floor gives an obstacle to trip over, when you
want to hop out the other side for docking.

....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 11:27 PM 2/5/00 -0330, you wrote:

Wayne, it sounds like your mechanical flaps system works great. I also would
prefer a flap handle on the floor, just like my old Maule. I don't think

that I

want to spend too much time on modifying the flaperon system though. It seems
that the 7 or 8 Rebels around here (all on floats) has changed over to the
split-flap system and claim to be very happy with their decision. So, chances
are I will be doing the same thing. I think Murphy offers the kit for $600.00
. That's going to hurt a little ... probably wait until I get some flying in
first.
Clay.




*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*




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