The Murphy Builders Site

There is only one row of rivets that picks up the rounded corner, the
side (or bottom) skin and then the channel. Seems to me the channel went
on the inboard side of the bottom skin flange IIRC. The rounded corner
skins likely have to be trimmed for width.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't be pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate row of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R

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The problem isn't the corner wraps, it's the flange on the skins. It isn't a
plain 90 but is "J" shaped and thus you can't push the channels into the
corner of the flange.

Allen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] floor channels

There is only one row of rivets that picks up the rounded corner, the
side (or bottom) skin and then the channel. Seems to me the channel went
on the inboard side of the bottom skin flange IIRC. The rounded corner
skins likely have to be trimmed for width.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled
corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the
depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't
be pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first
assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate row
of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Alan,
I reversed the channels so the flange on the channel faces the flange on the
side/bottom skin. It seems to work best this way even though the manual
specifically says to put them the opposite way.
Like you suggest, I built the whole internal floor structure (modified so I
can route control cables under floor) with the sides off. In fact I built
the whole tailcone in clecos including bulkhead sections. Just make sure you
maintain alignment. You should have enough of the corner wraps clecod on to
keep everything straight, otherwise the whole tailcone could be twisted when
you drill the inner floor, and then the outers won't line up. Make lots of
alignment checks before drilling.
Jesse

From: "apoulsen" <apoulsen@comcast.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] floor channels
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:54:11 -0400

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled
corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the
depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't be
pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first
assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate row
of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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Thanks Jesse. That seems to be the only way to avoid another row of rivets.

Did you put two channels down the middle to avoid the center crease? From
the archives I get the sense that is the preferred method?

Allen

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 5:18 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] floor channels

Alan,
I reversed the channels so the flange on the channel faces the flange on
the
side/bottom skin. It seems to work best this way even though the manual
specifically says to put them the opposite way.
Like you suggest, I built the whole internal floor structure (modified so
I
can route control cables under floor) with the sides off. In fact I built
the whole tailcone in clecos including bulkhead sections. Just make sure
you
maintain alignment. You should have enough of the corner wraps clecod on
to
keep everything straight, otherwise the whole tailcone could be twisted
when
you drill the inner floor, and then the outers won't line up. Make lots of
alignment checks before drilling.
Jesse

From: "apoulsen" <apoulsen@comcast.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] floor channels
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:54:11 -0400

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled
corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the
depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't
be
pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first
assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate row
of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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Ah yes I believe my channels were just touching the flange so there was
a small gap of maybe a 1/4".
Turning the channels so they face outboard might make it harder to get
those 3 rivets at each end into the bulkheads but I doubt it matters
much which way they face.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

The problem isn't the corner wraps, it's the flange on the skins. It isn't a
plain 90 but is "J" shaped and thus you can't push the channels into the
corner of the flange.

Allen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] floor channels

There is only one row of rivets that picks up the rounded corner, the
side (or bottom) skin and then the channel. Seems to me the channel went
on the inboard side of the bottom skin flange IIRC. The rounded corner
skins likely have to be trimmed for width.
Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled
corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the
depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't
be pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first
assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate row
of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R

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The bottom channels along the sides ...I left mine per MAM (turned inward).
I found no problem getting them against the flange by making sure the part of
those channels that goes along the bottom skin is bent a good 90 degrees --
out of the factory press they are sometimes a little wider angle and this
prevents the long side of the channel from getting up cloes to the turned up
flange. I also held them close to the flange when drilling. A couple pics
would be helpful. See: http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/Murphy/06.06/

The second picture (003) in that set also shows two lines. When I found as
Allen did that it was difficult to get the channels fully against the flange, I
drew a second line (blue in this picture) to mark the minimum distance I would
want my rivets into the channel from the bottom skin/corner wrap. BTW, I
found it helpful to draw lines along all the bottom channel pieces, to be sure
where my holes were going from the outside.
-Ben



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Alan,
Yes I put two channels down the middle, but I did it so I can have a
"tunnel" for the control cables. That section of floor will be removable.
Jesse

From: "apoulsen" <apoulsen@comcast.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] floor channels
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 17:49:59 -0400

Thanks Jesse. That seems to be the only way to avoid another row of rivets.

Did you put two channels down the middle to avoid the center crease? From
the archives I get the sense that is the preferred method?

Allen

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Jenks" <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 5:18 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] floor channels

Alan,
I reversed the channels so the flange on the channel faces the flange on
the
side/bottom skin. It seems to work best this way even though the manual
specifically says to put them the opposite way.
Like you suggest, I built the whole internal floor structure (modified

so

I
can route control cables under floor) with the sides off. In fact I

built

the whole tailcone in clecos including bulkhead sections. Just make sure
you
maintain alignment. You should have enough of the corner wraps clecod on
to
keep everything straight, otherwise the whole tailcone could be twisted
when
you drill the inner floor, and then the outers won't line up. Make lots

of

alignment checks before drilling.
Jesse

From: "apoulsen" <apoulsen@comcast.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] floor channels
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:54:11 -0400

Hello all,

Back so soon....

It appears to me in the manual that the rivets that attach the rolled
corners are supposed to pick up the floor channels as well. Due to the
depth of the flange on the side and bottom skins the ST31 channels can't
be
pushed in far enough to do this.

Have the parts changed or am I doing something wrong (always my first
assumption). Do you just slide the channels over and create a seperate

row

of rivets for them?

Thanks in advance.

Allen Poulsen
786R



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I put mine right down the centre... look fine.

Roland
R56



-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
tjhickey@iowatelecom.net
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 9:43 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Floor Channels

Hello, All:

I am at the point in my Rebel project where it is time to install the under
floor channels in the tail cone. The plans call for putting some channels
on the center line of the lower skin between the bulkheads. If I do that,
the rivets will fall on the crease in the skin. It seems to me that placing
the rivets there will distorted the skin. Has anyone slightly off set those
channels? Perhaps alternating the location of those channels from left
offset to right offset between bulkheads? That way the rivets could miss
flatting the stiffening crease.

Or am I just overthink this whole thing?

Thanks.


Tim Hickey
R 808




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