The Murphy Builders Site

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement as to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later time to allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and the longest section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a rigid as possible for moving around but I don't want to end up with some horrible access problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the

skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement
as to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later
time to allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and
the longest section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a
rigid as possible for moving around but I don't want to end up with some
horrible access problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Drew



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I built a Super Rebel but it sounds like the same type of thing is going on
with the Rebel. I not only left the last piece on top just in the front of
the fin off, but I also left the last two upper corner wraps off until I was
all done with controls. This made it a lot easier for me. If you do this,
absolutely do not try and crawl back there. My buddy did that and damaged
the tailcone. He had to replace both sides and some other stuff.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
apoulsen
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 4:21 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the
skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement
as to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later time
to allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and the
longest section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a rigid as
possible for moving around but I don't want to end up with some horrible
access problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R



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Can I just say DO NOT crawl inside EVER without it supported in the middle
if that panel is removed.
Just finishing the repair now !!
Nig 745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: 17 June 2006 05:10
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins


Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the

skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement
as to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later
time to allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and
the longest section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a
rigid as possible for moving around but I don't want to end up with some
horrible access problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Drew



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You can say! i still can see the pictures.

Allen
----- Original Message -----
From: "N.Smith" <admin@airnig.co.uk>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 4:03 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins

Can I just say DO NOT crawl inside EVER without it supported in the middle
if that panel is removed.
Just finishing the repair now !!
Nig 745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Drew Dalgleish
Sent: 17 June 2006 05:10
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins


Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the

skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement
as to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later
time to allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and
the longest section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a
rigid as possible for moving around but I don't want to end up with some
horrible access problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Drew



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Hi Drew

Four pulleys, ELT, antenna, four control cable holes and a retractable
ground handle went in through that open panel. Maybe the battery for
some fellows as well.
And it provided ventilation when I did the floor as I had a fan blowing
air down the fuselage and out that hole ;) (With a sawhorse and a
sheet of wood under the bulkheads for support!)

Thinking about Allen's question further - it might be a good idea to
install the floor channels back there before completely riveting the
tailcone as well. Some guys have even put in the floor.
That retractable handle is well "handy" but not as beneficial as I
expected. The tail ready to go with fuel is heavy enough (as is the
airplane) now that a "towbar" attached to the tailwheel would be better
for pulling it around on the ground.

I'm just waiting for the C of A.now. For the first time in 9 years I
have nothing on my airplane to do list. Mentioned that to the wife and
she suggested that I should install a carpet while I wait since I'm even
almost caught up on my neglected household chores. Guess I could make a
towbar too. Well there goes my empty to do list...

Ken

Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

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Surely you can thing of "something" to do on the airplane rather than work
on the house!!!

Thanks all for the input

Allen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins

Hi Drew

Four pulleys, ELT, antenna, four control cable holes and a retractable
ground handle went in through that open panel. Maybe the battery for
some fellows as well.
And it provided ventilation when I did the floor as I had a fan blowing
air down the fuselage and out that hole ;) (With a sawhorse and a
sheet of wood under the bulkheads for support!)

Thinking about Allen's question further - it might be a good idea to
install the floor channels back there before completely riveting the
tailcone as well. Some guys have even put in the floor.
That retractable handle is well "handy" but not as beneficial as I
expected. The tail ready to go with fuel is heavy enough (as is the
airplane) now that a "towbar" attached to the tailwheel would be better
for pulling it around on the ground.

I'm just waiting for the C of A.now. For the first time in 9 years I
have nothing on my airplane to do list. Mentioned that to the wife and
she suggested that I should install a carpet while I wait since I'm even
almost caught up on my neglected household chores. Guess I could make a
towbar too. Well there goes my empty to do list...

Ken

Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

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This is a timely discussion for me. I was just about to rivet that area. I
thought about leaving that section of skin off, but how do you pull the two
rivets that sit under the fin leading edge? I guess I could pull them from
inside, except that I already dimpled the holes (unnecessarily, I just
dimpled all the holes around the top of the oval bulkhead to avoid
confusion) Can you put a regular rivet in the back of a dimpled hole?
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:31:08 -0400

Hi Drew

Four pulleys, ELT, antenna, four control cable holes and a retractable
ground handle went in through that open panel. Maybe the battery for
some fellows as well.
And it provided ventilation when I did the floor as I had a fan blowing
air down the fuselage and out that hole ;) (With a sawhorse and a
sheet of wood under the bulkheads for support!)

Thinking about Allen's question further - it might be a good idea to
install the floor channels back there before completely riveting the
tailcone as well. Some guys have even put in the floor.
That retractable handle is well "handy" but not as beneficial as I
expected. The tail ready to go with fuel is heavy enough (as is the
airplane) now that a "towbar" attached to the tailwheel would be better
for pulling it around on the ground.

I'm just waiting for the C of A.now. For the first time in 9 years I
have nothing on my airplane to do list. Mentioned that to the wife and
she suggested that I should install a carpet while I wait since I'm even
almost caught up on my neglected household chores. Guess I could make a
towbar too. Well there goes my empty to do list...

Ken

Drew Dalgleish wrote:

Aw come on Ken you're skinny heck I fit way back there and I still crawl
back twice a year to visit my elt.

At 10:58 PM 6/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I followed the manual however I did have to remove the short top skin
section immediately ahead of the fin to put in the controls. You can't
crawl inside like that though with the aft end only supported by the
tailspring. I supported the fuselage under some of the bulkheads to work
inside.

Ken

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Hi Allen !

You might want to rivet all, except for the top corner wraps
and the side panel on one side - just cleco those in place. This will
give easy access later ...

One builder here did exactly that - and kept the tail cone
separate from the cabin until he moved all the pieces to a hangar
for final assembly. It worked out great ! Took almost 3 months
to get it all together and ready to fly, though - but he only had
Saturdays and a couple of evenings a week to work on it ...

Keep rivetting - it IS worth it !!! :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 17 June 2006 12:20 am, apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the

skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement as
to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later time to
allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and the longest
section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a rigid as possible
for moving around but I don't want to end up with some horrible access
problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Yes I did those (two I think) from the inside. Personally for two holes
I wouldn't hesitate to leave them dimpled and still rivet them from the
opposite side.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

This is a timely discussion for me. I was just about to rivet that area. I
thought about leaving that section of skin off, but how do you pull the two
rivets that sit under the fin leading edge? I guess I could pull them from
inside, except that I already dimpled the holes (unnecessarily, I just
dimpled all the holes around the top of the oval bulkhead to avoid
confusion) Can you put a regular rivet in the back of a dimpled hole?
Jesse

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Thanks Bob, that's the conclusion I reached too.

I'm going to put in the floor with the side off instead of climbing around
inside. If I run into any problems doing it that way I'll post them.

Allen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <beep@sympatico.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins

Hi Allen !

You might want to rivet all, except for the top corner wraps
and the side panel on one side - just cleco those in place. This will
give easy access later ...

One builder here did exactly that - and kept the tail cone
separate from the cabin until he moved all the pieces to a hangar
for final assembly. It worked out great ! Took almost 3 months
to get it all together and ready to fly, though - but he only had
Saturdays and a couple of evenings a week to work on it ...

Keep rivetting - it IS worth it !!! :-)

--
......bobp
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 17 June 2006 12:20 am, apoulsen wrote:

Hello all,

I've read through the archives searching for information on riveting the

skins and corner wraps on the aft fus. There seems to be some disagreement
as
to whether one should rivet them as directed by mam or at some later time
to
allow for access later on. I have to build the fus in pieces and the
longest
section I have room for is 12' so I would like the parts a rigid as
possible
for moving around but I don't want to end up with some horrible access
problem later.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Allen Poulsen
786R

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Thanks Ken,
That's what I will do. I just riveted the bottom fus 29 and fus 30 on. Glad
Alan brought it up. This will make it much easier to work back there. Just
have to remember not to crawl in.
Jesse

From: Ken <klehman@albedo.net>
Reply-To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Riveting fus skins
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 12:50:20 -0400

Yes I did those (two I think) from the inside. Personally for two holes
I wouldn't hesitate to leave them dimpled and still rivet them from the
opposite side.
Ken

Jesse Jenks wrote:

This is a timely discussion for me. I was just about to rivet that area.

I

thought about leaving that section of skin off, but how do you pull the

two

rivets that sit under the fin leading edge? I guess I could pull them

from

inside, except that I already dimpled the holes (unnecessarily, I just
dimpled all the holes around the top of the oval bulkhead to avoid
confusion) Can you put a regular rivet in the back of a dimpled hole?
Jesse

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