The Murphy Builders Site

STABLIZER QUESTION

Looking for guidance on the Stablizer (Manual Section # 8.0 Page 3). The
two (2) predrilled holes in the inboard end of the Stablizer Spar (ST 27) are
approximately 5/8" from the end of the Spar . It appears that we can not
attach the Rear Attach Bracket (ST 38) in accordance with the drawing.
QUESTION - do we have to cut approximately 1/2" off the end of the Spar or is
the Spar correct in length as is and it is simply our misinterperation?

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks,

John Curtis R676
Warrenton, VA
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Brian 328R

I used a piece of .016 alu sheet formed into a aft section of a airfoil. (
strut tube is the nose section. ) You will have to notch the fairing for the
rivits that attach the tube to the ST41 fork fittings. Glue this on to the
strut tube with some proseal and then wrap the whole thing with Alu foil
tape. Do not forget to seal the ends with tape. The whole thing weighs about
3/4 oz per side.

On my rebel I used MAM HP continental engine cowling & spinner, there wheel
fairings on 600 by 6 tires with bungee type gear.

The following is rough list of the things I have done.

Engine cowling:

Located the prop 1 1/4 inch forward from there original location on the cowl
reconstructed this area modified the internal area of the air intakes
modified the exit air area & located the engine air intake inside of the
engine cowling.

Windshield:

Located the forward edge of the acrylic windshield 1 1/4 in closer to the
firewall.

Controls:

All gaps on wing tips , elevator, rudder tips are approx 1/8 in. Ailerons to
flap gap seals, Seals between the leading edge of the ailerons, flap & aft
spar. Very close fit on the top wing skin over the Ailerons and flaps.

General Airframe:

All fairings on wing roots, tail surfaces ect. sealed with foam tape.
Fairings on lift struts, rear stabilizer struts, one piece cabin door with
very tight fits and seals, cabin air and heat source from inside of the
engine air inlets.

Landing gear:

Streamline the following, main gear /drag brace assy, upper gap from gear
assy to fuselage, wheel fairings, modified the upper & lower slide tube assy
from bungee cord to rubber blocks in compression with air foil fairing full
length. Note cross section is only about 3/8 in larger than tube assy. Stream
line clover leaf center, center vee strut and junction of gear leg, slide
tube assy wheel pants and brakes.
Note: In this area of the landing gear there is a total of 21 lbs of fairings.

I have some other things to do and will keep you posted as to any increase in
performance.

Steve Sloan 536R
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I think I sent my last note to you regarding Alex Russell passing away.

I am receiving 10 to 15 messages a day & would like people to remove his
address from their address book. His address is AzAlexR@ aol.com. Any help
would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Doris Russell
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Hi Steve !

Thanks for the detail ! I'm really glad that someone else
appreciates the improvements possible with a little cleanup, and
it sounds like you've done a GREAT job !!!

Being old glider pilots, we've always used plastic electrical tape
to seal all our fairings - and have had many sarky comments about that
being "what holds the wings on". But we smile, because we get an extra
few mph on cruise, and it doesn't cost a penny in extra fuel ! :-) :-)

Congratulations on a great performing Rebel - hope we'll get
to see it one day ! Maybe on a Ramble in a few years ....

.....bobp

--------------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 08:25 PM 10/16/00 EDT, you wrote:

Brian 328R

I used a piece of .016 alu sheet formed into a aft section of a airfoil. (
strut tube is the nose section. ) You will have to notch the fairing for the
rivits that attach the tube to the ST41 fork fittings. Glue this on to the
strut tube with some proseal and then wrap the whole thing with Alu foil
tape. Do not forget to seal the ends with tape. The whole thing weighs about
3/4 oz per side.

On my rebel I used MAM HP continental engine cowling & spinner, there wheel
fairings on 600 by 6 tires with bungee type gear.

The following is rough list of the things I have done.

Engine cowling:

Located the prop 1 1/4 inch forward from there original location on the cowl
reconstructed this area modified the internal area of the air intakes
modified the exit air area & located the engine air intake inside of the
engine cowling.

Windshield:

Located the forward edge of the acrylic windshield 1 1/4 in closer to the
firewall.

Controls:

All gaps on wing tips , elevator, rudder tips are approx 1/8 in. Ailerons to
flap gap seals, Seals between the leading edge of the ailerons, flap & aft
spar. Very close fit on the top wing skin over the Ailerons and flaps.

General Airframe:

All fairings on wing roots, tail surfaces ect. sealed with foam tape.
Fairings on lift struts, rear stabilizer struts, one piece cabin door with
very tight fits and seals, cabin air and heat source from inside of the
engine air inlets.

Landing gear:

Streamline the following, main gear /drag brace assy, upper gap from gear
assy to fuselage, wheel fairings, modified the upper & lower slide tube assy
from bungee cord to rubber blocks in compression with air foil fairing full
length. Note cross section is only about 3/8 in larger than tube assy. Stream
line clover leaf center, center vee strut and junction of gear leg, slide
tube assy wheel pants and brakes.
Note: In this area of the landing gear there is a total of 21 lbs of fairings.

I have some other things to do and will keep you posted as to any increase in
performance.

Steve Sloan 536R
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Hi Steve

Thanks very much for your complete list of clean ups for your Rebel. That
is very kind of you. The only problem is now I will have to work all winter
to get up to speed with you (pun intended).

Hope to see your machine sometime

Thank you again

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 12:56 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: (no subject)



Hi Steve !

Thanks for the detail ! I'm really glad that someone else
appreciates the improvements possible with a little cleanup, and
it sounds like you've done a GREAT job !!!

Being old glider pilots, we've always used plastic electrical tape
to seal all our fairings - and have had many sarky comments about that
being "what holds the wings on". But we smile, because we get an extra
few mph on cruise, and it doesn't cost a penny in extra fuel ! :-) :-)

Congratulations on a great performing Rebel - hope we'll get
to see it one day ! Maybe on a Ramble in a few years ....

.....bobp

--------------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 08:25 PM 10/16/00 EDT, you wrote:

Brian 328R

I used a piece of .016 alu sheet formed into a aft section of a airfoil.

strut tube is the nose section. ) You will have to notch the fairing for

the

rivits that attach the tube to the ST41 fork fittings. Glue this on to the
strut tube with some proseal and then wrap the whole thing with Alu foil
tape. Do not forget to seal the ends with tape. The whole thing weighs

about

3/4 oz per side.

On my rebel I used MAM HP continental engine cowling & spinner, there wheel
fairings on 600 by 6 tires with bungee type gear.

The following is rough list of the things I have done.

Engine cowling:

Located the prop 1 1/4 inch forward from there original location on the

cowl

reconstructed this area modified the internal area of the air intakes
modified the exit air area & located the engine air intake inside of the
engine cowling.

Windshield:

Located the forward edge of the acrylic windshield 1 1/4 in closer to the
firewall.

Controls:

All gaps on wing tips , elevator, rudder tips are approx 1/8 in. Ailerons

to

flap gap seals, Seals between the leading edge of the ailerons, flap & aft
spar. Very close fit on the top wing skin over the Ailerons and flaps.

General Airframe:

All fairings on wing roots, tail surfaces ect. sealed with foam tape.
Fairings on lift struts, rear stabilizer struts, one piece cabin door with
very tight fits and seals, cabin air and heat source from inside of the
engine air inlets.

Landing gear:

Streamline the following, main gear /drag brace assy, upper gap from gear
assy to fuselage, wheel fairings, modified the upper & lower slide tube

assy

from bungee cord to rubber blocks in compression with air foil fairing full
length. Note cross section is only about 3/8 in larger than tube assy.

Stream

line clover leaf center, center vee strut and junction of gear leg, slide
tube assy wheel pants and brakes.
Note: In this area of the landing gear there is a total of 21 lbs of

fairings.

I have some other things to do and will keep you posted as to any increase

in

performance.

Steve Sloan 536R
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Archives located at:
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--------*

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Bob,
Thanks for all of the info, your experience helps all of us in many different areas.
The info about the tailpipes will require my attention.
When I sold my C-172 about a year and a half ago, I quit flying so that I might rid
myself of any bad habits aquired from that Land-O-Matic tricycle gear. Before I get into
the Rebel I plan on about 20 hours of taildragger training. It has been my experience
that no matter how much time you have or how comfortable you feel with an airplane you
must be ever vigilent otherwise the machine will bite you.
Rick D.
P.S. Also please keep reminding those of us who are still building that IT IS WORTH IT.



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Richard,

Your comments reminded me how glad I was to have learned to fly a
conventional geared airplane, off of a dirt road, when I was just a kid. It
has stuck with me forever. I was so focused on flying on conventional gear,
that on my first instruction in a C 150, I looked over at the instructor on
roll out and ask him when do I pick the tail up? You should have seen the
look on his face! I don't think he ever flew a tail dragger in his entire
career.

Bruce G 357
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Hallo Scott,
Please to hear you enjoyed the South Island, although we live in the
North Island, we still think down south is best. We certainly would have
been pleased to see you and appreciated kicking the tyres (yes they are
on) of our Rebel."How far are we?" is a million dollar question. Fuse
structure is finished, no fitting wiring to engine, instruments,
headliner,door latches,etc,etc. One thing someone may be able to help me
with, I have not completed fitting the flap gear. I really would like to
put the flap handle on the floor. Anyone out there can help with any
experiences I would be gratefull to hear from.
Perhaps another time you may be this way Scott or anyone you are
welcome.
Regards
Graeme & Britta





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Graeme&Britta

I will forward to you with in the week some photo's of my flap handle
installation on the floor.

Steve Sloan 536R Rebelee de bebe

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Maybe you could upload, so we might all get to see.

I would be interested

Keith Oliver
Elite
N654ME (Reserved)

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of SWSLOANLK@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 10:08 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: (no subject)


Graeme&Britta

I will forward to you with in the week some photo's of my flap handle
installation on the floor.

Steve Sloan 536R Rebelee de bebe

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From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)


Hi Graeme !

Of course, it is always your choice of where you want things
on your Rebel, but I think so many times, choices are based on the
"Cessna did it so it must be good ..." prejudice !

While it takes a few seconds to adjust to, having the flap
handle (especially if you make it with a 45 degree dogleg) up TOP
is really VERY practical and convenient. You can easily SEE where
it is set, and it is completely up out of the way in negative, for
cruise. With the Rebel design, you only need 2 fingers to move the
flaps - it's NOT a Cessna !!

If you go onto floats, you will really appreciate keeping
everything OFF of the floor and out of the way, so you can easily
hop over to the other side, for docking convenience. Otherwise,
even on wheels, you could put a small, low profile armrest/storage
compartment there, at seat height. The Super Rebel has the flap lever
on the floor, and it can be a REAL pain if you have a right crosswind,
as your leg gets trapped between the handle (at full flap), and the
stick ! You also have to lean & reach forward a long way to grab the
handle. (<I> would suggest moving the flap handle attachment on the
Super about 6" or so to the rear ...) (Just MHO .... )

Speaking of seat height - be sure to have your seat cushions
made up AT LEAST 8 to 10 inches thick ! (Unless you're 6'6" tall ;-))
This will make for a much better seating position to see outside,
AND it will get you high enough up that when you slide out of the
Rebel, your voice won't go up 3 octaves because of the seat belt
attach fitting !! ;-)

....bobp

------------------------------orig.------------------------------------
At 12:50 PM 3/25/01 +1200, you wrote:

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Hallo Scott,
Please to hear you enjoyed the South Island, although we live in the
North Island, we still think down south is best. We certainly would have
been pleased to see you and appreciated kicking the tyres (yes they are
on) of our Rebel."How far are we?" is a million dollar question. Fuse
structure is finished, no fitting wiring to engine, instruments,
headliner,door latches,etc,etc. One thing someone may be able to help me
with, I have not completed fitting the flap gear. I really would like to
put the flap handle on the floor. Anyone out there can help with any
experiences I would be gratefull to hear from.
Perhaps another time you may be this way Scott or anyone you are
welcome.
Regards
Graeme & Britta


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On 25 Mar 2001, at 10:16, bob.patterson@canrem.com wrote:

"Cessna did it so it must be good ..." prejudice !

Of course, that depends on _which_ Cessna. My partner in our
Super Rebel trained in a fairly new Cessna with electric flaps, so
he's not too keen on the Johnson bar on the floor of my 175. (And I
haven't flown anything else.)

With the Rebel design, you only need 2 fingers to move the flaps -
it's NOT a Cessna !!

Have to take a look again at that arrangement at SnF, if Murphy
still has a demo with the old upper mount.

Speaking of seat height - be sure to have your seat cushions
made up AT LEAST 8 to 10 inches thick ! (Unless you're 6'6" tall ;-))

How about 6'10"? For me, most airplanes are worse than foreign
cars. The SR actually has rooooom.

---
David Parrish




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From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)


Sorry, David !

All of my comments were meant for <Rebel> builders - the Super
doesn't have those challenges ! ;-)

.....bobp

------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 08:37 AM 3/26/01 -0500, you wrote:

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On 25 Mar 2001, at 10:16, bob.patterson@canrem.com wrote:

"Cessna did it so it must be good ..." prejudice !

Of course, that depends on _which_ Cessna. My partner in our
Super Rebel trained in a fairly new Cessna with electric flaps, so
he's not too keen on the Johnson bar on the floor of my 175. (And I
haven't flown anything else.)

With the Rebel design, you only need 2 fingers to move the flaps -
it's NOT a Cessna !!

Have to take a look again at that arrangement at SnF, if Murphy
still has a demo with the old upper mount.

Speaking of seat height - be sure to have your seat cushions
made up AT LEAST 8 to 10 inches thick ! (Unless you're 6'6" tall ;-))

How about 6'10"? For me, most airplanes are worse than foreign
cars. The SR actually has rooooom.

---
David Parrish

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Rebel Group

I have posted 4 photo's the the File area under Rebel interior of my flap
handle installation that is mounted on the floor between the seats. I have
the split flaps and ailerons, but a short pushrod to the mixer arm should
work for the flaperon equipped Rebels.

Steve Sloan 536R Rebelee de bebe

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