I think it's better to double the FUS-30 a bit farther forward than
the pic. - I would pick up a few of the rivets in the triangular insert
at the front, as well as the rivets in the top horizontal bulkhead.
You definitely need to come at least a couple of inches forward of
the front tailspring attach bolt, as a minimum.
Personally, I would just use FUS-70's everywhere - keep it simple !
The old FUS-10's were only .020 - too thin if dented. I've replaced
one after a small dent turned into a 3" crack in about 30 hours ....
The thick slab tailspring now supplied can be made useable by
machining in a taper, from the top, after it is clamped, to the
bottom, where the tailwheel attaches, to about one half the thickness.
This should give a bit of bounce. :-) Personally,
I prefer the composite springs (you might have to make one though -
don't have a source now !) They are the same thickness, but have lots
of bounce & twist, and fail by delaminating, saving your rudder ...
......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Wednesday 10 May 2006 08:14 pm, David L. Tuck wrote:
I hope that I'm not pounding this subject to death ?
I'm at the tail section of this process and I have seen where we are to
double the fus 30. I would like to know if I'm to use the whole thing or
just the tail post forward a few inch's like the photo shows on the
archives?
Also can someone tell me why ? to use the fus 70's instead of the fus 10's
?
What are the most of you using for tail springs ? I see that the tail
spring from mam is very thick, and I feel that there is not enough flex in
the tail spring / to stiff ! Is there a mod for this ?
Thanks for all the help out there.
Dave T
Rebel #009 here in Mi.
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