Torque tube lube
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:40 pm
Hello,
Wayne, Thanks for that tip on the "torque tube lube". I am just
finishing the lower firewall reinforcement and will then procede to the
additional tail wrap. I looked at several taildraggers at the local
airport last weekend in regards to the tailspring and their
construction. Your description of the utility trailer spring sounds good
and I am looking into one similar. I think that I will end up at one of
the local automotive spring shops to get a 3 leaf spring as I envision
it. 3 leafs of 1/4" x 1 3/4 spring steel and the length about the same
as the 5/8 ths thick aluminum murphy spring.
One aspect of the spring attach point that always has bothered me was
the aluminum strut attach bracket. Of the certified ships that I looked
at, none have attached stab struts to any part of the tailspring
clamping/holding mechanism. They all have tabs that are attached to the
fusealage ahead of the tailspring clamp. As I said, the alum strut
attach bracket has always bothered me. When I add the additional tail
wrap, I am going to have to remake the strut attach bracket and I am
going to remake it out of 4130 steel as this clamps directly against the
new steel tailspring. Now I know that there are many rebels flying with
the aluminum bracket and I don't believe there have been any problems.
But I will probably be at the forward end of the C/G anyway and can use
the weight in the tail without using lead. ANY COMMENTS! I purchased
the Scott's 3200 tailwheel and hope to get at it this weekend. For a
lower spring gear reinforcement I am going to add a 1/8" thick 4130
steel plate, 6" front to back, and about 8" in. This will be riveted to
the tubes and will pick up all three bolts. I will use cherry "Q" rivets
for high shear strength. I will probably be going to 3/8" outboard
bolts. All steel parts will painted with POR-15 which is a heavy duty
automotive paint.
To the new builders, I can highly recommend a set of step drills
for drilling holes in thin sheet. At first I thought that these were a
gimmick but I tried one and have found them to be very useful all around
the shop. From my perspective I have always tried to mechanize as many
operations as possible. For removing the 200 -300 clecos from each wing
surface I purchased a pneumatic operated cleco remove/install tool for
about $75.00 from Aircraft Spruce/Specialty. This tool is well worth the
money when you get to the wings. It also does not require a high CFM. I
purchase almost exclusivly from them unless they do not stock an item. I
have found them to be very reliable and they stand behind the products.
Also keep in mind that this airplane will cost you between $25,000 and
$45,000 with the $25,000 being an absolute minimum. Any tools that you
buy will be a small precentage of the cost and will preserve your body
for future use.
Thanks to all for your support and keep the comments coming,
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 446
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Wayne, Thanks for that tip on the "torque tube lube". I am just
finishing the lower firewall reinforcement and will then procede to the
additional tail wrap. I looked at several taildraggers at the local
airport last weekend in regards to the tailspring and their
construction. Your description of the utility trailer spring sounds good
and I am looking into one similar. I think that I will end up at one of
the local automotive spring shops to get a 3 leaf spring as I envision
it. 3 leafs of 1/4" x 1 3/4 spring steel and the length about the same
as the 5/8 ths thick aluminum murphy spring.
One aspect of the spring attach point that always has bothered me was
the aluminum strut attach bracket. Of the certified ships that I looked
at, none have attached stab struts to any part of the tailspring
clamping/holding mechanism. They all have tabs that are attached to the
fusealage ahead of the tailspring clamp. As I said, the alum strut
attach bracket has always bothered me. When I add the additional tail
wrap, I am going to have to remake the strut attach bracket and I am
going to remake it out of 4130 steel as this clamps directly against the
new steel tailspring. Now I know that there are many rebels flying with
the aluminum bracket and I don't believe there have been any problems.
But I will probably be at the forward end of the C/G anyway and can use
the weight in the tail without using lead. ANY COMMENTS! I purchased
the Scott's 3200 tailwheel and hope to get at it this weekend. For a
lower spring gear reinforcement I am going to add a 1/8" thick 4130
steel plate, 6" front to back, and about 8" in. This will be riveted to
the tubes and will pick up all three bolts. I will use cherry "Q" rivets
for high shear strength. I will probably be going to 3/8" outboard
bolts. All steel parts will painted with POR-15 which is a heavy duty
automotive paint.
To the new builders, I can highly recommend a set of step drills
for drilling holes in thin sheet. At first I thought that these were a
gimmick but I tried one and have found them to be very useful all around
the shop. From my perspective I have always tried to mechanize as many
operations as possible. For removing the 200 -300 clecos from each wing
surface I purchased a pneumatic operated cleco remove/install tool for
about $75.00 from Aircraft Spruce/Specialty. This tool is well worth the
money when you get to the wings. It also does not require a high CFM. I
purchase almost exclusivly from them unless they do not stock an item. I
have found them to be very reliable and they stand behind the products.
Also keep in mind that this airplane will cost you between $25,000 and
$45,000 with the $25,000 being an absolute minimum. Any tools that you
buy will be a small precentage of the cost and will preserve your body
for future use.
Thanks to all for your support and keep the comments coming,
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 446
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
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