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[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

I suspect that squeeze is the culprit. I've never had one apart so unsure
how they go together inside. Did you not notice how the rod was attached to
the piston when you where installing new O-rings on the piston?

Also be careful if you are ordering a new cylinder from MAM. They changed
the thread diameter for the clevis to a smaller than they were before... on
the main gear cylinder.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

You're probably right about the squeeze being the problem. I can't tell for
sure how they're put together but it looks to me like they might have just
staked the end of the steel rod on the aluminum piston. It's the nose wheel
cylinder that's the problem so hopefully it's the same as before.

At 07:52 PM 5/4/2006 -0400, you wrote:
I suspect that squeeze is the culprit. I've never had one apart so unsure
how they go together inside. Did you not notice how the rod was attached to
the piston when you where installing new O-rings on the piston?

Also be careful if you are ordering a new cylinder from MAM. They changed
the thread diameter for the clevis to a smaller than they were before... on
the main gear cylinder.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

It's the main wheel small cylinders that they changed the rod end thread on.
Don't think the front one's changed but I'll have a look tomorrow to be sure
for you.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

You're probably right about the squeeze being the problem. I can't tell
for
sure how they're put together but it looks to me like they might have just
staked the end of the steel rod on the aluminum piston. It's the nose
wheel
cylinder that's the problem so hopefully it's the same as before.

At 07:52 PM 5/4/2006 -0400, you wrote:
I suspect that squeeze is the culprit. I've never had one apart so
unsure
how they go together inside. Did you not notice how the rod was attached
to
the piston when you where installing new O-rings on the piston?

Also be careful if you are ordering a new cylinder from MAM. They changed
the thread diameter for the clevis to a smaller than they were before...
on
the main gear cylinder.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not
holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took
it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it
possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does
anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not
quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Angus McKenzie

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Angus McKenzie » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Hi Drew
I've got a front retract cyl. with a slight leak and am interested in your
findings.
Also when I replaced the "O" rings in my MAM hydraulic pump they needed to
be a different part/number then what was given in my parts
list............Angus





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Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at the front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new front cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model cyl.?) that came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more leaks and pressure held.

I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this is miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to pick up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I haven't disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.

Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 4, 2006 5:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Bruce...FOKM had a pump like that in it that weeped around one of the
mounting bolts on the base. Turned out when I pulled the bolt out I had a
gyser!! When they tapped the fitting threads for the pressure line then
cracked thru into the mounting hole...so the bolt kept the pressure in the
system and when I removed it major leak. Swapped in a new pump so Garry
doesn't have that problem. The newer pumps have a larger base to get away
from the fitting holes...so suspect this isn't your problem.

I have absolutely no leak/bleed down issues with my pre-builts bought out of
the same batch as Bruce's. As a matter of fact I have to make sure that when
I park the airplane at the dock that I select gear down and pump them part
way...then select gear up and leave it. The pressure increases from sun/heat
will actually retract the gear!

DREW....I was in error. The cylinders are still all threaded the same for
the clevis...it was the way MAM now cuts the threads that I don't like.
After the thread they now "neck" it before the rod making a weak spot where
the old way got blended to the rod. All cylinders appear to be the same
length within 1/8" and clevis threads are the same. I was comparing an old
set of cylinders from a 1995 kit to current day 2005 kit. Get Nancy to get
one on the way to you....the water is getting warmer every day!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at the
front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new front
cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model cyl.?) that
came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more leaks and
pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to pick
up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I haven't
disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.
Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 4, 2006 5:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took
it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it
possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does
anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not
quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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http://www.peoplepc.com



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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

At 08:11 AM 5/5/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Hi Drew
I've got a front retract cyl. with a slight leak and am interested in your
findings.
Also when I replaced the "O" rings in my MAM hydraulic pump they needed to
be a different part/number then what was given in my parts
list............Angus
Hi Angus I never even checked my parts list just went to the exeter branch
of carquest aviation parts store and got matching O-rings. I still have the
cylinder out I just pulled the hoses up onto the deck so I could hook them
up to test again. So I'm thiking I might try again using square O-rings if
I can find some the right size. Might have to check the john deere aviation
department :)




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WALTER KLATT

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by WALTER KLATT » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

I need to check my rear cylinders, too. Mine never did hold pressure, but now I have a leak back there, too, which seems to be getting worse. I still am planning to take apart my main wheel assemblies to check my bearings, etc, and need to get this done before the "big trip". Meanwhile, just keeping adding some fluid every few months, but the mess is getting larger in my hangar by my wheels.

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Friday, May 5, 2006 9:24 am
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
Bruce...FOKM had a pump like that in it that weeped around one of the
mounting bolts on the base. Turned out when I pulled the bolt out
I had a
gyser!! When they tapped the fitting threads for the pressure line
thencracked thru into the mounting hole...so the bolt kept the
pressure in the
system and when I removed it major leak. Swapped in a new pump so
Garrydoesn't have that problem. The newer pumps have a larger base
to get away
from the fitting holes...so suspect this isn't your problem.

I have absolutely no leak/bleed down issues with my pre-builts
bought out of
the same batch as Bruce's. As a matter of fact I have to make sure
that when
I park the airplane at the dock that I select gear down and pump
them part
way...then select gear up and leave it. The pressure increases
from sun/heat
will actually retract the gear!

DREW....I was in error. The cylinders are still all threaded the
same for
the clevis...it was the way MAM now cuts the threads that I don't
like.After the thread they now "neck" it before the rod making a
weak spot where
the old way got blended to the rod. All cylinders appear to be the
samelength within 1/8" and clevis threads are the same. I was
comparing an old
set of cylinders from a 1995 kit to current day 2005 kit. Get
Nancy to get
one on the way to you....the water is getting warmer every day!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they
had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push
rod at the
front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had
new front
cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model
cyl.?) that
came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more
leaks and
pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin
but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the
pump to pick
up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I
haven'tdisassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be
affected from it.
Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 4, 2006 5:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them
not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking
internally. I took
it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it
possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does
anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing
that's not
quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like
someone> >squeezed it in a padded vice.



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-

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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

At 11:34 AM 5/5/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at
the front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new
front cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model
cyl.?) that came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no
more leaks and pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to
pick up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I
haven't disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I bought my floats as a kit about six years ago when they had a
sale that included the mounting hardware. The leak I have is internal I
just loose pressure without any fluid dripping out so when I took the
cylinder apart I didn't bother separating the rod from the top cap so I
don't know how many O-rings are in the cap assembly. The piston has two
O-rings




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

"Big Trip"...goin somewhere! :O)

----- Original Message -----
From: "WALTER KLATT" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

I need to check my rear cylinders, too. Mine never did hold pressure, but
now I have a leak back there, too, which seems to be getting worse. I still
am planning to take apart my main wheel assemblies to check my bearings,
etc, and need to get this done before the "big trip". Meanwhile, just
keeping adding some fluid every few months, but the mess is getting larger
in my hangar by my wheels.
Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Friday, May 5, 2006 9:24 am
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs
Bruce...FOKM had a pump like that in it that weeped around one of the
mounting bolts on the base. Turned out when I pulled the bolt out
I had a
gyser!! When they tapped the fitting threads for the pressure line
thencracked thru into the mounting hole...so the bolt kept the
pressure in the
system and when I removed it major leak. Swapped in a new pump so
Garrydoesn't have that problem. The newer pumps have a larger base
to get away
from the fitting holes...so suspect this isn't your problem.

I have absolutely no leak/bleed down issues with my pre-builts
bought out of
the same batch as Bruce's. As a matter of fact I have to make sure
that when
I park the airplane at the dock that I select gear down and pump
them part
way...then select gear up and leave it. The pressure increases
from sun/heat
will actually retract the gear!

DREW....I was in error. The cylinders are still all threaded the
same for
the clevis...it was the way MAM now cuts the threads that I don't
like.After the thread they now "neck" it before the rod making a
weak spot where
the old way got blended to the rod. All cylinders appear to be the
samelength within 1/8" and clevis threads are the same. I was
comparing an old
set of cylinders from a 1995 kit to current day 2005 kit. Get
Nancy to get
one on the way to you....the water is getting warmer every day!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they
had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push
rod at the
front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had
new front
cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model
cyl.?) that
came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more
leaks and
pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin
but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the
pump to pick
up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I
haven'tdisassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be
affected from it.
Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
not holding
internally. I took
it
possible
anyone
that's not
quite
someone> >squeezed it in a padded vice.
-
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Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Wayne,

Good to know about the hand pump. I thought mine leaked from the top down but I haven't paid much attention to it for a year or so.

I "always" leave my gear lever in the up position (never neutral or down) even when parked in the hanger. It will never build pressure this way.

Try flying into one of BC's nice fishing lakes in the middle of no where, miles from anything, at altitude with 30* temps early in the morning. Land and have your fun then come back to your closed up plane when it's 80* at 2:00 in the afternoon, pulling your string of trout, only to notice hyd. fluid sprayed all over the inside of your windows. Next feel your heart sink as your, up until then, wonderful day slides into oblivion as you start to ponder your options.

True story...although I might have embellished it a little (I think we only caught two or three trout, right Walter?) but the lesson is the same. fortunately I had company and we fixed the problem and got home in time for dinner but it could have been much worse.

In the heat the pressure had built enough to burst a rubber "fuel" line that was used in place of what should have been hyd. line. They look the same, so read the printing on your installation kit hyd. line and make sure it is hyd line not fuel. The packing employee at MAM apparently did not know the difference.

Bruce G

but the -----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 5, 2006 12:24 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Bruce...FOKM had a pump like that in it that weeped around one of the
mounting bolts on the base. Turned out when I pulled the bolt out I had a
gyser!! When they tapped the fitting threads for the pressure line then
cracked thru into the mounting hole...so the bolt kept the pressure in the
system and when I removed it major leak. Swapped in a new pump so Garry
doesn't have that problem. The newer pumps have a larger base to get away
from the fitting holes...so suspect this isn't your problem.

I have absolutely no leak/bleed down issues with my pre-builts bought out of
the same batch as Bruce's. As a matter of fact I have to make sure that when
I park the airplane at the dock that I select gear down and pump them part
way...then select gear up and leave it. The pressure increases from sun/heat
will actually retract the gear!

DREW....I was in error. The cylinders are still all threaded the same for
the clevis...it was the way MAM now cuts the threads that I don't like.
After the thread they now "neck" it before the rod making a weak spot where
the old way got blended to the rod. All cylinders appear to be the same
length within 1/8" and clevis threads are the same. I was comparing an old
set of cylinders from a 1995 kit to current day 2005 kit. Get Nancy to get
one on the way to you....the water is getting warmer every day!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at the
front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new front
cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model cyl.?) that
came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more leaks and
pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to pick
up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I haven't
disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.
Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 4, 2006 5:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took
it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it
possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does
anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not
quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Bruce Georgen

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Bruce Georgen » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing the caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.

Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 5, 2006 12:44 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:34 AM 5/5/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at
the front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new
front cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model
cyl.?) that came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no
more leaks and pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to
pick up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I
haven't disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I bought my floats as a kit about six years ago when they had a
sale that included the mounting hardware. The leak I have is internal I
just loose pressure without any fluid dripping out so when I took the
cylinder apart I didn't bother separating the rod from the top cap so I
don't know how many O-rings are in the cap assembly. The piston has two
O-rings




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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

Hey Bruce, will definitely have to do that one again this summer. Also, am
better equipped now with my inflatable canoe. I was up there last fall with
my son, and we found another good spot full of hungry trout, and probably
can fish right off of some big logs there and may not even need the canoe.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Georgen
Sent: May 6, 2006 8:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Wayne,

Good to know about the hand pump. I thought mine leaked from the top down
but I haven't paid much attention to it for a year or so.

I "always" leave my gear lever in the up position (never neutral or down)
even when parked in the hanger. It will never build pressure this way.

Try flying into one of BC's nice fishing lakes in the middle of no where,
miles from anything, at altitude with 30* temps early in the morning. Land
and have your fun then come back to your closed up plane when it's 80* at
2:00 in the afternoon, pulling your string of trout, only to notice hyd.
fluid sprayed all over the inside of your windows. Next feel your heart sink
as your, up until then, wonderful day slides into oblivion as you start to
ponder your options.

True story...although I might have embellished it a little (I think we only
caught two or three trout, right Walter?) but the lesson is the same.
fortunately I had company and we fixed the problem and got home in time for
dinner but it could have been much worse.

In the heat the pressure had built enough to burst a rubber "fuel" line that
was used in place of what should have been hyd. line. They look the same,
so read the printing on your installation kit hyd. line and make sure it is
hyd line not fuel. The packing employee at MAM apparently did not know the
difference.

Bruce G

but the -----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Sent: May 5, 2006 12:24 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Bruce...FOKM had a pump like that in it that weeped around one of the
mounting bolts on the base. Turned out when I pulled the bolt out I had a
gyser!! When they tapped the fitting threads for the pressure line then
cracked thru into the mounting hole...so the bolt kept the pressure in the
system and when I removed it major leak. Swapped in a new pump so Garry
doesn't have that problem. The newer pumps have a larger base to get away
from the fitting holes...so suspect this isn't your problem.

I have absolutely no leak/bleed down issues with my pre-builts bought out
of
the same batch as Bruce's. As a matter of fact I have to make sure that
when
I park the airplane at the dock that I select gear down and pump them part
way...then select gear up and leave it. The pressure increases from
sun/heat
will actually retract the gear!

DREW....I was in error. The cylinders are still all threaded the same for
the clevis...it was the way MAM now cuts the threads that I don't like.
After the thread they now "neck" it before the rod making a weak spot where
the old way got blended to the rod. All cylinders appear to be the same
length within 1/8" and clevis threads are the same. I was comparing an old
set of cylinders from a 1995 kit to current day 2005 kit. Get Nancy to get
one on the way to you....the water is getting warmer every day!!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Georgen" <bgeorgen@peoplepc.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Drew,

Did you buy your 1800 amphibs pre-assembled from MAM when they had their
sale a few years ago? Both nose gear cyl. leaked through the push rod at
the
front cyl. cap on mine. Brian sent me rebuild kits. The kit had new front
cap assemble with two "o" rings, not the one "o" ring (old model cyl.?)
that
came with the original floats. Once I replaced these I had no more leaks
and
pressure held.
I still have some weeping from the hand pump cyl. in the cabin but this
is
miner and I just keep a small rag rapped around the base of the pump to
pick
up the fluid. I have to replace the rag once or twice a year. I haven't
disassembled the pump. Pressure doesn't seem to be affected from it.
Bruce G

-----Original Message-----
From: Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
Sent: May 4, 2006 5:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Gentlemen I have 1800 amphibs that I've had trouble with them not
holding
hydraulic pressure since new. I finally got around to isolating the
cylinders and have identified the one that's leaking internally. I took
it
apart and replaced the o-rings but that made no difference. Is it
possible
that it's leaking at the joint between the piston and the rod? Does
anyone
know how are these two parts joined? The only other thing that's not
quite
right is the piston itself isn't perfectly round it looks like someone
squeezed it in a padded vice.




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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Wayne G. O'Shea

[rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

Post by Wayne G. O'Shea » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:44 am

As I've said numerous times..... My floats for almost a year now and
Howard's old floats built in 1998 had no hydraulic leakage issues at all for
seven seasons. Howard's would sit all winter in the hangar and hold 100psi.
Mine constantly builds pressure itself and I always have to dump the
pressure by flipping the selector handle thru it's up/down cycle. When
sitting on my airlift at the lake I actually select gear down and pump the
gear about 6 strokes and then select gear up. When it builds pressure in the
sun/heat it then retracts the gear by itself instead of building pressure.

One thing I found with a couple I have worked on is the pressure will slowly
go down. Watch the pump handle (mark the piston rod location)...it will
slowly change position. What is happening is the pressure check valve is
leaking and the fluid is coming back into the pump and filling the piston
cavity while the inlet check valve does it's job. Found if the pump was left
in the fully filled position the system would not bleed down. If you are
trying to isolate things this may at least point you to which check valve is
leaking. Another way would be to put a ball valve in the pressure line and
inlet lines.

Drew...did you send the email about repair parts directly to Nancy?

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 amphibs

At 11:25 AM 5/6/2006 -0400, you wrote:
Drew,

If you take the cyl. apart again, slide out the rod and see how many
o-rings seal the rod. If there is only one you might consider replacing
the
caps with the 2 o-ring caps from MAM. Not keeping pressure if it's small
might not be a bad thing as the plane sits in the hanger or hot sun.
Bruce G
Hi Bruce I emailed MAM to find out about replacement cylinders and parts
but haven't had a reply yet. Changing the caps is probably a good idea and
is something I'll check out. If it was a small leak I wouldn't worry about
it but what I have is a drop from 150psi to 0 in less than a minute on
just
this one cylinder there's some other small leaks either in the other
cylinders or the pump check valves that add up to losing all my pressure
in about 45 seconds. I'm not looking for perfect I just don't want to have
to keep pumping the whole time I'm landing, taking off or taxiing. Has
anyone considered installing a couple accumalators to help maintain
pressure and help prevent overpressurization.




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