The Murphy Builders Site

Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

All,

I wanted to thank all of you who offered advice for my questions on air
compressors, drills, deburring, rivet pullers, etc. A lot of you responded
with your ideas and opinions. This is great! You have helped me a lot.

By the way Harbour Freight had the pneumatic rivet puller reduced from $49
to $25.

My next question is about the worktable. I believe I read somewhere that
Murphy has plans for one in their builder's manual. Should I wait for
Murphy's plans or start building the table?

I've also read suggestions that say you should build the table in sections
which you can bolt together for a larger surface as needed. Such as two
tables 4' x 8' which when bolted together could become 4' x 16', etc;...AND
perfectly flat, square, and true.

This 'modular' table idea appeals to me as I'm somewhat limited for space.
So I thought I'd ask for your suggestions.

Also, if 'modular' is acceptable, what size worktable top would you
recommend I need to start construction of the tail kit?

Thanks,

Roger
Eugene, OR USA

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

Roger & Alice Hoffman wrote:

All,

I wanted to thank all of you who offered advice for my questions on air
compressors, drills, deburring, rivet pullers, etc.

After ordering my kit in July 99, I interviewed some local Rebel builders
to get some ideas
on what tools and equipment were required. After all notes were taken, I
decided to make a
simple "equipment needed" spread sheet in Excel to sort out the best prices
available from the best supplier.

As progress continues on my bomber, I may find that I need more stuff.

Most of these tools are new, as my previous aircraft building project
required different type
of assortment. Here is a list of major tools I came up with for this
project:

Hand Riveter
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (left hand)
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (right hand)
Clecos: 400@ 3/32
Clecos: 400@ 1/8
Clecos: 50@ 3/16
Clecos Side Clamp: 6 @ 1/2
Clecos Side Clamp: 6@ 1
90 degree Drill (Tight Fit kit)
Digital Level 24" (SmartTool)
Rivet Spacer
Edge Marker Block
Dimple tool
Pop Rivet Dimplers: 3/32
Pop Rivet Dimplers: 1/8
Fluting Pliers (plier type)
Fluting Pliers (vice grip type)
Stretcher/Shrinker
Drill Press
Digital Calipers
Band Saw
Misc. Drill bits
Misc. Files
Nibbling tool
Drill stops
Basic hand tools etc.

As I was building my Long-EZ, I did commerce almost exclusively with
Aircraft Spruce.
Nowadays with the business competition environment and tight money, it pays
(literally) to
shop around.

Here are some suppliers I conjured up (I know there are more, but I didn't
want to make it
my life's work).

Remember to get current prices and shipping charges. And search the web.
(Note: The below
also have email addresses):

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. 1-800-824-1930
http://www.aircraft?spruce.com
Aircraft Tool Supply Co. 1-800-248-0638 http://www.aircraft-tool.com
Avery Tool Co.
Brown Aviation Tool Supply 1-800-587-3883 http://www.browntool.com
Chief Aircraft 1-800-447-3408 http://www.chiefaircraft.com
Grizzly Industrial 1-800-523-4777 http://www.grizzlyindustrial.com
Harbor Freight Co. 1-800-423-2567 http://www.harborfreight.com
Murphy Aircraft Co. 604-792-5855 http://www.murphyair.com
Tool Crib 1-800-358-3096 http://www.toolcribofthenorth.com
Wicks Aircraft Supply 1-800-221-9425 http://www.wicks.com/aircraft

Electronic Proportion Scale www.balances.com
Reamers www.kbctools.com
Dimpled Nutplates 800-736-4123 www.airbolt.com

I hope this helps in your quest for building the perfect Rebel. Have a
great time building and
keep us posted on your progress.

Terry Dazey
Long-EZ N86TD
Murphy Rebel #662

PS. We also have a Pacific Northwest Rebel Builders Web Site that Chuck Bailey
and Chuck
Skorupa started (they are going to have plenty of pictures eventually).

By the way Harbour Freight had the pneumatic rivet puller reduced from $49
to $25.

That is a good price . I just might buy an extra for a backup.

My next question is about the worktable. I believe I read somewhere that
Murphy has plans for one in their builder's manual. Should I wait for
Murphy's plans or start building the table?

Call them, email them or fax them. They will send you a copy. If not, let me
know and I will fax you the drawings.

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

Roger,

We build an 8" X 16" table using 2 - 3/8" sheets of 4' X 8' plywood (interior
grade). We sanded and put on three coats of polyurethane (sanding between
poly coats). Our concern about the finish was to have the table top hard and
smooth to elimate any "dings" in the sheet metal while building the various
components - it works great. Also, we built a continious shelf under the
table top to store airplane shin components, etc.

My only concern about building in sections is making sure that both sections
once attached are level and flat to eleviate any skin damage, etc.

Bottom line is that the table is well worth the cost and effort!

Good luck and have fun {:>)!

John Curtis
Warrenton, VA
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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

When building tables, one of the things I appreciated most was being
able to move it. I installed rollers on each end. I built it with a
reinforced top and a shelf under it to store stuff. The new TGI floor
joists would make a great top support system being perfectly straight.
I used dimensional lumber and was picky. Even though I finished my
airplane in 94, the table remains as one of my favorite work benches.
It is so large, that it takes forever to clutter to the point that you
can't see it anymore and have to clean up the shop. :)
--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

Roger,
I finished my table about 2 weeks ago using the Murphy plans. If you use
their plans the table is one unit 16 feet long. You will have to modify
the plans to make it 2 tables of 8 feet. I was told the flatter the work
surface the better for the accuracy of your fuselage. I am far from that
point but I built the table like flatness mattered.

Two things that I did that aren't on the plans. I used 1/2 inch bolts,
nuts and washers in 2x4" pieces on each of the 6 table legs. My basement
floor isn't level and the levelers made a difference when it came time to
level the table top. Secondly, I used 1/2 particle board with a Melamine
laminate for my top. I searched Georgia Pacific's web site before I
bought it and felt it was strong enough to support the fuselage weight.
The Melamine gives a nice, smooth work surface and the sheets were
cheaper than 1/2 BC plywood at my local Home Depot lumber yard. The
Murphy plans call for 6 sheets of plywood but if you plan your sheets you
can cut the table out of 5 sheets.

Terry

On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 06:37:18 -0800 "Roger & Alice Hoffman"
<rognal@teleport.com> writes:

All,

I wanted to thank all of you who offered advice for my questions on
air
compressors, drills, deburring, rivet pullers, etc. A lot of you
responded
with your ideas and opinions. This is great! You have helped me a
lot.

By the way Harbour Freight had the pneumatic rivet puller reduced
from $49
to $25.

My next question is about the worktable. I believe I read somewhere
that
Murphy has plans for one in their builder's manual. Should I wait
for
Murphy's plans or start building the table?

I've also read suggestions that say you should build the table in
sections
which you can bolt together for a larger surface as needed. Such as
two
tables 4' x 8' which when bolted together could become 4' x 16',
etc;...AND
perfectly flat, square, and true.

This 'modular' table idea appeals to me as I'm somewhat limited for
space.
So I thought I'd ask for your suggestions.

Also, if 'modular' is acceptable, what size worktable top would you
recommend I need to start construction of the tail kit?

Thanks,

Roger
Eugene, OR USA

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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*----------------------------------------------------*

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Posted: **Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm**

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 146 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:34:28 on 25 Jan 2000.
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Dave, Sounds like you keep your shop in the same state of affair I keep
mine!!!! Hope business is going well!!

Watch the TGI "silent floor" beams. They are generally manufactured with a
slight crown so when loaded down they will be straight.This may not be a big
deal over 8 or 16 feet (take a string to the lumber yard to check them out),
but the 34 foot long ones I used in my house had at least a 3/8' crown in
the center. Similar to steel "I" beams always have a crown, as do most
spruce 2 X 8's and 2 X 10's. I built my original table, basically by the
Murphy Manual (with one less sheet than called out). Built as two separate 4
X 8 tables and joined on each side by a 3/4" plywood strip, screwed to allow
separation for moving and I use shims to level the legs. Although when I
move my work shop to home this spring, I will be putting leveler screw on
the corners.

I also built my table back in '92 and it has seen a lot of aluminum work
since. Basically an overall average of 30 hours a week since 1995!! Still
perfectly flat (checked with a smart level before each job) and just
starting to get a little tattered around the edge. Should be good for at
least 6 more aircraft.

Blue Skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: subersys <subersys@nidlink.com>
To: (Murphy Rebel Builders List) <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: New builder again w/? about worktables.

When building tables, one of the things I appreciated most was being
able to move it. I installed rollers on each end. I built it with a
reinforced top and a shelf under it to store stuff. The new TGI floor
joists would make a great top support system being perfectly straight.
I used dimensional lumber and was picky. Even though I finished my
airplane in 94, the table remains as one of my favorite work benches.
It is so large, that it takes forever to clutter to the point that you
can't see it anymore and have to clean up the shop. :)
--
Dave Bangle http://www.subielyc.com/
*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

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