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moose gear brackets and aileron hinges

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:34 am
by Brian Godden
OK, you guys are scaring me now.
There are basically three generations of Super Rebel/Moose gear brackets.
The original 309 had a groove 1/8" machined in it and took the "c" shaped
310. This was used on the 2500.
The Moose has a gear leg 1/8" thicker, so the 309 was machened out another
1/8" (ie to 1/4") to accomodate it, and I believe given a 700 series number.
It still took the original 310.
After a number of gear failures, and while Doug was building the Bombardier
Moose, he came up with the idea of machining the groove/slot out to the full
7/8" to take the entire gear leg, and capture it with a simple flat bar
stock. The 309 had to be redesigned to keep the rake angles the same, and
was given a "B" designation (bloody confusing!).
You cannot mix and match them!!!
The new set up does indeed require a lot of filing and gnashing of teeth to
make it fit, and even then there is a gap between the flat bar stock (310B)
and the 309B. You take this up with 3/8" washers so no preload is on the bar
stock.

The original Rebels had AIL-26's made of plain steel. If not well greased,
they corroded, and could lock inside the brass bushing, possibly introducing
a turning moment on the bolt. So most of us used castle nuts.
Later kits have these made of stainless (use a magnet to check). So,
theoretically, if these are properly lubricated, the bolt, if tightly locked
down, will not move.
I now use nylocks on the ailerons and flaps, as the chances of three nylocks
unwinding completely and the flap or aileron falling off is pretty remote.
You MUST use castle nuts on the tail section.

If anyone plans to do a runaway trim flight test on a Moose in the nose down
mode, take Bob's advice....don't yard that stick too much......or maybe just
take our word for it.
Brian

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