Rebel S/N 446
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:39 pm
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 143 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:00:16 on 9 Jan 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard, once again thanks for the mail.
The extra doubler at the tail post is not so much to help the fin attach as
it is to keep the area between the post and the tail spring bolt bulkhead
from buckling! Make a cardboard template first to wrap around the outside of
the area from the post to about 3 inches past the spring attach bulkhead.
Cut the pattern so instead of a straight triangle shape from the top of the
post area to the 3 inch forward of the bulkhead so you have an elliptical
curve (just looks nicer). Transfer this pattern to .032 material and bend
accordingly to fit. Use a creative pattern of rivets at 1" spacing to
sandwich this piece to the original Fus30. Don't over do the rivets or you
may create a "tear here line". If you have enough edge distance left on your
TS 2 and 3's. You can offset drill the bolt holes on each side from the
original 3/16 to 1/4". .250 minus .1875 = .0625. Two skin thickness' at .032
= .064. Therefore you may be able to use your existing TS parts. As for the
tail spring it should be 1 3/4" wide and I suggest you throw the 7075
aluminum spring away, before you put it up through your rudder 50 hours down
the runway! I've tried them all and the best to date is a 1 3/4" wide, 3
leaf utility trailer spring with the curls cut off each end to mount the
tail wheel and bolt to the fuselage.($32 cdn at our local supply store)
Congrates on picking the Scott 3200 tail wheel. Best you can do and helps
your C of G. Did you take your bank manager with you to buy it though? They
are not cheap, but less than bothering with the hockey puck wheel from
Murphy and then buying a one forked Maule, only to throw them both away and
then buying a Scott. Buy it now if you haven't already.
On the fin post, substitute RV1613 rivets for the 3 - RV1410 rivets that
hold Fus 31 to the post and make sure all the bend reliefs are absolutely
burr free! If you don't these 3 rivets will be gone or the Fus 31 will be
cracked, 50 hours down the runway also!
Blue Skies, Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 09, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Rebel S/N 446
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 143 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 23:00:16 on 9 Jan 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard, once again thanks for the mail.
The extra doubler at the tail post is not so much to help the fin attach as
it is to keep the area between the post and the tail spring bolt bulkhead
from buckling! Make a cardboard template first to wrap around the outside of
the area from the post to about 3 inches past the spring attach bulkhead.
Cut the pattern so instead of a straight triangle shape from the top of the
post area to the 3 inch forward of the bulkhead so you have an elliptical
curve (just looks nicer). Transfer this pattern to .032 material and bend
accordingly to fit. Use a creative pattern of rivets at 1" spacing to
sandwich this piece to the original Fus30. Don't over do the rivets or you
may create a "tear here line". If you have enough edge distance left on your
TS 2 and 3's. You can offset drill the bolt holes on each side from the
original 3/16 to 1/4". .250 minus .1875 = .0625. Two skin thickness' at .032
= .064. Therefore you may be able to use your existing TS parts. As for the
tail spring it should be 1 3/4" wide and I suggest you throw the 7075
aluminum spring away, before you put it up through your rudder 50 hours down
the runway! I've tried them all and the best to date is a 1 3/4" wide, 3
leaf utility trailer spring with the curls cut off each end to mount the
tail wheel and bolt to the fuselage.($32 cdn at our local supply store)
Congrates on picking the Scott 3200 tail wheel. Best you can do and helps
your C of G. Did you take your bank manager with you to buy it though? They
are not cheap, but less than bothering with the hockey puck wheel from
Murphy and then buying a one forked Maule, only to throw them both away and
then buying a Scott. Buy it now if you haven't already.
On the fin post, substitute RV1613 rivets for the 3 - RV1410 rivets that
hold Fus 31 to the post and make sure all the bend reliefs are absolutely
burr free! If you don't these 3 rivets will be gone or the Fus 31 will be
cracked, 50 hours down the runway also!
Blue Skies, Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: oifa@irishfield.on.ca <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 09, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Rebel S/N 446
*----------------------------------------------------*Hello Wayne and Leah,
My name is Rick DeCiero and I live in Hudson, MA, USA. This town is
located about 30 NM west of Boston, MA.
I have just located the Rebel Discussion group site. I have been on
the official Murphy site for about a year and I was disappointed with
its ability to answer my questions. I think that now I have found the
correct site to be working off of.
My Rebel is S/N 446 and I have been at it for almost 6 years. The
fuselage is complete and I was getting ready to put the O-320 on when I
found this site. As a result of many Oshkosh conversations with Dave
Bengal (SubiLyc) I had beefed up the area ahead of the door posts. I
made all new parts for the front. The sides were made of .032 thick
2024-T3, I ordered the .032 thick lower corner wraps and installed them,
installed the channel between the top engine mounts (I built them with
.032 2024-T3 and put them through the monting holes), built some wide
plates that run from the top engine mounts back along the sides and they
tie into the witches hats and the angled piese that the windshield
mounts to, made a 10" high instrument panel full width and replaced the
top of the inst panel with a .032 piece. ( the piece has an angle leg
bent down to reinforce the panel where it is cut out for the isolated
instruments/radios and so as not to act as a guillotine in the event of
an accident). About the only thing that I have not done up front is the
lower reinforcement. Thankfully, I found this site and I will make up
the part and install it. My planned operations for the aircraft will
not be that severe, at least not intentionally!
However, it is a different story in the rear. I have installed
Murphy's tail reinforcing angles and plates but now I am concerned that
I should wrap another piece around the tailcone from the fin attach
point to the tailspring bulkhead to preclude any problems with the fin
attach point. I have yet to attach the tailspring although I have made
all of the parts and have them fitted nicely. This also implies that I
have not installed the horizontal stabs. I plan to use a Scotts 3200
tailwheel assy and I have the latest Murphy tailspring which is a 5/8"
thick 7075 aluminum bar which I think is 1 5/8 wide.
When you wrap the additional piece around FUS-30 (.032 2024-T3) this
will move the TS-1 angles out by .032 per side and this will necessitate
remaking TS-2 and TS-3 to accomodate the new width. I guess I am looking
for a little encouragement to induce me to go ahead and make this mod.
Any comments? Do you think the dimensions for TS-3 should be widened to
accomodate the increased width? I don't see where if they were .032
wider per side that there would be any problems. Any help would be
appreciated and I hope to participate in future discussions on line.
How do I post a message to that site?
You are to be commended for the effort that you have put into
experimental aviation. Many of the comments on the discussion site have
been very helpful and I had already started a list of areas to be
watched on the Rebel and many of your comments have opened my eyes to
some other areas that need to be watched.
Murphy Aircraft has not been too helpful when it comes to answering
any questions. All I ever get is from them is "Do it as it says in the
manual". They do however honor the merchandise and even to this day I
have found incorrect parts etc. and they have just sent a new part no
questions asked. And this is 5+ years after the sale. This in itself is
a credit to Daryl Murphy's commitment to us however it would be nice to
get a little more technical support.
Thanks in advance for any advice that you can give and sorry for
being so long winded.
Bye for now,
Rick D.
P.S. You may post this message at the site if you like. And don't
forget to let me know how to post future mesages at that site.
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------