The Murphy Builders Site

Hi Ben I haven't tried it but maybe a heat gun would soften it enough to
peel off properly

At 10:24 AM 3/20/2006 -0900, you wrote:

OK, with no other suggestions, I'm going to answer my own question here.
This is also a two-fold answer. 1.) More beer is about it, as I suggested
when posing in the first place. 2.) more beer? ...no, actually, I found

that

using scotch brite only makes things messier. It is better to just use more
solvent, an aluminum scraper and often a second soaking, then wrags. Still
takes a lot of patience.

I guess this may not be a real common problem out there, especially with new
kits, but my kit had something special in how it was baked in a Texas barn

for

7 years before I got it (now 10 years total). It is tempting to suggest

that

new kit owners consider peeling off protective plastic from inside pieces

(ribs

and bulkheads), making sure to re-label accurately, to avoid this kind of
headache if the kit sits several years before getting to these parts of
construction.
-Ben

On 3/17/2006 2:35 PM, bransom wrote to rebel-builders:

This is something I thought I knew enf about -- getting the aged and

brittle

plastic protective coating off of aluminum -- but lately it is really

cutting

into

my sense of fun. I've taken care of this problem reasonably well when

parts

fit into a covered aluminum roasting pan (about 12x20") with Goof-off, or

with

flat pieces that I could cover with aluminum foil. But now I'm doing the
fuselage bulkhead pieces and they are big or awkward for the above,
especially where the plastic has come off but the sticky layer remains. I
resort to working this with green scotch brite and more Goofoff and then a
rag, but it is very tedious, messy, time consuming. Anyone know of any
tricks here or should I just add more beer and quit whining?
thanks,
-Ben

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Drew





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Hi Drew, thanks for the suggestion, but nope, I had tried that and no effect
at all. Sorta surprising.
-Ben

Hi Ben I haven't tried it but maybe a heat gun would soften it enough to
peel off properly

At 10:24 AM 3/20/2006 -0900, you wrote:

OK, with no other suggestions, I'm going to answer my own question

here.

This is also a two-fold answer. 1.) More beer is about it, as I suggested
when posing in the first place. 2.) more beer? ...no, actually, I found

that

using scotch brite only makes things messier. It is better to just use more
solvent, an aluminum scraper and often a second soaking, then wrags.

Still

takes a lot of patience.

I guess this may not be a real common problem out there, especially with

new

kits, but my kit had something special in how it was baked in a Texas barn

for

7 years before I got it (now 10 years total). It is tempting to suggest

that

new kit owners consider peeling off protective plastic from inside pieces

(ribs

and bulkheads), making sure to re-label accurately, to avoid this kind of
headache if the kit sits several years before getting to these parts of
construction.
-Ben

On 3/17/2006 2:35 PM, bransom wrote to rebel-builders:

This is something I thought I knew enf about -- getting the aged and

brittle

plastic protective coating off of aluminum -- but lately it is really

cutting

into

my sense of fun. I've taken care of this problem reasonably well when

parts

fit into a covered aluminum roasting pan (about 12x20") with Goof-off,

or

with

flat pieces that I could cover with aluminum foil. But now I'm doing the
fuselage bulkhead pieces and they are big or awkward for the above,
especially where the plastic has come off but the sticky layer remains.

I

resort to working this with green scotch brite and more Goofoff and

then a

rag, but it is very tedious, messy, time consuming. Anyone know of any
tricks here or should I just add more beer and quit whining?
thanks,
-Ben

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Drew

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Hi Ben !

Geeeee !! If it's THAT hard to remove, <I>'d be tempted just to
leave it on - sounds like great protection !! ;-) You could just
strip it off at the joints, so you could epoxy them, and leave the
plastic on the big areas .... doesn't sound like it'd EVER come
off !!! :-) More time for beer ! :-)

.....bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 20 March 2006 06:02 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi Drew, thanks for the suggestion, but nope, I had tried that and no
effect at all. Sorta surprising.
-Ben

Hi Ben I haven't tried it but maybe a heat gun would soften it enough
to peel off properly

At 10:24 AM 3/20/2006 -0900, you wrote:

OK, with no other suggestions, I'm going to answer my own question

here.

This is also a two-fold answer. 1.) More beer is about it, as I
suggested when posing in the first place. 2.) more beer? ...no,
actually, I found

that

using scotch brite only makes things messier. It is better to just
use more solvent, an aluminum scraper and often a second soaking,
then wrags.

Still

takes a lot of patience.

I guess this may not be a real common problem out there, especially
with

new

kits, but my kit had something special in how it was baked in a Texas
barn

for

7 years before I got it (now 10 years total). It is tempting to
suggest

that

new kit owners consider peeling off protective plastic from inside
pieces

(ribs

and bulkheads), making sure to re-label accurately, to avoid this kind
of headache if the kit sits several years before getting to these
parts of construction.
-Ben

On 3/17/2006 2:35 PM, bransom wrote to rebel-builders: brittle

cutting

into
parts

or

with

I

then a

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Drew

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Believe me, that crossed my mind. Especially if I were going to prime inside,
this would seem really crazy to be spending all this time and fun with solvents
only to put something else back on! But nah, that ain't right. Also, the stuff
really does have a time factor to it -- some of it is peeled and brittle (flakes
off easily) right next to other parts stuck for another 10 years. Hmmm,
maybe if I just fly with the doors off all those millions of little white plastic
fragments would eventually blow out!

But now I'm obsessed and winning -- must be the fumes. :)
-Ben

Hi Ben !

Geeeee !! If it's THAT hard to remove, <I>'d be tempted just to
leave it on - sounds like great protection !! ;-) You could just
strip it off at the joints, so you could epoxy them, and leave the
plastic on the big areas .... doesn't sound like it'd EVER come
off !!! :-) More time for beer ! :-)

.....bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 20 March 2006 06:02 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi Drew, thanks for the suggestion, but nope, I had tried that and no
effect at all. Sorta surprising.
-Ben

Hi Ben I haven't tried it but maybe a heat gun would soften it enough
to peel off properly

At 10:24 AM 3/20/2006 -0900, you wrote:

here.

that

Still

new

for
that
(ribs

and

cutting

or

I

then a

Drew

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Hey Ben !! That might be a solution !!!! If the stuff does deteriorate,
maybe it's UV sensitive - might shining a UV or IR light on it overnight
make it crumble & flake off ????????

Might be worth a try ..... ???
......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 20 March 2006 08:51 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Believe me, that crossed my mind. Especially if I were going to prime
inside, this would seem really crazy to be spending all this time and fun
with solvents only to put something else back on! But nah, that ain't
right. Also, the stuff really does have a time factor to it -- some of
it is peeled and brittle (flakes off easily) right next to other parts
stuck for another 10 years. Hmmm, maybe if I just fly with the doors off
all those millions of little white plastic fragments would eventually
blow out!

But now I'm obsessed and winning -- must be the fumes. :)
-Ben

Hi Ben !

Geeeee !! If it's THAT hard to remove, <I>'d be tempted just to
leave it on - sounds like great protection !! ;-) You could just
strip it off at the joints, so you could epoxy them, and leave the
plastic on the big areas .... doesn't sound like it'd EVER come
off !!! :-) More time for beer ! :-)

.....bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Monday 20 March 2006 06:02 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Hi Drew, thanks for the suggestion, but nope, I had tried that and
no effect at all. Sorta surprising.
-Ben
here.
Still
new

and

or
I
then a

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Hi Bob,
Although it is probably UV and air, I did try leaving some parts outside last
summer for a couple weeks and there was no perceptible change. It would
take more time than I can safely leave the parts out. At least I'm not
plagued with all parts having this problem, and notably, the large skins still
peel fine. Problems are mostly with the white plastic coating and not the
clear. Don't understand that.
-Ben

On 3/20/2006 6:18 PM, beep@sympatico.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

Hey Ben !! That might be a solution !!!! If the stuff does deteriorate,
maybe it's UV sensitive - might shining a UV or IR light on it overnight
make it crumble & flake off ????????

Might be worth a try ..... ???
......bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Monday 20 March 2006 08:51 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

Believe me, that crossed my mind. Especially if I were going to prime
inside, this would seem really crazy to be spending all this time and fun
with solvents only to put something else back on! But nah, that ain't
right. Also, the stuff really does have a time factor to it -- some of
it is peeled and brittle (flakes off easily) right next to other parts
stuck for another 10 years. Hmmm, maybe if I just fly with the doors off
all those millions of little white plastic fragments would eventually
blow out!

But now I'm obsessed and winning -- must be the fumes. :)
-Ben

Hi Ben !

Geeeee !! If it's THAT hard to remove, <I>'d be tempted just to
leave it on - sounds like great protection !! ;-) You could just
strip it off at the joints, so you could epoxy them, and leave the
plastic on the big areas .... doesn't sound like it'd EVER come
off !!! :-) More time for beer ! :-)

.....bobp
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------

On Monday 20 March 2006 06:02 pm, bransom@dcsol.com wrote:

question

aged

and

know

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