Elite Tailfeathers
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:27 am
Roy:
Here is a list of points to note/changes for the Elite Tailfeathers:
Stab:
Not too much, other than using Tinnerman nuts for the inspection plates, and
plate nuts to secure the trim servo. The trim servo pushrod is just a piece
of threaded rod, and needs beefed up with a piece of 0.25" OD tubing slipped
over it. You need some holes and grommets in the ribs to pass the trim
servo cable through. When you come to attach the rear stab attach brackets
to the fuselage (MUCH later), install captive nuts inside the tailcone.
This way, you can install the stab before these brackets. Otherwise, its
almost impossible to install the stab after painting without scratching it
or worse. And of course, the FG tips need to be shortened to match the
elevator.
Elevator:
The tips and spades you already know about, and of course there's the
re-enforced elevator horn. I don't know what instructions if any have been
published by Murphy on this, but you should add doublers under the skin to
help stiffen the spade-elevator junction laterally. I also put doublers on
the outside of the tip ribs to essentially make the spade and tip rib one
part. Some pics in the archive on this, I think. I brought my trim hinge
wire right out to the tip, bent it 90 deg, and made a little access hatch to
pull it out - allows removal for painting. The trim tab horn should be made
of two L shaped parts riveted together so it has a flange on both sides
(can't remember, maybe this IS standard), then add a doubler under the trim
tab skin to beef things up. Bob P had his horn break, and it was apparently
exciting.
I put a nylon washer between the outboard side of the outboard stab hinge
and elevator hinge to take up the slack and avoid metal to metal contact.
Getting the cotter pins into the hinges is a bit of a pain
Fin:
Run a piece of plastic tubing up the LE if you intend to put a VOR antenna
up there. There are no inspection covers for the hinge bolts. They have
them everywhere else. Doesn't make much sense.
Rudder:
Be sure to temporarily mount the rudder to the fin when setting the angle of
the tip spade. It may not be exactly 90 deg. This isn't in the
instructions. A hole in the lower skin of the tip spade to allow you to
install the upper rudder bolt form the top makes life easier.
I used plates with hinges along the front edge for the inspection covers on
the rudder to allow me to not to have a gap in the rivet line along the
spar. I guess it'd be OK if you riveted the inspection covers in place as
suggested by Murphy, but what use are riveted inspection covers?
Regards, Al
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Here is a list of points to note/changes for the Elite Tailfeathers:
Stab:
Not too much, other than using Tinnerman nuts for the inspection plates, and
plate nuts to secure the trim servo. The trim servo pushrod is just a piece
of threaded rod, and needs beefed up with a piece of 0.25" OD tubing slipped
over it. You need some holes and grommets in the ribs to pass the trim
servo cable through. When you come to attach the rear stab attach brackets
to the fuselage (MUCH later), install captive nuts inside the tailcone.
This way, you can install the stab before these brackets. Otherwise, its
almost impossible to install the stab after painting without scratching it
or worse. And of course, the FG tips need to be shortened to match the
elevator.
Elevator:
The tips and spades you already know about, and of course there's the
re-enforced elevator horn. I don't know what instructions if any have been
published by Murphy on this, but you should add doublers under the skin to
help stiffen the spade-elevator junction laterally. I also put doublers on
the outside of the tip ribs to essentially make the spade and tip rib one
part. Some pics in the archive on this, I think. I brought my trim hinge
wire right out to the tip, bent it 90 deg, and made a little access hatch to
pull it out - allows removal for painting. The trim tab horn should be made
of two L shaped parts riveted together so it has a flange on both sides
(can't remember, maybe this IS standard), then add a doubler under the trim
tab skin to beef things up. Bob P had his horn break, and it was apparently
exciting.
I put a nylon washer between the outboard side of the outboard stab hinge
and elevator hinge to take up the slack and avoid metal to metal contact.
Getting the cotter pins into the hinges is a bit of a pain
Fin:
Run a piece of plastic tubing up the LE if you intend to put a VOR antenna
up there. There are no inspection covers for the hinge bolts. They have
them everywhere else. Doesn't make much sense.
Rudder:
Be sure to temporarily mount the rudder to the fin when setting the angle of
the tip spade. It may not be exactly 90 deg. This isn't in the
instructions. A hole in the lower skin of the tip spade to allow you to
install the upper rudder bolt form the top makes life easier.
I used plates with hinges along the front edge for the inspection covers on
the rudder to allow me to not to have a gap in the rivet line along the
spar. I guess it'd be OK if you riveted the inspection covers in place as
suggested by Murphy, but what use are riveted inspection covers?
Regards, Al
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