The Murphy Builders Site

Talk about a horse that's been beat to death. This has always been a
problem. Everyone's intentions are good regarding identifying the model,
particularly after it comes up on the list as it has done now, but people
get caught up in an issue or topic and just plain forget to mention what
horse their riding. Bear with us. Your reminder will likely help us behave
for a while again, but we're only human and we love to lapse back into our
errant ways despite the best of intentions. Also, look carefully at the
signature area. Sometimes I have thought that the model was not identified,
then I notice the author has added the serial number to his name at the end.
I.e., I try to add "044SR" after my name. SR for Super Rebel. I've seen a
lot of serial numbers with just an "R" for Rebel. I don't even know what an
Elite serial number looks like but I think the Moose serial numbers still
use "SR". Oh, and before you ask, yes we often forget to change the Subject
line to something appropriate when the topic goes off on a tangent. Again,
we don't mean to. We're trying, but we slip up once in a while. OK, pretty
often. All right, all right, all the time. :-)

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Maxwell
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 2:40 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders]help the new member- identify your MAM model?

The differences between MAM designs, even the more subtle, can pose
difficulties when trying to follow posts on this list too, if the author
does not specify the MAM design concerned.

Several times now I have found myself diving into the drawings for my Rebel,

attempting to see what fault or modification a post is describing, only to
find the suggestion, mod or whatever relates to the Elite, Super Rebel,
Moose etc. Admittedly, the problem is less likely to arise where I have been

able to follow a thread from its start but even that is not always the case.

Could I suggest that all posts identify the MAM design they refer to, such
as Alan has done here with his clear identification of the Elite? Might
make life easier for those who need to search the archives in the future
too?

Thanks

Bill
From: "Alan Hepburn" <ahepburn@renc.igs.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] new member

Roy:

Good to have you aboard. I recently completed an Elite on Montana 2200
amphibs which you can see on either Murphy's "Completions" page or on the
Wildcat BBS. With your experience, things should go fairly smoothly, but
there are a number of pretty well essential changes in addition to those
listed on the Murphy site which you should consider before you get too far
down the road. If you do things in Murphy's recommended order, the first
you'll come up against are the width and shape of the elevator spades, the
trim tab horn attachment, and the trim tab pushrod reinforcement. Also,
it's advisable to do something other than attach the inspection covers
with
sheet metal screws (or rivets!). At least you should consider Tinnerman
nuts.

There are a number of areas where it's quite clear that Murphy did a paper
design on changes from the Rebel, but never actually built the changes
into
their prototype. I think perhaps this, and frustration over all the Rebel
stuff that's been left in the Elite manual, may be the reason who so few
Elites have been completed. An example is the length of the control
column.
As supplied, it bumps into the panel, and has to be shortened
substantially
to get adequate elevator movement. Also, people will speak quite
adamantly
about what needs to be done, based on Rebel experience only, so if you're
working on areas that differ between Rebel and Elite, treat such advice
with
suspicion.

I uploaded an Email recently with many of the possible changes listed,
which
you should be able to find. If not, I can send it again. An Elite on
floats (particularly amphibs) really needs more displacement than the
standard Murphy 1800s, and if you decide on other floats, check into float
attachment before you get too far into the fuselage. The factory rear
float
attachment point is considerably further aft than most floats require, so
you may need to do something about that. More info if interested.

Al Hepburn





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