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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by Mike Davis
Welcome to the list Roy, there is are a lot of messages about the Elite in
the archives. It's getting a bit daunting at nearly 27,000 messages now,
but use the search feature and you'll turn up a lot of good information. I
find that it's best to search the message body and not the subject, because
as a group we don't have the best record for keeping the subject accurately
reflecting the message.

So what do/did you think of the SeaRey? That's a really neat looking little
airplane.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "ROY PINNER" <roy.pinner@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] new member

Thanks for letting me join site---My name is Roy Pinner---I live in Vero
Bch, FL---Have built several home built aircraft including Sea Rey and my
latest a RV7--will try to include some photos---my latest project is
Murphy Elite on floats---would appreciate any info on Elite
project----Thanks again Roy


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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by Dave Ricker
Hi Roy

Welcome to the Elitists! There are a few of us here, you can check out our progress at www.elite583.cjb.net

Cheers,

Dave R.
Francine D.



ROY PINNER wrote:
Thanks for letting me join site---My name is Roy Pinner---I live in Vero Bch, FL---Have built several home built aircraft including Sea Rey and my latest a RV7--will try to include some photos---my latest project is Murphy Elite on floats---would appreciate any info on Elite project----Thanks again Roy

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by carol and murray cherkas
HI DAVE

When you say ELITIST"S are you talking about REBEL builders. HAHAHAHAHA



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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by N.Smith
Welcome to the group Roy

I'm doing an Elite in England - Fuselage nearly done, working on the wings
now.

Add yourself to the map - http://www.frappr.com/murphyrebel

Nigel
745E

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of ROY
PINNER
Sent: 23 February 2006 23:29
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] new member


Thanks for letting me join site---My name is Roy Pinner---I live in Vero
Bch, FL---Have built several home built aircraft including Sea Rey and my
latest a RV7--will try to include some photos---my latest project is Murphy
Elite on floats---would appreciate any info on Elite project----Thanks again
Roy



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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by Dave Ricker
Oops! I think I got confobulated there somewhere :-( LOL!

Oh well, another Rebel in the family anyhow ;-)

Dave

carol and murray cherkas wrote:
HI DAVE

When you say ELITIST"S are you talking about REBEL builders. HAHAHAHAHA



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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by Mike Betti
Welcome Roy,
This is the place to get answers. You can see my Elite at www.mikeselite.com
Mike Betti
771E
----- Original Message -----
From: "ROY PINNER" <roy.pinner@worldnet.att.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 5:28 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] new member

Thanks for letting me join site---My name is Roy Pinner---I live in Vero
Bch, FL---Have built several home built aircraft including Sea Rey and my
latest a RV7--will try to include some photos---my latest project is
Murphy Elite on floats---would appreciate any info on Elite
project----Thanks again Roy



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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by Alan Hepburn
Roy:

Good to have you aboard. I recently completed an Elite on Montana 2200
amphibs which you can see on either Murphy's "Completions" page or on the
Wildcat BBS. With your experience, things should go fairly smoothly, but
there are a number of pretty well essential changes in addition to those
listed on the Murphy site which you should consider before you get too far
down the road. If you do things in Murphy's recommended order, the first
you'll come up against are the width and shape of the elevator spades, the
trim tab horn attachment, and the trim tab pushrod reinforcement. Also,
it's advisable to do something other than attach the inspection covers with
sheet metal screws (or rivets!). At least you should consider Tinnerman
nuts.

There are a number of areas where it's quite clear that Murphy did a paper
design on changes from the Rebel, but never actually built the changes into
their prototype. I think perhaps this, and frustration over all the Rebel
stuff that's been left in the Elite manual, may be the reason who so few
Elites have been completed. An example is the length of the control column.
As supplied, it bumps into the panel, and has to be shortened substantially
to get adequate elevator movement. Also, people will speak quite adamantly
about what needs to be done, based on Rebel experience only, so if you're
working on areas that differ between Rebel and Elite, treat such advice with
suspicion.

I uploaded an Email recently with many of the possible changes listed, which
you should be able to find. If not, I can send it again. An Elite on
floats (particularly amphibs) really needs more displacement than the
standard Murphy 1800s, and if you decide on other floats, check into float
attachment before you get too far into the fuselage. The factory rear float
attachment point is considerably further aft than most floats require, so
you may need to do something about that. More info if interested.

Al Hepburn





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[rebel-builders] new member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:26 am
by ROY PINNER
Thanks Al---Would you mind sending me letter with changes---I am starting
stab and would like input on pitch --does it need to be softened ? Roy

-------Original Message-------

From: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: 02/25/06 16:20:50
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] new member

Roy:

Good to have you aboard. I recently completed an Elite on Montana 2200
amphibs which you can see on either Murphy's "Completions" page or on the
Wildcat BBS. With your experience, things should go fairly smoothly, but
there are a number of pretty well essential changes in addition to those
listed on the Murphy site which you should consider before you get too far
down the road. If you do things in Murphy's recommended order, the first
you'll come up against are the width and shape of the elevator spades, the
trim tab horn attachment, and the trim tab pushrod reinforcement. Also,
it's advisable to do something other than attach the inspection covers with
sheet metal screws (or rivets!). At least you should consider Tinnerman
nuts.

There are a number of areas where it's quite clear that Murphy did a paper
design on changes from the Rebel, but never actually built the changes into
their prototype. I think perhaps this, and frustration over all the Rebel
stuff that's been left in the Elite manual, may be the reason who so few
Elites have been completed. An example is the length of the control column.
As supplied, it bumps into the panel, and has to be shortened substantially
to get adequate elevator movement. Also, people will speak quite adamantly
about what needs to be done, based on Rebel experience only, so if you're
working on areas that differ between Rebel and Elite, treat such advice with
suspicion.

I uploaded an Email recently with many of the possible changes listed, which
you should be able to find. If not, I can send it again. An Elite on
floats (particularly amphibs) really needs more displacement than the
standard Murphy 1800s, and if you decide on other floats, check into float
attachment before you get too far into the fuselage. The factory rear float
attachment point is considerably further aft than most floats require, so
you may need to do something about that. More info if interested.

Al Hepburn





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[rebel-builders] New Member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:06 pm
by Darryl Conway
I would highly suggest the 3500 upgrades if available. At the very least,
upgrade/strengthen the main gear box area and the lower tail section. I've been
able to compare the differences between the 2500 and the 3500 during the build
of both and I'm glad my 3500 has more 'stuff' there, to be simple about it. The
tail section mods are a combination of after market parts (from Dale Fultz) and
suggestions from former MAM employees and other 3500/Moose owners. I've not had
any hard landings, but there has been a bounce or two. Okay, maybe a few more
than that, which just reinforced to me how glad I am for the extra strength in
the area of the main gear box.





________________________________
From: "paul.lennemann@dcsol.com" <paul.lennemann@dcsol.com>
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Sent: Mon, October 18, 2010 1:06:05 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] New Member

Hello to all. I just purchased kit #074SR, still in the box. Now I am finding
out about all the questions I should have asked in the beginning. It is a
2500, trike. At this time, I am thinking 4 seats, lyc 540, floats down the line

at some point. I have heard; dump the nose wheel, get the 3500 upgrade
from the factory, the 2500 is fine and I don't need the 3500 upgrade, make
darn sure I do all the factory bulletins, strongly consider something called the

Ontario Mods, hoerner wing tips, vg's and stainless steel firewalls. At this
point, I'd appreciate all advice so I can sort it out as I inventory the kit.
Thanks.



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[rebel-builders] New Member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:06 pm
by Jerald Folkerts
Paul,
Welcome. My name is Jerry Folkerts and I am just beginning to build
kit #075SR (next in line), still in the box, which I purchased new. Murphy
held it for me while I was overseas, and I took delivery in 2000, but then
promptly went overseas again. I am now retired from the AF and a second
career, and am putting the final touches on a workshop to build the SR 2500.
I will anxiously be watching your questions/replies.
Best
Jerry

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
paul.lennemann@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:06 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] New Member

Hello to all. I just purchased kit #074SR, still in the box. Now I am
finding
out about all the questions I should have asked in the beginning. It is a
2500, trike. At this time, I am thinking 4 seats, lyc 540, floats down the
line
at some point. I have heard; dump the nose wheel, get the 3500 upgrade
from the factory, the 2500 is fine and I don't need the 3500 upgrade, make
darn sure I do all the factory bulletins, strongly consider something called
the
Ontario Mods, hoerner wing tips, vg's and stainless steel firewalls. At
this
point, I'd appreciate all advice so I can sort it out as I inventory the
kit.
Thanks.



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[rebel-builders] New Member

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:06 pm
by Jerald Folkerts
In the process of retrieving my kit from my hangar in Virginia, I also
unpacked my construction manual. My SR 2500 kit was #093, not #075 as I
previously wrote.
Regards,
Jerry Folkerts

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerald Folkerts [mailto:jfolkerts1@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 10:05 PM
To: 'rebel-builders@dcsol.com'
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] New Member

Paul,
Welcome. My name is Jerry Folkerts and I am just beginning to build
kit #075SR (next in line), still in the box, which I purchased new. Murphy
held it for me while I was overseas, and I took delivery in 2000, but then
promptly went overseas again. I am now retired from the AF and a second
career, and am putting the final touches on a workshop to build the SR 2500.
I will anxiously be watching your questions/replies.
Best
Jerry

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
paul.lennemann@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:06 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] New Member

Hello to all. I just purchased kit #074SR, still in the box. Now I am
finding
out about all the questions I should have asked in the beginning. It is a
2500, trike. At this time, I am thinking 4 seats, lyc 540, floats down the
line
at some point. I have heard; dump the nose wheel, get the 3500 upgrade
from the factory, the 2500 is fine and I don't need the 3500 upgrade, make
darn sure I do all the factory bulletins, strongly consider something called
the
Ontario Mods, hoerner wing tips, vg's and stainless steel firewalls. At
this
point, I'd appreciate all advice so I can sort it out as I inventory the
kit.
Thanks.



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